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Sorry dude but did you test anything before replacing parts ? There is a step by step diagnostic path to trouble shoot a problem like these. Does it have spark, does it have fuel pressure an is there compression in the cylinders ? After all that you should take it to a ASE certified repair technician !
I had the same exact problem with my 2000 blazer. I replaced the same things you did. It didn't matter what i did to it i still had the same problem. There was a heavy smell of gas when it was running and a lot of smoke. Here's what i did to fix this. After i replaced the spider injection ($350) i still had the problem so i figured something was telling this thing to stay wide open, which is constantly pouring gas on the spark plugs. Next i unhooked the wiring harness that plugs into the new spider injection (the one on top with about 12 wires). Then i set my multimeter to ohms and grounded the black one and then check each contact inside that harness. I forget now but i'm pretty sure 6 of those should be grounded and the other 6 pulse a signal. Anyway i found that 1 wire that shouldn't be a ground was so i traced that wire back and found a very small crack and instead of being orange about a 1/4 inch of the wire was green. I replaced a section of wire here put on some shrink wrap and it started and ran like new again. I only wish i would have spotted this before i started guessing and spending and listening to know it all's. I don't think i had the key on when i was i checking to see what wires were grounded. Let me know if this helps you.
take the fuel filter off for fun and see if ya can blow through it at least fast and not cost but a few min s...
If burning a lot of gas ,,timing ?...bad plugs ..wires
you can check wire out by just unplugging one and seeing if that changes idle at all until ya find one that does not ...wooot bad plug or wire...
Well its not exactly ignition or fuel injectors, since cylinder 6 in in the firing order. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Could be something with the intake again, or the pickup in the distributor. I suppose if you have the multi-port injection inside the plenium it could be some of the spider valves or lines. You would need to know if those cylinders are firing, and if they have normal compression.
What year is your truck? if it has a "vortex" engine in it then I would suspect the fuel injection system. The Vortex uses a spider web design with a central block and distribution liners that clip into the head. the tips are known to clog in the bores. Take the whole spider web off and spray the tips real good with carb cleaner and then clean the bores before you put it back together.
Remove distributor to spark plug wires (12286) using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
Disconnect muffler inlet pipe.
If equipped with secondary air injection, disconnect the secondary air injection check valve tube (9B480).
Remove attaching bolts and right exhaust manifold (9430).
Inspect joint faces for signs fo exhaust leaks, cracks or any defect that would make exhaust manifold unfit for use
1. Remove oil level indicator tube (6754).
Remove spark plug heat shield.
Remove distributor to spark plug wires using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
Disconnect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube (9D477). If equipped with air injection, disconnect the secondary air injection check valve tube.
Disconnect muffler inlet pipe.
Remove attaching bolts and exhaust manifold (9431).
Inspect joint faces for signs of exhaust leaks, cracks or any defect that would make the exhaust manifold unfit for use.
Clean mating surfaces of right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold and cylinder head (6049). Clean mounting flange of right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold and inlet pipe(s). Clean mounting surface for air injection tube or right exhaust manifold. Apply light film of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B to right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold.
Position right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold on cylinder head. Install attaching bolts and washers, starting at fourth bolt hole from front of each right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold. Tighten bolts to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft), working from center right to both ends.
Position inlet pipes to right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold. Install attaching nuts and tighten to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft).
Position the secondary air injection check valve tube and the secondary air injection tube gasket (9C435) at rear of right-hand exhaust manifold. Install attaching bolts and tighten to 19-25 Nm (14-18 lb-ft).
Attach the secondary air injection manifold tube (9B449) to left-hand exhaust manifold fitting (located under EGR tube). Tighten nut to 30-40 Nm (22-30 lb-ft).
Attach the secondary air injection check valve tube to rear of right-hand cylinder head. Tighten bolts to 75-85 Nm (56-62 lb-ft).
Connect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube to left exhaust manifold, if removed. Tighten nut to 53-72 Nm (39-53 lb-ft).
Install spark plug heat shield and distributor to spark plug wires.
Install oil level indicator tube to left exhaust manifold, if removed. Tighten nut to 13-24 Nm (10-18 lb-ft).
I have the same problem with my 94 s10 4.3 cpi.... I have been told after replacing fuel filter; 3 sensors; cap, rotor, plugs & wires; spider injection assembly; and a coil (and i could have even left something out the list is so long), that it is probably the 02 sensor by the cat converter. If not that then my injectors are already bad...oh yeah plus I cleaned the EGR valve. Does this only happen to you after you vehicle warms up? cuz thats when it goes crazy for me.