Wont crank-all lights,radio & acces. work-it did push start

check tightness,clean battery terminals,or inline fusable link next to the positive cable,

what tranny> ,
we cant guess that but the Push deal says, manual.
so the clutch switch is bad, or maladjusted.
if the starter hot wire check works then the key line is dead.
if the hot wire fails. at the solenoid then starter is bad, or battery low.
takes 5-10 amps to push start a car, but 100 amps to crank it.
big diffr that.
why skip the jumper cable start of a running other car.
this tells the most. (remove 2 systems from cause battery and charge system) its first,. just like the AAA tow guys.

I will try to help, powell. Your start circuit from battery to ignition switch to starter-and back to battery. You may need to check every thing here, including the grounds, for a loose connection, or just possibly a failing part.
If only complaint is intermittent starter action, and no other problems with ignition switch, let's assume switch is good, so battery to ignition switch is good. Now from the switch, a yellow start wire goes to the instrument panel fuse block, to "crank" fuse #8 (10 amp), from there a purple wire goes to the safety switch. If manual it is a clutch pedal position switch (simple on/off switch-when clutch down switch is on). If automatic, purple wire goes to Transmission Range Switch on the transm.-in park or neutral the purple wire has continuity in and out of switch.
From that switch, the purple wire goes to the starter relay (under hood fuse-relay center). Now the relay: purple wire in start will energize the relay- wire goes to coil side of relay, and then coil side goes to ground. On relay power side, the power feed is a red wire-and it is the same red wire that initially sends power to the ignition switch. A 40 amp fuse in fuse-relay center sends power to ignition switch, and a splice goes to the starter relay as the power feed for relay. When relay is energized, contacts close, and power is sent from relay to the starter solenoid, again on a purple wire. When solenoid contacts close, starter motor is connected to the big battery cable on the starter.

There is your start circuit. try a new or different relay, try a new or test the clutch switch (or transm. range switch). Buy a $5 test light and use it to check where power is lost when starter won't operate. Hold key in start and check if fuse #8 is getting power. Check the safety switch, with key held in start, the purple wire should be hot. Check if relay has a power feed (pull relay out and check terminals) and if relay coil has a power signal in start. Check the relay's coil side ground. If that ground is intermittent, relay won't work.
When it won't start, use a test light, you should be able to find it.
Good luck.

yea the main relay but first check your grounds a lose or corroded wire will cause that and theres a starter relay switch good luck

Hello! Do you hear a click when the key is turned?...If no click is heard either the ignition key, the Crank relay, the starter, or the battery are suspect...Having lights and radio does not mean the battery is capable of running a starter motor......Put a meter on the battery...should read 12.5 volts...Turn key...Does voltage drop to 8 or 9 volts? Bad battery...If all is well with battery and connections to it...Check the starter fuse # 33 in the under hood fuse/relay box...If the fuse is good that click you should hear is from the Crank Relay in that box...If all of the above is OK connect your meter to the Purple wire that is connected to the starter motor...When the key is turned 12 volts must be on that wire...If there is the starter motor is defective...So, #1...Do you hear a click when key is turned...That would point at a bad starter or weak battery...#2...If you do not hear a click bad fuse #33, bad Crank Relay, bad ignition switch...#3...If fuse is good Bad Crank Relay or Ignition switch; Crank Relay is a low cost item ($10)...Replace Relay...Stop there and send a comment as to results...Guru...saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

Fuse #15 "BACK UP/ACC" (40 Amp) in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box
protects the circuits leading to Fuse #7 "BACKUP" (7.5 Amp) in the Underhood
Fuse/Relay Box and also fuses (#5 "RADIO" (10 Amp), #6 "INTR LIGHT" (7.5 Amp),
#7 "BACK UP" (7.5 Amp), #8 "not used", and #9 "FR ACC SOCKET (10 Amp)
in the Driver's Fuse/Relay Box.
To further narrow down the source of your draw, pull each of these fuses one at a time.
No, that was not a "typo" There are 2 fuses marked "BACK UP" and are both 7.5 Amp and one is
in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box and the other is in the Driver's Fuse/Relay Box. (I checked this 3 times just to make sure.)

Hi, diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit.

Ten Reasons why you car won't start..

1. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
2. Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
3. Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
4. Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
5. Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
6. Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
7. Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
8. Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
9. Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
10. Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Hope it helps identify and solve the problem

First check your fuse links, then check and see if you get current to the starter when the key is turned. If not you need to check the clutch safety switch and the ignition switch in that order. One of these switches are bad or a wire is broken.

I don't think so. I got a 95 and I've done all kinds of electrical checking for various things and to my knowledge there isn't. There's fuses for the ignition and engine along with other electrical items but no specific computer fuse that would turn off a computer. I assume the car won't start?

If your car is simply not starting it could be something as simple as the neutral safety switch if you only hear a click turning the key. Disconnect under left side dash. White and has a green and black wire coming from button behind clutch pedal.

If car cranks but just wont start then could be numerous things. Check the 30 and 40 amp fuses under hood. Make sure battery terminals are connected tight and clean with brush tool if needed. If battery is fine and charged, I assume you have checked, then I'd focus on the ignition system.

ignition switch (in steering column)
neutral safety switch (disconnect above pedal)
starter relay (under radio)
starter solenoid
starter

If cranks then neutral, ignition and relay switches are fine
If clicks then ignition and relay fine but neutral switch or solenoid may be bad

Here are the numbers on your fuseblock and fuses coresponding to the number that is on your fuse block.
1-20 amp (yellow)
Hazard flasher
2-10 amp (red)
back up lights, A/C clutch cycling Switch
3-30 amp (green)
Power windows
4-30 amp (yellow)
A/C or heater blower motor
5-20 amp (yellow)
Panel Lights, Side marker lights, Park, Taillights, Clock & radio display Intensity, License & panel lights.
#6-10 amp (red)
Stoplight, buzzers, Anti-lock brake module
#7-15 amp (lt. Blue)
Tachometer, horn & Relay
#8-8 amp (yellow)
Power Door locks
#9-10 amp (red)
Radio
#10-10 amp (red)
Rear Wheel Anti-lock module, Turn Signals
#11-20 amp (Yellow)
Windshield wiper & washers
#12-15 amp ( LT. Blue)
Cigarette Lighter
#13-5 amp (tan)
Speed Control, warning buzzers, gauges, indicator lights
#14-5 amp (tan)
Time/delay relay & under-hood light, dome light, power mirrors, readio & clock Memory, Interior lights, reading lights
#15-blank
Not used
#16-4 amp (pink)
Radio Lights & overdrive switch light 1989-91, Cluster lights, Cigarette Lighter light & as tray light, Cluster lights, A/C & heater controls.
#17-relay
Hazard Flasher warning
#18-relay
Relay
#19-Circuit breaker
#20-relay
Turn signal Flasher
#21-buzzer
Warning
#22-Relay
Horn