Question about 1992 Jaguar XJ6
How do I remover the rear hub and bearing from my 1992 xj6 jaguar?
What do you need to do? to remove the whole hub you need to undo the nut in the centre of the hub, support the car on stands on the subframe and remove the roadwheel, loosen and slide out the bolt holding the hub to the lower arm and tap the centre shaft out with a copper hammer (it should not be too tight) the long bolt has seals and shims in the hub, keep them in the same place. You can usually get a Haynes manual from the library, it will be a big help
Posted on Aug 22, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: rear hubs
In the center of the hub is the axle retaining bolts, 8 I think, remove them and pull the axle out, under that is a giant nut that retains the hub, it requires a quite expensive special tool to remove and re-install correctly, that huge nut retains the entire hub/brake drum assembly. Replace th grease seal and check the axle bearing while you have it apart.
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Posted on Oct 19, 2008
Unless you are mechanically competent, I would not advise you carry out this procedure yourself, but leave it to the professionals.
If you are mechanically minded, and competent, the pads are relatively easy to replace, as follows.
Jack up the vehicle and put on stands, if you don´t have access to a hoist?
Remove wheels, and open the hood, put some kitchen roll around the brake fluid reservoir, to catch any excess brake fluid, when you push back the brake caliper pistons, if it´s been overfilled.
On the front brake caliper's, you are best to put in a little lever between pads and disc, and ease back the piston to fully retracted, unless you have a small G clamp which will do the same job when caliper is adrift.
Remove the 2 x 13mm caliper securing bolts and swing off the caliper, and support with a piece of wire, don´t just let it dangle on the brake hose.
Remove the brake pads, and sensor wire, check the caliper piston dust cover for splits, and clean caliper, housing, etc, and disc, with brake cleaner.
Fit the new brake pads to the caliper, and refit with 2 new securing bolts with blue lock tite, (normally supplied with the B/Pads.)
The rear caliper´s are pretty much the same as the front, although you can just undo the top bolt and swing the caliper back, but I usually remove both, for ease of cleaning, and inspection.
After rear caliper´s and pads and sensor wire, and new bolts are fitted, pump the brake pedal with the ignition on, and just run around, and check there are no leaks from the caliper pistons.
Check the fluid level, and lower with suction syringe if necessary.
By the way, 1. When did you last change your brake fluid ?
2. Adjust your front wheel bearings end float ?
You could do this now before you fit the wheels.?
Let me know if you wish the details for that too ?
Good luck !
Don´t forget to give me a FixYa rating please !
Then refit wheels, drop down the car,
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
Remove Both Wheel and Drum Look for 3 or 4 Torx type Bolts at front or back of Backing Plate , Remove theese Bolts to Remove the HUB, Reverse To Install.
P.S. It may takje A Hammer to Get Hub off After Bolts.
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
SOURCE: how to remove rear bearing hub
The bearing is already shot so disregard what you hear about loosening the hub nut before you jack the car up. If you are doing this in your backyard it is VERY important to jack and support the car properly....you won't be able to use the parking brake because you'll be taking the disc/hat off. So work smart and safe.----Remove hub cap. :---Spray PB Blaster or another good rust killer in the hub, and all the nuts you will be removing. That means the pinch bolts for the toe link and the upper ball joint, plus the nut. Also the nut on the bolt of the lower arm. --Break the lug nuts AND 36mm hub nut a 1/4 turn.--Jack up the car and support. Remove lug nuts, then tire.----Remove brake caliper and support it to prevent damage to hose....I hung mine from the coil spring...The metal brake line fit in between the coils very nicely.----Remove disc/hat.----Remove the 36mm hub nut (you need buy a new one...really) -----Use a hub puller to press the axle shaft in through the hub, just a little bit...to break the rust. JUST A LITTLE! YOU ARE JUST BREAKING THE RUST SO IT WILL COME APART EASIER LATER. Spray it again and move on. Remove puller for now. -----Remove the springs, and retainers from the parking brake and remove the parking brake shoes.----Remove the parking brake levers coming through the rubber bushing .----Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Upper Ball Joint (at 12 o'clock) MAKE SURE YOU PUT THIS SAME BOLT BACK IN WITH A NEW NUT. THIS BOLT IS A LITTLE LONGER THAN THE TOE LINK BOLT!----Note: The pinch arms are just a term for the design....the bolt goes through a split....when the bolt is tightened, it clamps on the part that is meant to be held. Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.
Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Toe Link (at 7 o'clock)
Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.
Support lower arm (I used a cinder block)
Remove nut and bolt through lower arm (at 6 o'clock)
The only thing holding you back now should be getting the hub / knuckle assembly off the axle shaft.
Attach your puller again to the hub and as you tighten it the hub / knuckle assembly should start coming off the axle shaft pretty easily....if it doesn't, spray it.
The hub must be pressed out of the bearing
The bearing must be pressed out of the knuckle.
The new bearing must be pressed into the knuckle.
The NEW hub must be pressed into the bearing.
I don't have a press and had a local machine shop do this part for $50.00
I didn't have all tools and had to buy a few.
24" breaker bar $20
36mm hub socket $17
Universal Hub Puller $ 21....AutoZone will buy back but I will keep
The other tools are just a couple of sockets and wrenches....I think 18mm.
A ball joint splitter....PB Blaster (I swear by this stuff)
You SHOULD replace the HUB and bearing. I got the hub and bearing at AutoZone for $121.....tools cost $58...Machine Shop was $50.
Total cost was about $230.....dealer wanted $750.
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya
Posted on Mar 18, 2010
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