- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ? It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only. Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?
fill master cylinder, start at right rear. the way I do it is make sure cap is back on master cylinder. pump the brakes a few times then hold them. have another person open the bleeder valve at the tires until brakes go to floor. hold them down until bleeder is retightened but be sure master cylinder is not out of fluid. then go to left rear and do the same procedure, then right front, then left front. check fluid and if air is all out there should be brakes. good-day ! THIS IS HOW I HAVE ALWAYS DONE IT ! heres a little trick of sorts. you can change a master cylinder, and if you bench bleed it first. and no fluid is lost from the master cylinder lines you do not need to bleed the whole system. but make sure cylinder is full of fluid before putting on vehicle and all air is out of master cylinder.
Your master cylinder in front and rear. Drive your car to an empty lot to a bare spot and push hard on the brakes. Look for brake fluid starting to drip on the ground. Also look on the back side of your tires to look for brake fluid tracking due to a a slow leak.
you have a power steering leak either the pump itself or one of the power steering hoses has a hole in it.the low brake fluid light is probably the fluid sensor in the master cylinder providing the fluid level is not low.the sensors tend to stick and need to be tapped or pushed with your finger until it frees itself.
1- New master cylinders could also fail, possibly due to bad quality replacement parts or maybe even just a factory fault on a good quality master cylinder.
2- If you had blown a rear wheel cylinder, you most deffinatly should still have had a form of front brakes. the reason for this is as follows... For this very saftey meassure manufactures design the container for the brake fluid supplying the master cylinder in two internally, so this would mean that if you where to drain all the brake fluid through the rear wheel cylinders an acceptable amount of brake fluid should still remain within the one compartment of the reservoir for the front brakes to still opperate.
3- Leaking rear wheel cylinders should have been noticed by the technician who installed the master cylinder, the reason for this is because the brake fluid would have had to be bled through the system at each wheel. even though it would have been performed from the back of the wheel one would expect the technician to notice the brake fluid dripping out behind the brake drum.
check your front brake pads and see if they need replaced then check your brake fluid after you change them. If you add brake fluid first you will leak brake fluid out when you compress the calipers to change the front brake pads. In the end make sure your brake master cylinder is full of dot 3 brake fluid before you drive.
usually an indicator of either a loss of pressure due to low fluid and/or air in the system (brake fluid leak) or extremely worn rear brakes (if drum brakes in rear). possible causes include master cylinder (internal fluid pressure leak), external fluid leaks (calipers, lines, wheel cylinders), rear drum brakes extremely worn down or severely out of adjustment. normally worn disc brakes may reduce pedal height SOME, but seldom "to floor". but the "mushy" quote combined with the "floor" quote suggests a hydrolic fluid pressure problem.
typically if you pump the brakes and it gets harder by each pump the master cylinder is good.Check all calipers for leaks,and rubber hoses..still no signs of leaks then open the bleeder screws on both front calipers and let them drip for about 15 minutes,and keeping the resivoir full of fluid..tighten the bleeders and pump them up..hopefully they work and all it was is a little air in them still.
As the brake pads/shoes wear. Fluid level will decrease in the master cylinder resovoir. If the master cylinder ran empty you will need to refill with appropriate brake fluid (should say DOT 3 on cap) and bleed air from the system.
if you can see a good amount of wet brake fluid between the brake master cylinder and the brake booster. and you have been adding fliud often,you could have a bad master cylinder. it has to be replaced not rebuilt. you however may have a far more common problem, a rusted through brake line.have someone pump the brake pedal, than look under the car for a brake fluid leak ,repair as needed. than bleed the brakes for a good hard brake pedal
good luck chris