Question about 2003 Toyota 4Runner
The motor or regulator may still be bad. glass rolls down a whole lot easier than rolling up. the motor can be weak. you might try to lubricate the rubber channels that the glass rolls into on the sides with graphite spray. also, you can spray the moving regulator parts with white grease, be careful not to spray the glass, it will smear on the wiper felts
Posted on Aug 16, 2009
it is most likely your switch or your motor. Being the year that you have, I would replace both anyway. These are normal occurance in you type vehicle.
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The anti-pinch has to be 'reset', unfortunatly the motor has to be remover and reset. If you replaced the glass yourself... then go back and remove the glass from the regulator, unbolt & remove the regulator from the door (10mm bolts). remove the motor from the regulator. plug power into motor and rotate the drive gear 'UP' 6-10 turns. motor should be reset. reinstall motor, regulator and window. check operation before installing door panel.
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
I just repaired a 1999 Corolla (160,000 miles) window regulator with the same problem. I checked the motor commutator windings for shorts and the motor was OK. The brushes were still good. The motor is built like a clock - extremely well made with almost no indication of wear. Bench testing showed that the motor would not rotate once it had been run for a few seconds.
Elsewhere on the Internet someone mentioned a PTC Thermistor. This was exactly what was causing the problem. This is a special type of resistor "in series" with the motor that increases resistance when hot. It prevents the motor from drawing much current when stalled at the top or bottom of the window travel or in event of a jam, etc. The thermistor doesn't look like a standard "Radio Shack" part. By pulling off the motor top the magnets and commutator pull out. The PTC Thermistor is the two large copper plates separated by a silver looking material about 0.001" thick that are in series with one of the brushes. To fix, short out the thermistor. I tested with a small clip of copper wire. I made a permanent fix by soldering a jumper from one plate to another. During assembly, don't break the brushes.
The power window works great! I don't need an "electronic minder" to stop power to the motor at the top or bottom of the travel; I can do that. I don't intend to place my head in the window and push the button. If you have kids, this fix might not be for you.
Posted on May 31, 2009
The motor is burned out, likely due to heavily worn brushes inside. As the motor cools (from lack of use) it becomes usable again, but quickly heats up and seizes with use.
You will need to replace the window motor. If you are mechanically inclined it is not a difficult job.
The door panel needs to be removed (numerous philips screws and push fasteners), then there are two 10mm bolts holding the glass to the regulator. Support the glass in the upward position with tape or suction cup supporting devices.
Disconnect the power to the motor and unbolt the regulator from the door (about 5 10mm bolts), then slide the regulator and motor assembly out the door opening.
If you purchased a complete regulator/motor (typical aftermarket), simply install the new one in reverse order.
If you purchased just the motor (typical OEM), you will need to unbolt the motor from the regulator. Becautious as the regulator is spring loaded and will snap open once the motor separates. Install the new motor with the regulator in the same position as before disassembly, and reinstall into the vehicle.
Posted on Sep 10, 2009
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