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Re: my clutch slips in third gear
Have you verified that the clutch slave or master cylinder is functioning correctly? Check before changing clutch. You will need a good set of hand tools, including some swivel sockets and both 1/2" & 3/8" drive ratchets & extensions. You will also need a pilot shaft to properly locate the clutch disc. (I also use at least two long headless bolts the same size as the trans to bellhousing bolts to locate transmission as it is drawn into place, without moving the disc.There are fairly good instructions in most even "marginal" repair manuals such as haynes. You will find attaching bolts as you work. To do this properly you also need a decent floor jack to hold trans up while installing. Do not work on gravel or dirt or you won't be able to move jack as needed. If you don't have this stuff, and don't want to buy it, have a shop do the job or you likely will be wasting your $.
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check and/or change the transmission oil. Clutch problems are noticeable in 1st and reverse but as all the rest are syncro controlled you really do not need to use the clutch to change them. just get the engine rpms to match road speed and they will slip in. I am thinking a oil viscosity problem because of the colder weather.
Hello Hannah, I don't believe just yet that your problem is inside your transmission. I would first check the adjustment and condition of your clutch. If it were an internal transmission problem it would probably be with one gear ,not all of them. You aren't grinding fourth gear because it is possible to shift into fourth gear without using your clutch if your RPM's are high enough. If you are really lucky you will only have to adjust the clutch, and if your not so lucky you may have the go for a new clutch, preasure plate, and throwout bearing. In any case I would like to know how you make out, please contact me and GOOD LUCK.
TRANSMISSION FLUIDS CAN BE CAUSED BY ONLY A COUPLE OF THINGS. MOST COMMON BEING A WORN OR BROKEN SEAL. THE TRANSMISSION SEALS ON MOST CARS ARE MADE FROM RUBBER OR METAL. BEING IN ALL KIND OF EXTREME TEMPS FOR YEARS ON END NOT TO MENTION THE PARTS MOVING AROUND THEM WILL EVENTUALLY CAUSE LEAKS. ALSO FAULTY INSTALLATION (OF A SEAL) CAN ALSO CAUSE A LEAK TO HAPPEN. THE ONLY OTHER THING THAT CAN CAUSE A LEAK TO MY KNOWLEGE WOULD BE IF YOU BOTTOMED OUT A CAR LOW ENOUGH THAT IT CAUSES DAMAGE TO THE TRANS CASE OR PAN. One cause of grinding when shifting into reverse is improper adjustment of the clutch linkage. If the adjustment is correct when the clutch is depressed the gears should stop turning and eliminate the grinding. Make sure there is some free play in the linkage when the clutch is not depressed. Most manual transmissions do not have a sychronized reverse gear. When you try to go into reverse from neutral, the transmission countershaft (which is linked to the pilot shaft) is still turning. The main shaft (which is linked to the tailshaft) is not turning. Therefore, since there is no sychronizer (or clutch brake like on a heavy truck tranny) the sliding cluctch gear (splined to the main shaft) grinds against the main shaft gear (floating over the main shaft but meshing its respecive countershaft gear through the reverse idler). The slider's function is to lock the main shaft gear to the main shaft thereby transmitting power to the rear wheels in the desired gear ratio (depending on which main shaft gear is locked to the main shaft). The way to cure this is to select a forward gear to stop the transmission and then go to reverse, all the while holding the clutch down. If it still won't go into gear you can either slip the clutch ever so slightly to "bump" the gears while gently pushing the stick into reverse (not too hard!! you can bend or break forks!! OUCH!!) or go into neutral, let the clutch all the way out, go into a forward gear and then reverse.
Has the transmission been serviced? A transmission oil change and lubricant additive may help, however, it sounds as though you have a 3rd gear synchronizer going bad. Verify the shift linkage is not worn and is secure at the shifter and transmission be for spending any cash. If the linkage is good and the fluid change does not help after 150 miles, you might want to visit your favorite transmission shop.
Good luck and let me know.
Have them flush the fluid out under warranty and put in new fluid, and have them bleed the clutch lines in case air is getting in there. Audi and VW claim lifetime transmission fluid but it's BS - I've changed relatively low mile fluid from these cars and it was horrendous. It's possible that the fluid itself is causing trouble, but it's more likely that it is a synchro problem. If it was a clutch issue, you should have problems with more than just reverse gear - a clutch simply engages and disengages the engine and transmission, regardless of which gear it is. The problem (if not fixed by fluid) is in the transmission, and being under warranty, don't accept another "suggestion" like they're giving you. Changing your clutch isn't gonna do it.