In 2008,My 98' Ford Windstar has a spongy brake. It is 3.8 engine with ABS. Replaced master cylinder to start with; new brake line, new brake pad,no oil leake, but air mixed oil in brake line after bleeding 3 times by the mechanic. went to a Ford dealership, using computer bled, no help. the third autoshop checked and bled again, no help.
early in year 2009, brake oil almost run out and filled up, then need no more brake oil after that. the rear drum squeeze sound when brakes.
the car is hard to stop esp. when the ABS and or the track green light is on. the rubber brake line extentionn looks fine.
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you need a new master cyclinder..you needed to open the brake line before you forced the caliper back in ,,,otherwise you force the fliud the wrong way though the master cylinder and ruin the internals
Check your parking brake. if it goes down to the floor or does not hold, then your back brakes needs adjusted. bad master cylinders bleed off slowly to the floor while pushing on the brake pedal. If you need assistance on adjusting let me know.
thats odd. Adding brake fluid shouldn't have kicked on the ABS light..
Low brake fluid would cause your RED parking brake light to come on not the orange ABS light (unless thats what you mean. if thats the case its normal for that light to come on with low fluid. in this case check the brake lines starting to the master cylinder and the components at the wheels to make sure there is no leaks if you go HERE complained about your situation and also noticed a leak on the bottom of the master cylinder (hazardous in more than 1 way) )
not sure of the component locations under the hood of the windstar but check to see if you were bumping wires on the ABS control module when you were putting brake fluid in. may be a loose connection that jiggles loose when you drive.
otherwise it might need a new ABS control module or maybe moisture in one of the components.
Does sound like you need a new master cylinder. On a 2000 you wont need to back bleed. You will just need to follow the instruction and bleed the master and all four points. you will probably need to bleed the ABS block and proportioning valve but only if they have bleeders on them.
have you check? the master cylinder. sometine when you get the rotors cut they dont come out right because they may be warped or to thin. if you did the job yourself you might have put the calipers in on the wrong side. this happens alot . if your rotors front and rear are fine then switch the calipers to the other side.
No need to run the engine. Start the bleed procedure from the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, and work toward it. This means bleed the passenger rear first, then the driver rear, then passenger front, then driver front. Don't stop bleeding any caliper until you get three or so consecutive streams of air-free fluid through the bleeder. Monitor the level of fluid in the cylinder, and be sure the cap is on while bleeding - only open it to add additional fluid as needed.