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Why did you change the brake pads? Was it because there was already a problem with the brakes? Or just because they were worn out?
It's quite common for the failure of the brake master cylinder during/after bleeding brakes, especially if it's the first time for a long time that they've been bled. The reason is simple: during operation, vehicle braking systems take water from the atmosphere into the brake fluid. This does a couple of things - reduces the boiling point of the fluid; and begins the inexorable process of the corrosion of the inisde of the brake system components. This also happens within the brake master cylinder, and creates a 'use ridge' at the place where the piston stops in normal operation. When you bleed the brakes, you force the master cylinder piston beyond (across) that ridge, and sadly this often tears the fine sealing edge off the master cylinder piston seal, leading to a soft pedal (at best) or one that goes through to the floor (at worst). Obviously I can't tell you what's happened to yours, but it will need someone to check it out properly or you run the risk of having permanently unserviceable (and potentially unsafe) brakes. Good luck!
try bleeding your ABS block first, if that doesn not work could need a master or proportioning vavle. Some scan tools are capable of bleeding the ABS system on some vehicles, and some you have to bleed manually.
Check the following:
Fluid level in master cylinder is at correct level - between min and max marks or just below the bottom of the cap. If fluid level is okay then was master cylinder very low on fluid recently? If so it may have air trapped in it. Most master cylinder's these days need to be "bench bled" first.
However, the most likely problem is the seals in the master cylinder are bad. You will have to replace it. Another possible but rare problem could be the rubber section of a brake line is "ballooning" when you step on the brake.
The air noise you hear is most likely vacuum from the brake booster, which is normal.
Hope this helps.
Hi, bleeding your rear brakes with engine running, you should get enough pressure out of the lines to squirt 3-4 feet. In other words, good pressure. If all you get is a trickle, you probably have a bad master cylinder. Just because its full of fluid, does not mean the seals arent shot. If you have bled them in order, left rear,right rear,left front,right fornt and have bled them enough to get fresh fluid out of each one without achieving good solid pressure at all wheels, replace your master cylinder. There is a proportioning valve, but usually it will affect only one wheel when going out, usually the left rear.
Brake pedal height comes from the rear brakes, so if you have bad pressure there, you will never get a good pedal. Eventually with a bad master, your brakes will go completly out..Mike
Hi, your proportioning valve is stuck. Take the caps off and recenter the one stuck valve. Then rebleed the system using the procedure below. Thanks for using fixya.
For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.
Deplete the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition OFF .
Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid.
The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
Loosen the front brake line(s) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
Tighten the line connection(s).
Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal.
Loosen the line connection(s) again, allowing air to escape from the master cylinder.
Tighten the line(s), then have the assistant release the brake pedal and wait for 15 seconds.
Repeat steps D through F until the line(s) are free of air.
When finished bleeding the air from the master cylinder, tighten the line connections to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
Repeat steps B through H, only with the master cylinder rear pipe fitting(s).
Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.
Never reuse brake fluid that has been bled from the system.
If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
With the help of an assistant, apply the brake pedal slowly and hold.
During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.
While the assistant continues to apply pressure to the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder screw, and watch for air bubbles in the container.
Be very careful when loosening the wheel cylinder and brake caliper bleeding screws. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper.
Tighten the bleeder screw.
Instruct the assistant to release the brake pedal.
Wait approximately 15 seconds, and instruct the assistant to depress the brake pedal again.
Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.
Repeat steps C through F until there are no air bubbles present in the container.
Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
Once all the air is bled from the system, install the bleeder screw caps.
After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.
Did you remember to bleed the master cylinder itself? When the master cylinder runs dry you should start bleeding your brake system at the master cylinder and then continue on to each of the four wheel cylinders.
have you checked the fluid level? Make sure that the master cylinder is full of fluid and that there aren't any puddles of brake fluid under the vehicle. If there are no leaks and the fluid level is ok, I would have to guess that the brakes were not properly and/or completely bled of air. If it feels as if there are no brakes at all then I would have to think it may not have beeen bled period. All 4 wheels, in this case, should be thoroughly bled.