Timing problem on my 94 cobra

go to end of wiring where chip harness ends, you will see where tap was made. reconnect oem wiring back in to place,you should be okay..

no idea iam a europen mechanic but if this vehicle has a timing belt then check this first

would not of thought so as long as the key turns in the barrel it should start possibley a fault with the chip in the key if it has one hope this helps ivan

It starts with the security light and then gets worse till the car won't start anymore. The security system (VATS/Passkey) installed on these GM cars is anti-owner more than an anti-theft. There are 3 parts involved: 1) The chip-key 2) The lock cylinder 3) The TDM (aka the brain of the system) if any of these parts fails or is even slightly malfunctioning, the car stays stuck where you are and you only get a dealer asking you about 1,000$ to fix it. And all the 3 parts have a quite short lifespan. Way too many people got in this situation (including myself). I don't recommend any partial solution or any used parts as it would happen again way too soon to be acceptable and if it happens 100 miles from home (like it happened to me....) it's a big burden. I finally made it to save my beloved 94 Park Avenue (with the same system that is installed in your car) with a solution that I found on the internet and that bypasses the entire factory security system, all 3 pieces altogether and you can even remove the TDM at the end and use 99c keys without chip. The product I used is at http://newrockies.com and is still working perfectly after 5 years. Don't go to the dealer!

The security system (VATS/Passkey) installed on these GM cars is anti-owner more than an anti-theft. There are 3 parts involved:

1. The chip-key
2. The lock cylinder
3. The TDM (aka the brain of the system)

if any of these parts fails or is even slightly malfunctioning, the car stays stuck where you are and you only get a dealer asking you about 1,000$ to fix it. And all the 3 parts have a quite short lifespan. Way too many people got in this situation (including myself). I don't recommend any partial solution or any used parts as it would happen again way too soon to be acceptable and if it happens 100 miles from home (like it happened to me....) it's a big burden. I finally made it to save my beloved 94 Park Avenue (with the exact same system that is installed in your car) with a solution that I found on the internet and that bypasses the entire factory security system, all 3 pieces altogether and you can even remove the TDM at the end and use 99c keys without chip. The product I used is at http://newrockies.com and is still working perfectly after 5 years. Don't go to the dealer!

Sounds like the immobilizer. Does the key light in the dash stay on when you turn it over?

Immobilizer is the code that the key has (it's actually a radio frequency identification or RFID chip). If the key code doesn't match the car code, the car will turn over but won't stay running.

If this is the problem, you'll need to take the car to a dealer to get the key recoded.

Theres a transmission cooling sensor and somtimes the wire comes loose from other repairs being done around it. or its just out. its on the left side sitting on the tranny. THATS WHY your d4 light is blinking

There is a metal button on the ignition housing. Insert your key press the button while turning the key until the button goes in pull out the tumbler. Let me know if the helps. You need more help I will sent you step by step instructions. Hope that helped u out.

Relace blower control module.

if fuel pump stay running that one thing but it should not get the cylinder full of gas unless injector stay open if as soon you put the key on the injector open anf fill the cylinder that sound like our computer is shorted try another computer if its ok change the oil before you go the engine is full of gas hope it a fixya thanks pierre