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Re: replaced T-stat, engine overheats and no heat
Didi you bleed it with cap off & heater (not defrost) on ? Let your fan come on & off at rad 3 times at least with cap still off, and watch temperature gauge for overheating. Rev engine slightly for 5-10 seconds every once in a while while doing it.
And yes, head gasket could be problem if you overheated it too much before doing thermostat, is that possible ?
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An air bound heater core can cause this. A thermostat issue would cause it to overheat quickly (stuck shut) or cause the engine to take a long time to get up to normal operating temperature (stuck open).
Try this after the car has sat over night and is COLD.:
Top off the coolant RESERVOIR to the COLD MARK with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water when the engine and coolant are COLD. Replace the reservoir cap.
NEVER open the radiator cap when hot!!
Open RADIATOR cap - WHEN COLD - and top off radiator with the same 50/50 mix of coolant and water to just under the inner lip of the filler neck.
Start engine, turn heat to HOT and FAN to HIGH.
Watch the coolant level in the radiator. Maintain the level of coolant as close as possible to just under the filler neck lip. It is expected to fluctuate up and down as the thermostat opens to flood the radiator - and be pulled into the engine block. The more variation in the high and low indicates a fair amount of coolant has been lost. After the engine has gotten hot, you should feel hot air coming from the heater. Check the radiator level once more, top off and replace the radiator cap.
If still no heat, there may be a clog or restriction in the heater core hose. A cooling system flush should fix this, but can cost a few bucks at a Jiffy Lube or similar.
If you're losing coolant - that could be an indication of a leak (see puddles where you park?) due to a bad hose clamp or hole in a hose ($) or a bad gasket ($$$) or cracked engine block ($$$$). Look for white "smoke" (steam really) in the exhaust after the engine has warmed up to indicate that the coolant is entering a piston due to a gasket or block issue.
Hi Reggie, I'm glad to help. TWO things I want you to check. ONE: You have changed out a lot of stuff, so you may have air trapped in the cooling system, you'll need to remove the radiator cap and let it run until your at operating temperture, while watching to make sure it doesn't overheat on your of-course. If after running the engine say 30 minutes and topping off the coolant if needed, it still runs hot. Move on to: TWO: If you have the electric fan, some do, some don't. If it is electric make sure the fan is coming on, if it doesn't come on then you have found your problem, replace the fan assembly. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Reggie!
try driving it with the heater of full heat and see what happens ,also check to see if engine is pressurising on the rad cap ,start engine with the rad cap off and see if it starts to bubble and the level rise ,if so its a head gasket as most engines when they get to a certain mileage the head gasket will deteriorate ,this engine has a cast iron head so it shouldnt be corroded or warped in any way but the gaskets to rot away regardless .Now if its not building up pressure and the engine doesnt overheat with the heater on full heat and full air blow then renew the radiator
You have air pockets in the system. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap. Then run the engine until the thermostat opens as you top off the radiator and keep an eye on the temperature gauge. If you think the car is going to overheat, replace the radiator cap, shut off the engine and wait 15 to 20 minutes to let the engine cool. Once the thermostat opens, lightly grab the upper radiator hose to feel for air pockets. You will feel the bubbles as they pass through the hose. Then have someone else rev the engine to 1800 - 2000 rpm and hold it there while you top off the radiator completely and then install and tighten the radiator cap. DO NOT DROP THE RPM BEFORE THE CAP IS SECURED OR YOU MAY BE SERIOUSLY BURNED!! Finally, let the engine run and monitor the temperature and road test. You may have to repeat the steps 2 or more times to remove all of the air but usually it will clear the first time.
Water pump would never do that. pump either works or doesn't. You should have no heat 'till the engine is warmed up. Engine heats the water. If it was doing this before you changed the thermostat then the old one may have been bad. However, at this point, Id be looking to see if you have it installed with the spring end towards the engine, if the electric fans are coming on and if the radiator is internally obstructed and not flowing properly. You need to re-fill the system with the heat on full hot and the fill cap off to ensure that air purges from the system. If equipped with air bleeds, use them as well. One trick I use to prevent air binding is to warm up the engine to the point that the temperature is just below where it normally runs at. Turn the engine off and wait about three minutes for the stat to open and then begin filling slowly till it's full.(running) Used to be you could check radiator flow by putting your hand on it in different spots when hot. Cold spots would be where flow is restricted. Today radiators are not easily reached but most good shops use a heat sensing gun to check this. If your radiator fills through a cap on the radiator if you need to dribble coolant in or it backs up, that is a good indication that the radiator is obstructed as well (providing t stat is working.)
did you bleed air out coolant. if you did check engine oil when engine cool .could have a blown head gasket. if it look like milk shake . head gasket leak . reason blow no heat check see heater blower motor working.if yes . heat control unit or heat door not open in dash vacuum line to heat door actutator could be leaking.