Question about 2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI
I have a 02 Jetta 2.0L GL. The check engine light is on and I have been told that I need to replace the Leak Detection pump, the Secondary Air Outlet hose, and the Combination valve to the tune of $1000.00. I dont mind doing the work howeber, the Haynes manual that I have is seriously deficient. How do I replace these parts? Do I need any special tools? Do I really need to replace all these parts?
06a131351d: 06a131137,:ij0906201b are the part numbers respectively.
most of the time basis had tools.... 15 to 18 mm nut on tensioner pulley?or maybe just a ratchet? most cars are easy if unsure any farther your local quick lube maybe able to help When I managed one we helped people all the time it was good for repeat bis....
Posted on Aug 07, 2009
Bring the car into a repair shop and have them pressure test it for leaks or you can purchase a pressure tester make sure you get the appropriate adapter for your cars radiator filler neck or resovoir, and check for leaks yourself. Make sure the car is cold and there is the appropriate mixtiure of coolant and water in the system, prior to pressure testing. Also do a visual inspection of the cooling system when the vehicle is cold and look for leaks.
Posted on Apr 15, 2010
the air pump is located on the engine towards the front of the vehicle and has apx. 3/4 diameter pipes running to and from it. it is apx. 2 fists in size and it is black plastic. one of the lines on top of the air pump runs to the other side of the engine towards the firewall. at the other end of that pipe is the valve. disconnect that pipe while the vehicle is running. no air out of the pipe means bad pump. air coming out of the pipe means bad valve
Posted on Feb 13, 2011
SOURCE: I have a 2001 Jetta
The P0412 code sounds like an electrical concern for one of the air injection valves. That may require some diagnosis that a reputable shop can provide.
As far as the P0455 goes, you may be able to remedy that yourself- is the gas cap loose or incorrectly seated? If the gas cap is seated and clicked all the way on and the rubber seal on the underside of the cap is not cracking, there may be a line disconnected somewhere, or a failing vent.
Also note- if the gas cap IS loose, and is the reason the 'check engine' light came on, tightening the cap won't turn the light off immediately. The vehicle's on board computer needs to run its normal test on the EVAP system and verify there is no longer a leak. This kind of test is run by the on-board computer while you're driving. If it sees that the leak is no longer present, the light will turn off by itself. It could take one day or even one month before the light goes out depending on how much you drive. Or you could clear the code if you have a code reader or a scan tool.
Posted on Aug 08, 2011
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