It could be that the horn needs to be replaced or a fuse or a relay not working also check the horn button on steering wheel, but start with the fuse first then check the horn by wireing it directly to battery [this willbe noisey]
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so fortunately for you the ford laser and the mazda 323 are one in the same. i would refer to this video to see if you can get a full walkthrough of how the process works. below are two links the first is the video the second is a google search with multiple links may be helpful to you as well. Water Pump Timing Belt Replacement Mazda 323Google
You hear clicking at horns, and not the relay? Maybe the horns went bad, or maybe you need to check and clean the connections there. Don\'t know why the cab light went dim, unless the horn wire was trying to make contact? Yes, TJ, the horn wire should be hot. You are grounding that hot wire when you press for the horn. That hot wire comes from the coil side of the horn relay. Press for horn, it grounds the coil side of relay, and the relay can pass power to the horns. Now back to the clicking no-honker horns: power gets to the horns when relay is energized, and there has to be a good ground for horns to work. I don\'t know if your horns are case grounded or a wire from horns goes to ground, but check the ground there. If case grounded, pull horns off and clean the ground. Also might try a known good horn. Keep at it, sounds like you are almost there.
your horn button and wiring is ground for the coil side of horn relay, usually. My guess is problem with horn wiring in steering column, maybe a clock-spring issue? I saw two different years listed for your vehicle? It may not make any difference?
First, hook a test light to the power wire on the horn, push the horn button, and see if you have power there. If you have power, the problem is the horn itself. Maybe even run a jumper wire to the horn, and see if it will blow. Sometimes with these older trucks, it just as easy to change the whole steering column as it is to find the problem. (if you can get a column from an auto wrecker cheap) It will likely be a broken wire in the column somewhere, ususally near where it tilts.
0.10 - 0.15mm inlet 0.18 - 0.23mm exhaust but you must be carefull because the top of the valve seat becomes concave from wear, a feeler guage will not give the most accurate reading, hope i have been of some hel
you'll have to reset the timing marks on cam and crank, check no1 is at TDC, and look at distrubuter to make sure it firing on no1.
if you split the hydraulic line, you'll have to bleed the line.
good luck. cheers !