Question about 1999 Honda Civic

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Transmission engages then disengages

My 99 Civic EX problem started at a light when I accelerated the engine reved but the car only moved as if the parking break was on. I was able to pull off, turn off the car and then restart it. Then the car moved normally for about 50 feet. I turned off the car again this time for about 2 min. Started it and again went normally for about 100 ft. I have had problems with overheating recently, could that have caused the Tran. Fluid to evaporate? I have the car parked and will go check the fluid level but if that is ok, is there anything else to try? Could the Tran. fluid filter be clogged? Or the pump? Or is the Tran? I am considering junking it if it is the Tran.

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Transmission shudder

I had a similar problem on my 93 Accord after I accidentally threw the car in reverse at 50 mph, obviously wrecking the transmission. When I got it rebuilt I was told the transmission pump was to blame (clogged with "shrapnel"). I, and your car manual, recommend taking the car in to get the tranny looked at. Especially considering you just had the fluid changed which is what would normally cause the problems you are describing.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • 27 Answers

SOURCE: 01 honda civic ex is reving non stop, even the gas

check your throttle cable or most of the times its your o2 sensor remove it while the car is on and it should stop so replace them

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: automatic transmission

Fluid can leak out of the driveshaft seals, the input shaft seal, the transmission pan gasket, the torque converter or the ATF cooler and line connections. If the fluid level gets low, the transmission may be slow to engage when it is shifted into drive. Gear shifts may be sloppy or delayed, or the transmission may slip between shifts. If the fluid level is really low, the transmission may cause the vehicle to not go at all.fluid level should be checked when the fluid is hot with the engine idling, the parking brake set and the transmission in Park. If fluid is needed, add only enough ATF to bring the level up to the full mark. Do not overfill because doing so can cause the fluid to become aerated, which may affect transmission operation. If the dipstick reads low, the transmission is probably leaking. So look underneath to see where the fluid is going. If there are no visible leaks, check the radiator for ATF in the coolant. The ATF cooler inside the radiator may be leaking and cross-contaminating the fluids.
You should also check the condition of the fluid. Some discoloration and darkening is normal as the fluid ages, but if the ATF is brown or has a burnt smell, it is badly oxidized and needs to be changed. Varnish on the dipstick is another indication of worn out fluid.
You can also do a "blotter test" to check for worn fluid. Place a few drops of ATF on a paper towel and wait 30 seconds. If the spot is widely dispersed and red or light brown in color, the fluid is in satisfactory condition. But if the spot does not spread out and is dark in color, the ATF is oxidized and should be changed.
Many transmission experts say most transmission problems can be prevented by changing the ATF and filter regularly for preventive maintenance. How often depends on how the vehicle is driven. For some vehicles, this might be every 30,000 miles or two years.
The harder the transmission works, the hotter the fluid runs. The life of the fluid drops quickly once its temperature gets up above about 200 degres F. Installing an aftermarket auxiliary ATF cooler that is parallel to the OEM ATF cooler is recommended to keep fluid temperatures down on vehicles that are used for towing or are driven hard.
ATF also becomes contaminated with normal wear particles from the clutch plates, bushings and gears. The filter will trap most of this debris before it can cause problems. But many older Asian transmissions only have a plastic or metal screen that does little to protect the transmission against internal contaminants and nothing to keep the fluid clean. On these vehicles, changing the fluid is the only way to get rid of these contaminants.
When adding or replacing ATF, use the type specified by the vehicle manufacturer. GM, Ford, Chrysler, Honda, Mercedes and others all have their own specs for ATF. There is no such thing as a "universal" ATF that works in all transmissions. Some fluids meet a variety of specifications, but cannot meet them all because of the different friction additives that are required.
Ford has three automatic transmission fluid specifications: Type F (a non-friction modified formula for most 1964-81 transmissions), Mercon (a friction modified ATF similar to Dexron II for 1988-97 transmissions), and Mercon V (Fords latest friction-modified formula, introduced in 1997).

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

  • 1348 Answers

SOURCE: Engine won't start. Dash lights flash rapidly when key turned.

the battery says 12 volts but may be dropping to 4 or 5 under a load...i would suggest jumpstarting the car and see what happens.the battery should read in the high 12 volts and not less than 9.5 under cranking. the dash lights go out on your car when starting,and the alarm will go off ,and disable the ignition if the voltage is too low in cranking the car because the computer will shut it down and activate the anti theft.....check your battery posts are tight. best of luck

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

  • 88 Answers

SOURCE: '04 civic ex. When heat is set to come out at

it is likely that the link to the diverter is broken or the diverter itself is broken. This is a common problem with plastic parts in cars.

Posted on Jan 05, 2011

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1 Answer

Transmission will not engage and slips when it does engage


auto trans operates on fluid pressure. if the trans has never been serviced, more than likely the filter is plugged, and or the fluid is bad. no doubht its burned and will smell and look like it. get it towed to a shop and have the fliud and filter changed first, then check the band adjustment.recommend a trans shop do it and not jiffylube.

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i have the same car and the same problem it is your rev-limiter its a wire problem there is not much you can do but replace your wire harness and it will not burn out your clutch if you have it in neutral so don't sweat it.mine has been doing it for about 2 years its nothing that will do any real damage hondas will run forever just as long as you keep the tune ups on it.oil change,trans fluid,spark plugs etc...

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1 Answer

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it depends on how high your reving the engine. if your at the stock a3 rev limit (6900-7000 rpms), between 400 and 450whp. the shaft the gears are on starts to flex and gears separate, causing minimal engagement, which rounds off the edges of the gears.
with a almost stock a3 tranny (stock + quaife LSD), 415whp and 9000rpm rev-limit, it took 1 good race at the drags to damage the 1st and 2nd gear syncros. after a few more races the gears were moderately damaged too.

as far as a good clutch, if you can afford it, i would recommend the FX600 from ClutchMasters.

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