Question about 1997 Buick Skylark

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1997 Buick Skylark No BRAKES

My husband recently changed the master cylinder and pads and we have bled all lines and get nothing but brake fluid back, but when the vehicle is started the brakes go to the floor. please help!

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  • mommaof2brat Feb 27, 2009

    We did all that. And yes it has ABS. My ABS light has been on for some time, could that have anything to do with it?

  • mommaof2brat Feb 27, 2009

    When the brakes are pumped up I have brakes. Put to just push on them they go to the floor. We will try bleeding from the back to the front and see if that works. Any other ideas please feel free to answer as I will be checking this frequently!



    Thanks Again!

  • Mike Butler
    Mike Butler May 11, 2010

    Does it have ABS brakes?

  • Chris
    Chris Sep 05, 2014

    Check the fuses for your ABS as the light should reset everytime you re power the car. There is a major issue with master cylinder if the fuse isn't blown.

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Try bleeding the master cylinder after it has been installed, the same way you bleed lines. Just crack the lines a smidge. And I mean a tiny smidge. It worked on my 97 protege.

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

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  • Mike Butler
    Mike Butler Feb 28, 2009

    Just for future reference, when bleeding brakes, always go to furthest wheel from master cylinder first, which on most vehicles means, rt.rear, left.rear, rt.front, left front. (from sitting in drivers seat.)

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Did you bleed the master cylinder before you put it on the car .
New master need to be bench bleed before you install them then bleed all the brakes starting with the furthest one from the master

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

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  • James Waters Feb 27, 2009

    i have found with abs you need to pump more before you start to bleed 50 to 100 times more and after you bleed

    with a abs light on you should still have brake presure even with a bad abs pump .a bad abs pump you will feel in the brake pedal like a pulsing .the light can be a sensor

  • James Waters Feb 27, 2009

    post your findings when your done

  • James Waters Feb 27, 2009

    also check for leaks in the brake booster

  • greg swartz Mar 21, 2013

    what was the reason for the MC change? you bled the brakes and got no air? you should at least get a little after a MC change. also could be the MC, even new they sometimes come worthless right out of the box especially if you get the cheapest one. if you got the lifetime warrenty bring it back, bench bleed with the two tube method and bleed until you get air. if you open the lines it's in there somewhere.

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1 Answer

Brakes have no pressure


Why did you change the brake pads? Was it because there was already a problem with the brakes? Or just because they were worn out?

It's quite common for the failure of the brake master cylinder during/after bleeding brakes, especially if it's the first time for a long time that they've been bled. The reason is simple: during operation, vehicle braking systems take water from the atmosphere into the brake fluid. This does a couple of things - reduces the boiling point of the fluid; and begins the inexorable process of the corrosion of the inisde of the brake system components. This also happens within the brake master cylinder, and creates a 'use ridge' at the place where the piston stops in normal operation. When you bleed the brakes, you force the master cylinder piston beyond (across) that ridge, and sadly this often tears the fine sealing edge off the master cylinder piston seal, leading to a soft pedal (at best) or one that goes through to the floor (at worst). Obviously I can't tell you what's happened to yours, but it will need someone to check it out properly or you run the risk of having permanently unserviceable (and potentially unsafe) brakes. Good luck!

Jun 11, 2012 | 1996 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

No pressure on brake pedal 95 suburban 2500 4x4 7.4L


try bleeding your ABS block first, if that doesn not work could need a master or proportioning vavle. Some scan tools are capable of bleeding the ABS system on some vehicles, and some you have to bleed manually.

Apr 07, 2012 | 1995 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

New brake pads installed and still the brake pedal still goes all the way down and it sounds like the air is on but its coming from the brakes n i bled the brakes but they still don't work.


Check the following:
Fluid level in master cylinder is at correct level - between min and max marks or just below the bottom of the cap. If fluid level is okay then was master cylinder very low on fluid recently? If so it may have air trapped in it. Most master cylinder's these days need to be "bench bled" first.

However, the most likely problem is the seals in the master cylinder are bad. You will have to replace it. Another possible but rare problem could be the rubber section of a brake line is "ballooning" when you step on the brake.

