Question about 1998 Lexus Gs 400

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Brake low pedal

My 1998 GS 400.[95000 mi] has a long pedal movement, almost to the floor. The pads are ok. I was told this could be the pins that the calipers need cleaning and grease, Huh, can this be so?

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Many vechicals required maintenance to the brakes. Check your fuilds, usually pedel to floor means lack of fluids and also air in your break lines. Try cleaning grease your pins get the condition up to par. While you have the wheels off have a friend pump the brakes pedal and leave pedal to the floor Bleed your brake line one at a time there is a screw on the caliper release (usually on japan car 10mm screw) and tighten back up repeat proccess two times to brakes all around. Make you should you have brake fuild on hand buy the big bottle DOT3. If this process doesn't help than your would need to replace the master cyclinder, and booster

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

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Hi, after bleeding my daewoo cielo brakes 1998 model still the pad is no longer going down


Do you mean pads or pedal?

If pads are stuck, either in disk, or off disk, then you ok need to remove caliper and ensure the pads and pin are free and not stuck or catching, this preventing movement.

If pedal isn't moving perhaps another rebleed would be worth trying. If they are stuck have you tried moving the car at all? My motorbike gets a rock hard lever till it rolls, as the pads aren't returning as they should, but the tiny variation in disk run out pushed them back. A good service of the calipers should allow easy return.

Obviously if this problem existed before the brakes were bled, then it's unrelated to the bless and likely to be the calipers or pads sticking, or something more involved with the master cyclinder or brake servo/assist systems etc, ie fluid isn't returning to the master cyclinder, this locking on the brakes.

May 29, 2015 | Daewoo Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

2005 Camry. Having difficulty when I apply brakes. Pedal goes almost to floor. Eventually stops. Had brake pads, drums and calipers checked, they seem fine. Any suggestions ?


Low brake pedal almost always indicates a compromised hydraulic system. Check you brake fluid level. If it is ok and you haven't had anything replaced in the brake hydraulics system lately, such as a wheel cylinder or brake caliper, then the primary suspect is the master cylinder.

Jan 02, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Brake pedal goes to floor


for the pedal to go to the floor there is still air in the brake system. Start again starting from the longest line bleeding each in turn to the shortest line . make sure you have adjusted up the rear brakes before bleeding as every time you press on the pedal the shoes expand right out and when you take your foot off the pedal the shoes go all the way back in. adjust them manually and do not rely on the self adjuster as it only adjusts on wheel movement

Jul 15, 2013 | 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac

1 Answer

1992 F250 460 cid automatic 2w drive 85000 mi. Just replaced my master cylinder, all 4 brakes, and both front rotors. Afterward I blead the brakes and got bubbles out of fluid. Problem is : when not...


There is never a test or reason to pump your brakes

Accomplishes absolutely nothing.

There is no pressure in a braking system at all,
until you SLOWLY apply the brake pedal.

Then less than 1" off movement in the master cyl,
will develop 600 to 1800 lbs at the wheels

Release the brake pedal, the system goes to zero,
IT DOES NOT HOLD ANY PRESSURE

To answer your question

You not suppost to press the pedal hard
The saying goes--you apply the brakes,
not force the pedal arm and pin into the
vacuum booster, as though you want to damage it

When your driving what happens ?
You have higher manifold vacuum and
thus your pedal is normal,why the VACUUM
brake booster

Mar 31, 2011 | 1992 Ford F250

1 Answer

I have a 98 expedition and when I press on the brake pedal it almost hits the floor and the braking is scary. There doesn't seem to be any brake fluid leaking anywhere.


Sounds like there is air in the brake system and or the brakees need replacing check your brake pads if ok have the brake system bled.

Jan 28, 2011 | 1998 Ford Expedition

2 Answers

1994 dodge 2500 diesel. Put remanfactored calipers and new hoses on the front of this truck. Now I have a soft pedal that if held fades to the floor. Thought the master cyl must have a leak in it. Replaced...


