They should be replaceable w/o pulling the axle. Imagine a common nail; you have the shank of the nail with its point and the flat head on the other end. Your lug stud looks a little like that except the part that comes through the axle flange. It is a little larger than the threaded part and has "lateral lines" machined into it to grip inside the flange. Otherwise it would spin either way when you tried to tighten or remove it. To get the broken ones out, use a high quality flat end punch and a hammer to drive them backwards (toward the center of your differential) and eventually out of the flange. Look for the area that will give you the most room so they will not hit aything while they are backe out of the flange. The new studs can be installed in the reverse manner. When you get them just barely started through the flange, use your fingers to twist them back and forth to "feel" for the grooves where the old stud was seated. Once you get it barely started in the grooves, grease the threads, slip an old 1/2 inch drive socket over the new stud (make sure it doesn't fit tight) slip on a thick flat washer or 2--3 thin ones, turn your lug nut around backwards so the tapered end faces out and begin to tighten it. Go slow, make sure the new stud pulls through the flange evenly. Take the nut, washers and socket off every now and then and look at your progress. When the back side of the stud is seated on the back of the flange, you're finished. Now, always grease the studs. ALL OF THEM, EVERY WHEEL. The monkeys that put on tires these days use impact wrenches and if you just have to let them do it, grease will help you loosen the nut if you have to and it will help prevent future failures. A DRY stud and nut causes a twisting motion to take place in the body of the stud when its tightened. This leads to premature metal fatigue.
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I'm guessing you mean the wheel studs.The studs are pressed in from the back.Most of the time,you can pound out the old studs with a large hammer,and rotate the axle to find a position to slip out the old one/put in the new one.When buying the new studs,see if you can also buy one plain lug nut(with a flat end).Grease the flat side,and use it to pull the new stud into place.(make sure the shoulder of the bolt makes full contact with the axle flange)
I have never done one on this vehicle but have replaced many on all other cars over the years, this is what i experienced, the stud will pound out with a good 2-3 lb. hammer, and the new stud and nut will get pulled back through the empty hole by use of a strong impact wrench...start the stud by hand try to pull it as much as you can through the splined hole in the axle flange, install the new nut backwards on the stud screw it down as far as you can then with the 1/2' drive impact wrench on full throttle tighten the lug nut...by doing this you are pulling the stud through the void hole.
Please remeber to use a small amount of axle grease on the new stud and hole prior to installing the replacement stud and nut.
You prbably have to remove the disc brake caliper and brake pads along with the rear disc brake rotor to gain access to the stud, there should be an access hole also allowing you to get behind the axle flange for removal and installation.
Hope this works.
You will have to get a book. Some trucks, they just pull out, others, you have to pull the pins out of the rear differential. Jack the truck up on the one side so the oil doesn't come flooding out your way. Pull the bolts off, then you have to snatch the axle out with a chain bolted to the lug studs,or a dent puller, It isn't an easy job. Replace the seal and the bearings, and tap it back in, hope this helps.
take off tire. remove old stud by hammering it out with a punch. put a socket behind axle plate so as not to break the plate. when replacing, just start stud from back by hand, then use a lug nut to pull it in tight. when tight replace tire!
is it the front or rear your trying to remove? if its the front you will have to take the center cap off of the rotor and take the lock plates or pins which ever it is lose and pull the outer wheel bearing out take your caliper off and mounting braket remove your rotor and pull it out. to put the new stud in. you will need a spacer of some short like a over sized nut to put over the stud and take a old lug nut and thighten it down untill it is flush but don't thighten it too much or it will pull the threads. if its on the rear. you will have to remove the rear cover on the rearend housing push the back axle in turn the wheels untill you can see the spider gears and there will be a clip you will have to remove then you can slide the axle out enough to ge the old one out and put the new one. then just reverse to put back together hope this helps.
I assume that you are referring to the wheel studs and if so you will have to remove the wheel, the brake caliper, the brake caliper stand and the brake rotor. Drive the old stud out with a hammer. Make sure you purchase new lug nuts with the studs. If they are the acorn style, buy one that is not to help with installation. Slide the new stud in the hole from the rear of the flange, install some washers for clearance of the stud shoulder. Install the non acorn style lug nut on the stud backwards. Using a impact gun, pull the stud through. Remove the backwards lug nut and washers.
I'll try to help you. If you are having trouble with 3 out of 5 studs on one wheel you may want to go to an autoparts store or Salvage yard to look at the whole hub. Usually a press is used to remove the bolts so you would be taking off the hub anyway. When you pay for 3 bolts and labor you may be better off in a Salvage yard or parts place for a different hub. The rear hub on front wheel drive cars is like a trailer axle. Much simpler to remove mounting bolts and press in new bolt. But if rear has differential(rear wheel drive) it has an axle shaft. Would be easier to grind and drill out broken stud on car. You can draw new bolt into place by placing bolt through a socket and use the wheel nut to draw the bolt into the hub.
pick up new wheel studs. using a punch hammer out the old broken off studs. push in the new studs from the back side grease the threads put your lug nut on backwards and tighten up this will pull the stud into place. as long as your wheel isnt damaged or new wheel . use a torque wrench and torque the lug nuts drive a mile or so and torque again and then after 50 miles.