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Land Rover Master
Re: rattling in engine when inside fan is turned on
Check your AC clutch assy. If your going to defrost, it will come on too. Otherwise check fan(s) with engine of and battery neg(-) off and wiggle blades to see if any play, side to side, up & down, but moneys on AC clutch assy.
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details given lead me to belive that your climate control or fan of your heater is worn...normally just wear after years and do what you are saying....so try turn off off off all heater or cooler fans and go for a drive...other than that you've something wrapped around a driveshaft causing the noise...
Sorry for the late reply but, no, it is not related to a loose heat shield. It is a louder rattling sound more like a loose bearing vibrating inside either the transmission or the clutch assembly. Only between 1600 and 1900 rpm. and it is not present under ou over these rpm. The rattle desappear when I lock the 4X4. Dealer is out of solution!!
Check all of your belts and pullies. Sometimes it helps to remove the belts and turn the pullies by hand. Also run the engine without the belts for a few seconds. If the noise is still there, then it is most likely timing components rattling.
look at the front lower engine mount. I had similar noise which has been driving me nuts, thought may be thesway bar links, put it on friends hoist and saw that the front engine mount (mounted to bottom of lower radiator support) was cracked and the rubber bushing inside very worn with pieces missing. odd thing is that reving, or putting into gear never caused it to make a noise, just certain bumps. I ordered part from Autozone,hopefully it gets here before the holiday week end is over. Good luck
Have a look at the shrouds around your exhaust system, they are prone to shaking loose and rattle on over run. Try giving your exhaust a bang ( with your hand when it is cold) and see if it causes the noise . Follow the noise. Sometimes the baffles fall off inside the muffler and rattle around inside too. Happy hunting!!
but less serious to fix then to fix after it goes.
if could also be the vanos, variable valve timing. but at 2500 i'd say crank, especially if it has that rattle tone. that sound is a wearing connecting rod bearing. when it goes, the engine basically blows up and the insides try to escape through the engine wall...that destroys the bottom end, when that happens, stuff sometimes also goes up into the head, that destroys the top end.
then you would need a long block.
BTW: stop revying it above 2500. you need an engine job....seriously maybe cheaper to get a replacement engine from the junk yard.