HELP!!! Trying to Remove oil pan from 1985 Cheve S-10. Front of oil pan rests on frame cross member. Is there a way of removing the pan without removing the motor mounts? If removal of motor mounts required, is there a secret way of removing nuts from the bottom of mounts? Please, any help? P.S. Broke the Distributor trying to get it out ... any suggestions there?
Re: HELP!!! Trying to Remove oil pan from 1985 Cheve
Wow! that really sucks.... first if you drop the cross member you should be able to get at with ease other wise if you dont wanna screw with that unbolt the engine mounts and raise the front of the engine up BUT THIS TIME WATCH THE DISTRIBUTOR.... dont get near the fire wall... get me informed of other problems. and there aint no good way of taking the motor mounts out just take a wrench and put it on the bottom nut and take an impact wrench to the bolt
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I'm going to simply "spitball" an answer because i don't know WHY you think you need to change the oil pump.
1st, IF the oil pressure gauge isn't showing any pressure, or low pressure, AND there is no engine noises such as knocking or loud tapping, I would suspect a faulty oil pressure sending unit. IF there's a deep knocking sound then an oil pump isn't going to solve the problem. That is UNLESS it turns out to be what I ran across on a 1991 S10 4x4 with a 4.3. There was a "knocking" sound which I traced to the cover plate of the flywheel/flexplate. Turned out to have a cracked flexplate. Changed it and all was good.
I have a 1985 GMC that showed low oil pressure, yet there was no noises coming from the engine to confirm low oil pressure. I changed the pressure sending unit and it fixed the problem of "low oil pressure".
Now IF you're dead set on changing the oil pump, get ready because it isn't a 10 minute job.
You'll more than likely have to at LEAST raise the engine somewhat as (I'm guessing it's 4x4) the oil pan has a deep sump area for the oil pick up. This is so the oil pan can be shallow in the front area to clear the front differential and cross frame area.
Then you get to try to wiggle, twist, wiggle some more, the oil pan out from between the bottom of the engine/crankshaft, and the cross member of the frame AFTER removing all of the bolts that hold the oil pan in place.
IF it were me, I'd be almost inclined to simply pull the engine, at least part way out of the truck, to gain better access to the pan. AND you wouldn't be fighting trying to keep the oil pan gasket in place while doing the wiggle/twist putting the pan back into place.
u should not have to remove pan. if the seal is leaking just replace. when u loosen the bolts it will provide enough room to replace gasket. if you really have to replace the pan. you have to loosen the motor mounts and jack up the engine a little. be very careful!!!!
AN OIL PAN HAS LOTS OF BOLTS THERE SMALL BUT YOU TIGHTEN THEM TO 10 FT-LBS AHD YOU HAVE SAY 30 THATS 300 FT-LBS ITS GOT TO DO WITH EVEN PRESSURE TRY TRYING TO SNUG UP ONES THAT MAY BE LOSE ALTHOUGHT ITS HARD TO STOP AN OIL LEAK ONCE IT STARTS GOOD LUCK
YOU NEED A REPAIR MANUAL BECAUSE YOU HAVE A FEW THINGS YOU HAVE TO DO TO REMOVE OIL PAN.FIRST OF ALL YOU HAVE LOWER FRONT DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER WITH FLOOR JACK IF YOU HAVE 4WD VECHICLE..DISCONNECT THE FRONT EXHAUST Y PIPE FROM THE ENGINE AND THE EXHAUST SYSTEM.YOU HAVE TO REMOVE OIL PAN SKID PLATE.AND THE LOWER CONTROL ARM CROSS MEMBER FROM BELOW THE OIL PAN.
Yes, you need to pull the engine to remove the oil pan. This requires that you remove the propeller shafts and the third cross member to slide the transmission toward the rear of the vehicle. I suggest you purchase a service manual before you start this process. More than likely the rod bearing for cylinder 1 has failed. This seems to be a common problem with later model 3.5L Trooper engines because the oil pump and oil gallery do not deliver oil as efficiently to the number 1 rod bearing.