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Depending on the year and model, it may just be rusty- frozen on the hub. Sometimes you have to use a very large hammer to break it loose. But using a hammer may damage it beyond the point of being useable.
jack up vehicle wheel in question and install jack stand.remove wheel. Unbolt 2 caliper bracket bolts and pry caliper assembly up off brake rotor and hang off to the side with bungee.remove rotor . remove large axle nut. From the back of the hub remove hub bolts most commonly 15mm.Using a slide hammer style wheel puller the hub can be removed. if all you have is a big hammer hit the hub back and forth side to side until it can be removed. Bolt in new hub assembly and torque bolts.Install axle nut and torque. install rotor and caliper. reinstall wheel and torque.
Take off wheels, using a screwdriver pry between pad and rotor to push cylinder into caliper. Remove bolts holding caliper on rotor, remove old pad, replace with new pad, put caliper back on rotor. replace wheel, repeat other side. Als check rotor for wear, if bad get new rotors, always replace as a set
Sometimes when a car is built it may have parts from the previous year. Even though it is a 2004, the parts for a 2003 is what you need. Unless the front spindles were changed. Bring the old rotors to the local auto parts store so they can match them up. Other wise a trip to the local dealer is a last resort.
Don't need a puller for that. Remove the caliper and rotor, remove the center axle nut (have a shop break it free with an air gun before starting job. Nothing bad will happen if it's not really super tight as long as you don't drive around all week like that and you don't drive too fast or too far. Remove the bolts that hold the hub to the steering knuckle. Spray wd40 around the perimeter of the hub and use a chisel to separate the hub from the knuckle. Work on opposite sides equally to keep it straight as it comes out. Clean the hole out before installing the new one and put a swipe or grease in there to help when replacing. Reverse process to finish install. Hub bolt torque is about 65 and axle is about 175 (have a shop tighten if you can't and never loosen to get a cotter pin to go through axle if you have one there.)
You must remove the brake caliper first then there should be a nut with cotter pin that holds it to the shaft some have a cotter pin some do not, but there should be a nut holding it on, remove nut slide rotor off, pack new bearings with grease then slide new rotor on, install nut and brake caliper, you may need to press caliper piston back in if it is too tight on the new rotor, use a c clamp to press piston back in.
Have you puchased the new rotor yet? If so, if the new rotor comes complete with the hub assembly than this must be changed also. Try lookin up the part at your local Autozone or a similar place and look at the part image, if it is a complete unit, you'll have to remove the spindle locking ring and nut in order two remove the rotor. If it is just the rotor, than take a large brass hamer and strike the rotor from behind in the space where the caliper was. Do this while rotating the rotor a quarter turn after each hit. It should pop off.
Very, very few cars or trucks require the hub to be removed. In almost all American vehicles, the rotors are just resting on the hub and will come off fairly easily. Make sure you've removed the caliper, then smack the rotors a bit with a rubber mallet. They should come off. If there's a ton of rust, you might need to use some penetrating oil, then smack them a little.
Hit the sides of the rotor's center section (where the lug holes are) with a hammer - often, they'll seize from the heat of the braking system. Several firm taps on it all the way around usually loosens it. If not, hit it harder (seriously). Just don't hit the lug studs or you'll flatten the threads and have to replace them.