The air noise you hear is most likely vacuum from the brake booster, which is normal.
Hope this helps.

Aug 06, 2011 | 1996 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

I have changed the rear rotors and brake pads, bled the brakes after putting itall back together. Seemed to have brakes but then shortly thereafter they are like a sponge. Last time I tried bleeding them...


Hi, bleeding your rear brakes with engine running, you should get enough pressure out of the lines to squirt 3-4 feet. In other words, good pressure. If all you get is a trickle, you probably have a bad master cylinder. Just because its full of fluid, does not mean the seals arent shot. If you have bled them in order, left rear,right rear,left front,right fornt and have bled them enough to get fresh fluid out of each one without achieving good solid pressure at all wheels, replace your master cylinder. There is a proportioning valve, but usually it will affect only one wheel when going out, usually the left rear.
Brake pedal height comes from the rear brakes, so if you have bad pressure there, you will never get a good pedal. Eventually with a bad master, your brakes will go completly out..Mike

Jun 20, 2011 | 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Truck

1 Answer

Changed brake pads and rotors, then bled brakes and now I have no brakes at all


Fill up the master cylinder and bleed them again all four wheels you might have got air in the brake lines from letting the master getting to low on brake fluid. and check the equalizer valve.

Feb 20, 2011 | 1997 Pontiac Sunfire

1 Answer

I replaced the whole back break line,as i try to bleed them i get fluid out of the front passenger side and the back driver side,but nothing out of the other two.whats the problem?


Hi, your proportioning valve is stuck. Take the caps off and recenter the one stuck valve. Then rebleed the system using the procedure below. Thanks for using fixya.

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For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.
  1. Deplete the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition OFF .
  2. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid.
  3. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the front brake line(s) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.




WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

  1. Tighten the line connection(s).
  2. Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal.
  3. Loosen the line connection(s) again, allowing air to escape from the master cylinder.
  4. Tighten the line(s), then have the assistant release the brake pedal and wait for 15 seconds.
  5. Repeat steps D through F until the line(s) are free of air.
  6. When finished bleeding the air from the master cylinder, tighten the line connections to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  7. Repeat steps B through H, only with the master cylinder rear pipe fitting(s).

  1. Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.



WARNING Never reuse brake fluid that has been bled from the system.

  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left rear
    3. Right front
    4. Left front

  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
    2. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
    3. With the help of an assistant, apply the brake pedal slowly and hold.


During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.
  1. While the assistant continues to apply pressure to the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder screw, and watch for air bubbles in the container.

Be very careful when loosening the wheel cylinder and brake caliper bleeding screws. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper.
  1. Tighten the bleeder screw.
  2. Instruct the assistant to release the brake pedal.
  3. Wait approximately 15 seconds, and instruct the assistant to depress the brake pedal again.

Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.
  1. Repeat steps C through F until there are no air bubbles present in the container.

  1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
  2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
  3. Once all the air is bled from the system, install the bleeder screw caps.
  4. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

Feb 14, 2011 | 1994 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

Rusted rear left brake line replaced, fluid drained from master cylinder. Left the line open while I picked up the new line. Bled all four brakes, but the peddle goes to the floor (slowly) with medium...


Did you remember to bleed the master cylinder itself? When the master cylinder runs dry you should start bleeding your brake system at the master cylinder and then continue on to each of the four wheel cylinders.

Dec 15, 2010 | 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora

1 Answer

My parking brake light keeps coming on everytime I push tha brakes and it feels like there are no brakes the pedal comes back up after I push it down I recently had tha fron calipers replaced with pads and...


have you checked the fluid level? Make sure that the master cylinder is full of fluid and that there aren't any puddles of brake fluid under the vehicle. If there are no leaks and the fluid level is ok, I would have to guess that the brakes were not properly and/or completely bled of air. If it feels as if there are no brakes at all then I would have to think it may not have beeen bled period. All 4 wheels, in this case, should be thoroughly bled.

Sep 27, 2010 | 1998 GMC Jimmy

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