Hi,
sound as if you really do have a problem!
From your description I presume that you are confident in doing your own work?
The quickest way to check your system is to use brake hose clamps to isolate each section of the braking system. I would suggest that you rent or buy a set of the clamps.

Put the truck on axle stands and make sure it's safely secured. ]
If possible have an assistant to sit in the cab and depress the brake pedal on your instructions.
Place a brake hose clamp on both front brake hoses and the rear axle hose.
Depress the brake pedal firmly.
The pedal should have minimum movement, and be rock-solid and you should not be able to depress it further.
If the pedal does go down when you apply it, the likely reason is that the Brake Master Cyl is by-passing internally, ie, only one section is active.

You stated that the M/C had been replaced. so we shall presume that the brake pedal is rock hard.
Go to the rear brake hose clamp and release it. Instruct your assistant to depress the brake pedal. If the brake pedal moves a significant distance, then (a) your rear brake shoes require adjustment (b) rhere is a leaking brake cyl, (check for brake fluid in the drum) or (c) you have a "lazy' or a piston (s) which have siezed during a brake actuation. That problem will require removing the rear brake drums for further inspection. Not the problem? Then adjust the rear brakes if required, then depress the brake pedal again. The downward travel should now be noticeably reduced.

If all is well at the rear brakes. refit the brake hose clamp. Go to the passengers side front brake and have your assistant apply the footbrake. Pedal rockhard/minimun movement? Release the brake hose clamp whilst your assist has pressure on the pedal. spin the front wheel by hand, and note if (a) the brake pedal has excessive downward travel. (b) the brake pads are contacting the brake disc, (the wheel will cease rotating and you will hear the pads contact the disc.)

Pedal displays limited downward travel and pads contact disc? Refit the brake hose clamp and go to drivers side brake and follow the same procedure. If the pedal has excessive downward travel then you have found your inital problem.

If releasing both front brake hose clamps results in excessive brake pedal travel, then the problem will be easier to address if you deal with one side first, complete the resolution, test by using the brake hose clamps, then start / complete the other faulty brake.

Whichever side you start to work on, be methodical, boring as it sounds.
remove the road wheel, but before doing so, place a hand on the top and bottom of the tyre and rock the wheel away from you and check the bearing play. If memory serves me correctly, that year Dodge has the discs in one piece with the hub.

You have removed the wheel. Now, have your assistant turn the steering onto full right lock. Before continuing, I would like to remind you that the vehicle is up on axle stands and you have secured it safely, in order to conform with accepted safety parameters, correct?

The steering is now on full right lock and you can see both disc pads. Now, very carefully check the position of the caliper in relation to the disc pads. Is there and equal spacing on each side? Now, have your assistant release the brake pedal and very carefully observe the travel of the disc pad pistons. They should retract and the hub should turn freely by hand. A very light drag is allowed between disc pad and disc, but it should NOT be discernible when you rotate the hub by hand.

With no pressure on the brake pedal, and using an appropriate tool, attempt to have the caliper pistons retract into their cylinders / bores. Completed? Use caution as it is very easy to break / damage a disc by using undue force when retracting the pistons.

There is now an obvious gap between disc pads and disc (or rotor..sorry) Now, carefully check that the pad guide pins are not deformed and that the pads ride easily on them. if a pad jams when the brakes are applied, then, when the piston retracts, when force is removed from the brake pedal. There is an appreciable gap to close, upon the next application of the brakes!

Some types of disc pad retaining /guide pins are a tight fit, and it is very easy to tilt a pad when fitting the pins, causing the disc pad to fail to retract fully, and again, displayed by a brake pedal with excessive travel.

When the brake pedal is applied, the brake fluid has to fill the caliper piston bores, then exert pressure on the piston to force it against the disc pads, and they in turn are forced into contact with the disc. If the piston has to move an appreciable distance before contacting the disc pad, that takes more brake fluid to fill the bore of the piston, and the master cylinder piston has to travel further,resulting in a brake pedal that displays excessive travel .

