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Re: getting space between trans and block 1993 caravan...
I agree that you must remove the transmission. And then the flywheel/flex plate. If it is an overdrive transmission (computer controlled 4speed) be carefull not to damage the flywheel sensor ring. And the crankshaft sensor needs to be adjusted afterwards.
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make sure that all the mounting bolts around the bell housing are removed.
you did not mention make and model so some vehicles have bolts from the engine side as well as from the transmission side
next if you can get the transmission to move away from the block at all then the problem will be that the input shaft is rusted into the clutch plate or the input shaft is rusted into the spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft
it may be necessary to use something like tyre levers on either side of the bell housing to force the box away from the block
BASICALLY YOU NEED TO BLOCK YOU WHEELS, REMOVE THE DRIVESHAFT DISCONNECT THE SHIFTER\ SHIFT LINKAGE, POSSIBLY REMOVE STARTER, LOOSEN TRANS MUONT AND REMOVE CROSS MEMBER, SUPPORT TRANS, UNBOLT BELLHOUSING AND SLIDE IT BACK. NOT SURE WHAT YOU ARE WORKING ON BUT MOST TIME REMOVAL OF FORK DOESN'T REQUIRE TRANS REMOVAL, BUT SOMETIMES IT DOES.
Your problem is probably that you have the clutch plate out of position and the clutch shaft is not being allowed to line up with the spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft. . Get a cheap clutch aligning tool, loosen off the pressure plate bolts and align the clutch plate. Having done that retension the pressure plate bolts. Keep the gearbox evenly spaced around the bell housing as any misalignment will not allow the clutch shaft to engage in the clutch plate and the spigot bearing.
Disconnect battery ground cable first, for replace stator motor you must need to lift up the car for get space to go under the car stator motor at left side the engine, then remove under cover of engine compartment, after that you can see the stator motor behind the left side engine mount, then remove main wire from stator motor and also solenoid wire, next remove two bolts for stator motor from bell housing and pull stator motor out and take out between trans mission and chassis rail you can see where you can get space to take it out, when you install back do the reverse order. is this information helped you? if yes please leave a comment.
your gonna have to take the bell house off,you will also have to take down the drive shaft at the front end,to get the bell house off.the bolt on the right side,is blocked by the drive shaft,,,,,i just changed mine a week ago
this is an older rear wheel drive car you don't need to remove motor, i would along with these instructions get a repair manual (Haynes) for reference purposes, jack up the front of the car , support on frame with jack stands, remove battery cables, remove starter, all electrical plugs on tranny, then remove access panel for torque converter bolts located at lower front of bell housing, after access plate removal rotate torque converter to the point where you can not only unscrew converter bolts but also remove drain plug to drain converter. To stop converter from turning during removal of nuts you must lodge a large screwdriver between the flywheel gear teeth and the engine block at an appropriate location ( at starter location usually) after removing all torque convert.nuts jack up slightly or support trans with trolley jack and 1 ft length of wood under pan, proceed to remove all bell housing bolts except for the top one, remove that one last after removing the drive shaft of course, also make sure you remove the transmission crossmember after jacking up trans slightly. the idea is to allow the tranny to only be attached at the end of removal by the one top bell housing bolt and supported by the trolly jack and two bye four or better 3/4 in thick 1 ft X 1ft plywood board after unscrewing the last bolt the trans. can be pulled back away from the motor and lowered down. the installation is reversal but aligning the torque converter to engine can be problematic sometimes (patience and strength) you can do it!
start off bt taking off your shifter, then disconnect the wires,cables, and the 4x4 linkage, the drop out both drive shafts, support the tranny and transfer case then remove the tranny mount. take out the bolts on the bell housing that go into the motor the pull out the slave cylinder,and the last thing to remove is the cross member that holds up your tranny. after that slide the tranny back about 6 inches tor until it's free from the block and lower it down. after you get it on the ground pull of out clutch fork that is in the bell housing of your tranny, pull the bearing off the shaft that is in the bell housing as well. and last but not least take off the clutch plate ans the clutch disk that is on the fly wheel on your block. and i cant stress this enough be careful when you pull the tranny out and make sure it will not fall on you. so please do it carefully. And take your time.
no they make special tools but if you want to make it easy on yourself yes.. or get a rental tool with the right curve and cup size to install hammer needed to tap in with special tool for freeze plugs. Also keep in mind if your just replacing one its quick but if all are rusted or you think there are always doubt there are some in the middle of the housing and motor side behind your flywheel and diffrent sizes two.
It sounds like you have a freeze out plug broken. This is a job you may have to remove the engine just to see that you did not crack the engine block. I hope this helps. Don't forget to rate my answer. thanks.