Everything is good the distributor the ignitor and the ignition coil. the rotor on the distributor is also running good so i dont think its the timing belt i also replaced the cap and rotor but still wont work. could it be the main relay and if it is who can i check if its good.
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I guess you could have the ignition analyzed on an oscilloscope. Maybe a tech could see something then. I always heard the only gap was the spark plug gap-the rotor has no gap-are you sure you got the correct rotor? And does it touch the top distributor cap coil wire tower?
Let us know. It is a mystery worthy of a solution.
If your tach does not work that is a symptom. Of course a timing light is most useful. If not you can coil wires (swap with known good wire) ; check ignitor,(swap trail/lead ignitor plugs at distributor) coil, check with ohm meter.
Trailing ignitors are very common failures, especially when either jump starting or being jump started when a battery is stone dead. What happens is there can be a huge power spike through the ignition system damaging the electronics in the ignitor. 90% of trailing ignitor failures happen during a jump start procedure.
At this age though, wires and coils can be suspect. My recommendation for ignition parts, Mazda Mitsubishi Cap/rotor and NGK wires and plugs. They are good enough for Mazda factory race teams and I have been using them since 72 with no ignition related failures in racing or all the street vehicles that have been maintained. Most critical is the fit of the rotor, it should be very hard to install, very tight fit. If loose the rotors have a tendency to rotate and move causing changes in timing and at worse damaging the cap and rotor.
In reading your issue at hand not having no spark there is only a few things that can cause this being that its a 1988 car i will list below what you need to go over and check.
1.spark plug wires 2. distributor cap 3. ignition rotor 4. coil pick up 5. faulty distributor
That being said most are a easy and cheap fix plug wires run about 20-35 bucks autozonesduralast brand , distributor cap runs between 7-18 bucks , ignition rotor 3-8 bucks , coil pick up about 15-30 bucks all at autozone.
Now there is no real way to tell if there bad but a good examination of the distributor cap and rotor should tell you corroded inside cracked worn down.
i would start with distributor cap , ignition rotor, coil pick up if the car starts after this replace spark plugs wires. If that does not fix it most likely you distributor is faulty itself.
i hope it helps if so could you leave me so 4 thumbs up feedback thanks so much
the famous ignitor failure, but lets not condemd this device. The ignitor only generate current to the coil to collapse the magnetic flux that is built up. you may not have spark at the plugs but you need to know if you have spark at the coil, there are many times yes ignitor did solve the problem but the problem was the coil make it easy on youself open the distributor cap and have some one or you can do it. with the cap open remeber the position of the distributor rotor and crank the car,not to long is the rotor in the exact same position cause if it is it a timing belt.or that the rotor which is mounted in a fixed position may have spun allowing the shaft of the rotor to not move. disributor rotor do fail when the inner hold doent grip the shaft, and the cap yes it does fail its a carbon filled material and the do short out and so does the coil it short out internally then there is the ignition switch and yes it fails to provide power to the coil positive side.. Take this as a solution replace the ignitor, with a cap and rotor, and the coil it easier that way
Find an inductive pickup indicator for spark. Place on distributor cap to see if spark is at coil internal tower. If no spark at internal tower, look at ignition module or pickup coil. Ignition modules are prone to failure on 626's. But if you have spark at tower but not at the wire end, then your rotor is gone.