Due to poor running conditions upon heavy acceleration, I asked my trusted mechanic to replace plugs on 2003 Volvo S40 1.9L turbo. He did, and reported that old plugs were shot and ill-gapped, and also suggested that I replace coils. I was hoping to do this myself and would like a little guidance before buying and attempting said repair.
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I need a new alternator as well (2006 S40, 2.4ti, 80K miles) and the lowest quote I'm getting is $875. The dealer wants $950, an independent mechanic I trust quoted $930. You would think they could replace the part without all the extra nonsense -- in most other cars, they probably could. Volvo has made it unnecesarily difficult with the way they've designed this car. This is the first and last Volvo I will ever purchase.
The mechanic who quoted $875 also said he has someone in town who could replace the non-working parts of my current alternator and get it working again for about $575. But I wouldn't have a car for 2 full days.
the may be caused by a misfire,the first thing to do is scan the computer for any stored codes as these codes can help a great deal, so start with the scanning first, auto zone and some other part stores will scan it for free ,just write down the codes and we will go from there.
Overheating ignition coils can be due to a number of causes. The symptoms are always the same though: poor or non-existent hot engine starting and rough running and misfiring whilst running.
The first is simply due to age: if it's traditional "wet" coil filled with transformer oil, then the oil can either leak out or simply break down with age. If so, the fix is simply to replace it and there are often modern compatible dry resin coils which do away with the oil filling completely. Dry resin coils can also fail with age or hard use, but it's far less common than with wet coils. A failing coil which usually works perfectly well be over-stressed if the vehicle is left idling for long periods on a hot day, such as during summer traffic jams. In such conditions, the coil will usually recover if the engine is turned off allowing the coil to cool down, but the damage caused by overheating is cumulative and the coil will become increasingly prone to overheating.
The second most common cause is a poorly tuned engine (if the vehicle is equipped with a distributor). If the ignition timing is incorrect or if the points gap has lessened due to wear then the coil can be energised for too long and will overheat. Note that the points gap and distributor timing are related: if the points are replaced or re-gapped, then the timing MUST be checked and reset both statically (engine not running, turned over by hand) and dynamically (engine running). Incorrect timing can also be down to a faulty or non-functional ignition advance and ****** mechanism. If you do not have ignition contact points, then there may be a fault with the electronic ignition module within the distributor.
If the vehicle has completely electronic ignition with no distributor then it's possible for faulty components to cause overheating coil. Most incorporate a variable dwell feature which prevents the coil from overheating when the engine is idling for extended periods. But I suspect this does not apply to your vehicle as you refer to a singular coil rather than the multiple (dry resin) coil packs mounted directly atop the spark plugs as per modern fully electronic ignitions. In any case, diagnosis of a fault with this set up requires electronic diagnostic tools.
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could be one of your o2 sensors ,coil pack on your spark plugs could be them,clogged catalytic convertor pretty hard to dtermine could be these.hook it up to scanner to make sure it should give you code
ok everyone not trying to be unappreciative of your input and ideas however only w couple of you are even looking in the right area. generaly when your check engine light comes on its telling you your car is misfiring (obviously). its basically a caution light not so much a stop pull over and run type of light. yes you can damage your cat over a prolonged amount of time with no repair. so my thoughts on this are that is has to be the ignition coils. I drive a 90 vw and a 96 monte carlo. i just recently had this issue with my monte and first thing i did was replace the coil packs (ignition coils). result...light went out and not flashing or anything and perfermance is restored, all is well and it runs great. give that a shot, im 98% sure that will take care of your problem, and in your s40 there should be 2 coil packs, typically only one is bad but im that type of guy who doesnt wanna worry about the other one at all so i just replaced them all. they're typically around $50 each. my monte was $36 for 1 and there are 3. your s40 will only have 2 and there located directly under the plastic cover on top of the motor. hope this helps, good luck and dont waste your time searching in the wrong placed, check engine lights are usually sensors of an ignition misfire so if your not sure which one then just limp the car down to autozone and have them plug it in for free.
Volvo is a good car. if you maintain you volvo by changing the oil on time, maybe after every month according to how you drive and changing you fuel filter, using 93 grade fuel or 89. I advice you to keep your volve. do your oil change on time don't wait until three to five months before changing your oil and don't use poor fuel (87) grade. change your tranmission oil after 18 months then your volvo is yours for life.