MB DIAGNOSED BAD AIR PUMP, WHICH I PURCHASED MYSELF AT LOWER COST THAN MB AND HAD NON-MB MECHANIC INSTALL IT BUT HE COULD NOT CLEAR CODES AND I CANNOT PASS EMISSIONS WITH CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON . MECHANIC WAS ABLE TO CLEAR THE CODE TEMPORARILY AND I TRIED TO PASS EMISSIONS, BUT THEY SAID IT HAD TO BE DRIVEN FOR SEVERAL DAYS BEFORE THEY COULD TEST IT AND AFTER A FEW DAYS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME BACK ON. IS THERE ANY WAY TO CLEAR THE CODES MYSELF?
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Re: CHECK ENGINE CODE
First of all very nice car.your going to have to take it to MR.MB.sorry but at least you do not need them to install that air pump .Your mechanic did that for u and saved u a ton of money.And MR.MB dosnt like that .so they make sure they are the only ones who can reset that .p.s the light has to be out for more then 50 miles.to pass emissions if that helps you
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I was definitely gonna say your torque converter. The fix is to replace your torque converter. The convertor basically transfers the moving motion from the engine to the non moving motion of your transmission smoothly. When it goes bad it will usually make the motor run rough in gear or stall the motor when it's completely bad. It will be a fairly expensive cost since the torque convertor sits between the engine and transmission. It also could be faulty wiring as well. You would have to have it physically diagnosed by a mechanic to confirm if its electrical or the actual torque convertor.
P0506 - Idle Air Control (IAC) System RPM Lower Than Expected
What does that mean? This P0506 code is one that's sometimes triggered on vehicles that have electronic throttle control. That is, they don't have a regular throttle cable from the accelerator pedal to the engine. They rely on sensors and electronics to control the throttle. In this case, the P0506 DTC (diagnostic trouble code) is triggered when the PCM (powertrain control module) detects an engine idle speed that is lower than the desired (pre-programmed) RPM.
Potential Symptoms: Most likely the only thing you'll notice is the idle speed is lower than normal so it will likely be rougher. There are potentially other symptoms as well. Of course, when trouble codes are set, the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp, a.k.a. the check engine light) illuminates.
Causes: A P0506 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following: * A vacuum leak * An air restriction in the intake air path or exhuast * A faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve * Damaged/failed/dirty throttle body * Internal engine problem * Failed PCM
Possible Solutions: This DTC is more of an informational code, so if there are any other codes set, diagnose them first. If there are no other codes, inspect for vacuum leaks, restrictions, and damage. If there are no symptoms other than the DTC itself, just clear the code and see whether it returns.
Actually there are two kinds of engine hesitation.One is from fuel then two is the air .The mechanic should check on the fuel filter .look if the fuel that is going to the fuel pump is dirty or worn out . check the fuel filter then look if it is dirty and needed to be replace or change.Then the second is that the air filter it should also be check if dirty then replace it so that no dirt will go to the engine . if these problems are not solved then the cylinder will be having a problem that will cause the engine to hesitate.And always check the fuel you use to place to the fuel thank if dirty or diluted just to be sure.
you might check the fuse box & relays. and the ac shouldn't cost quite that much if you buy the part yourself. if you tell me what year, model, and engine i can look up part # and cost for you. the labor shouldn't cost more than $300 if you bring your own compressor.
Blinking engine lt. Poor performance-barely make it up a hill.
Mechanic said bad O2 sensor--Replaced--had same problem-
Used "ADVANCED AUTO" Diagnostic meter---FREE FREE FREE
Code read MISFIRE
Replaced COIL pack!!!!!!!!!
Returned to Advance auto to clear codes---
NO CHECK engine light --runs like new
Believe the COIL pack went bad causing the sensor to clog and go bad--Probably could have just cleaned it.
Cost $200 parts and free labor>LOTS of bad words,gerasy hands and good running car
HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE
It could be a number of things but must be diagnosed via computer code check. If you are unable to do so yourself, find a reputable Volvo mechanic. It could be the air mass meter, a bad O2 sensor or something related. Mine turned out not to be the air meter but a bad ground wire going to it. Didn't find out until $400.00 later.
P0410 secondary air injection system malfunction. I've dealt with this problem myself. It's either the air pump which is located under the driver's side door on the frame, or it's the valve on the engine that is sticking.
The air pumps are notorious for "freezing up" in cold climates due to water sitting in the pump and freezing and then breaking the impeller from the shaft in the pump. This is what happened with mine.
Remove your pump and test it. If it spins and blows air,then it's fine. Then check your valve on the engine. If that opens (which they like to get corroded with exhaust gasses and stick) Then that will be ok. If not, you'll have a pretty good idea what is going on.
I wnt ahead and replaced both the pump and valve, which were both crappy.
GM also has a check valve that you can install to prevent water from entering the pump. I just drilled a small hole in the bottom of mine to "drain" the water.