I notice that you did not mention the type of effort or number of applications of the brake pedal which resulted in a firm pedal.

If you fitted replacement calipers, can I presume that you fitted new guide pins to the calipers?
Last but not least, (a) are they the correct calipers for the vehicle as regards piston bore size? The brake Master cyl will not be able to fill the bores of the calipers with enough fluid to drive the pistons out to apply the disc pads, if the bores are oversized. The pedal will also display excessive travel.
(b) If the brake master cyl is overfilled, when the brakes are applied, the master cyl will force fluid to the calipers, expand the caliper pistons, but will be unable to release the application to the pistons due to the fluid being unable to return to the master cyl as the allotted reservoir space has been filled with static fluid. When the brake pedal is depressed again, the Master cyl cannot service the caliper pistons on the first stroke as the pistons are locked at full stroke / travel in the bores, resulting in the brake pedal going to the floor, or giving that impression.
HOWEVER, that condition, if the vehicle is driven any distance, will result in the obvious odor of overheated disc brake pads, and the vehicle struggling to display any state of acceleration.
(c) Are they in fact the correct disc brake pads? It would be wise to remove a guide / retainer pin and check for free movement of the pad on the remaining pin. All ok, then refit the pin which you removed and test again. The pads have to be free to move on the pins, and thus align themselves with the face of the disc / rotor when the brakes are applied. Some people coat the pins with never-seeze or hi-temp grease when fitting them, others prefer them to be dry.

In closing, I would recommend that you check the full travel AND RETRACTION of the caliper pistons in their respective bores. It is not unknown for re-built / new parts to be defective.

It would be interesting to hear if any of the above proved to be beneficial in resolving your problem.

Jan 27, 2011 | 1994 Dodge Ram

3 Answers

When i step on the brakes there is a noise coming from under the hood and it makes the headlights flicker lightly. I have a 1998 pontiac grand am. the brake peddle has too much travel unless you pump it....


Sounds like a bad relay somewhere that is causing the problem . some of these cars use a 5 pin relay system that one thing turns on and at the same time swithes something else off ......have someone check the relays under the fuse pannel in engine compartment

Aug 17, 2010 | 1998 Pontiac Grand Am

3 Answers

2001 kia sportage soft brake pedel still doing a complete brake job same as before changing the calipers/pads/ shoes /master cylinder /brake cylinders rear/ bleeding comp. system ? ANY HELP .yet the low...


hi from the uk have had this problem on a customers car b4 who had replaced frot calipers and pads and pedal went to floor on inspection of caliper i found that the steel spring clip that fits into two holes in the front face of caliper and must also locate behind the caliper carrierbehind two lugs was fitted incorrectly it had been fitted behind the outer pad resulting in when brake pedal off ?the caliper being floating type as it is known because it is fixed by two screw pins/bolts and moves on these pins/bolts as pads wear ? what happens is the spring fitted wrongly ? actually pushes against the outer pad and as a result the caliper piston is pushed back into its cylinder slightly as it moves on the locating pins/bolts resulting in pedal going to floor on 1st application but if pumped ? some brake pedal force is felt but is lost again when pedal released ? so try this ? remove the steel clips from both front calipers that retain caliper to carriers then press brake/pump pedal ? if as suggested above works? your pedal should pump up and remain ok when you release and still be firm when re applied ? all above is what i found on ford ford but many other models use similar calipers and spring locating recheck how this spring should locate hope this helps ? good luck

Mar 19, 2010 | 2001 Kia Sportage

2 Answers

97 ford e350 brake pedal goes to the floor...


are your rear drums set up? why did you bleed the brakes. when only when you installed new pads?

Sep 11, 2008 | 2002 Ford E350

1 Answer

No brakes


Hi,
Check the Brake master pump......If the padle drops to the floor means The booter is ok,,,,! I think the Brake master pump has a internal leak.....Reply me.....

Sep 06, 2008 | 1998 Land Rover Range Rover

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