Question about 1996 Chevrolet K1500

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96 Chevy Silverado 350 - sparatically cuts out when accelerating

Does not cut out all the time, and never cuts out until it has been running 10 minutes or so (full temparature). Seems the days that it does NOT cut out at all are colder days (Below 40F). When coasting or idling it does NOT cut out. Only on the front side of accelerating. Once you really put your foot in it, the cut out goes away. I have replaced the fuel filter, cap and rotar, plugs and wires (used delco plugs), and air filter. My check engine light is not on, but I really don't think it works, because it does not light up when you first turn the key on like the other lights. So this may be a sensor problem and the light does not work. I'm thinking maybe crank sensor, idle air controller, or possibly a fuel pump with a bad connection.... I had thought maybe a throttle position sensor, but it will cut out at a various RPMs. What really throws me is that it is sparatic, and it has be fully warmed up before it does it.

I appreciate any help!

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  • nhunixguy Mar 22, 2009

    I have the same exact problem. I have a 1993 Chevy K1500 4x4 350 Auto. It occasionally stalls out if I don't get my foot off the gas, but mostly it just bogs down like it's going to stall out. It does it from a stop at medium acceleration and it does it around 55 or so. I just had it to the shop and they said the check engine code was for an ecv or ecm valve. I had them replace it, cost me about 200 and when I got up to speed on an undivided highway and got it up to about 55 it bog down and almost stalled on my. When I took my foot off the gas it seemed to recover. My entire cooling system is new over the last 6 months too. Help! Thank you.

  • Sledneck26 May 21, 2009

    my truck has the same problem, until warm she runs like a top. but once at full temperature. when you get on the throttle gently to medium, then let off. it will bog to death almost, so low you'd think it couldnt recover itself. My temp guage works ( on startup it will move and pin, and fall back down), but it wont move at all, no matter how long you've been driving. so i thought it was the coolant temp sensor.

    I replaced the coolant temperature sensor, but realized that want it and tested things with an ohm meter, and it read fine. but the throttle positioning sensor didnt test right when we tested it wide open. you test the throttle closed, and open. closed it got the right volts, but wide open it was supposed to read 0.6V. and mine read 5.5 to 5.6. this tells me mine must be faulty. the coolant temp sensor is connected to the throttle positioning sensor before it goes back to the ecm/pcm also.

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My truck is running the same way but when you go up hil and stomp at it shuts off with no problems and some times it will start back up but we replaced the fuel realay still does it but when you put the tailight relay in it it cranks right up we also replaced the filter today ran great for bout an 1hr then it shut off and put the tailllight relay back in and strated right up any ideas whats wrong would be great thanks

Posted on Aug 16, 2010

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If it only happens at full temp its electrical. i would try the oil pressure sensor.dont replace it as it can be tested with a ohm meter.if not that then maybe its the control module i have seen them where there slighly cracked and when the motor is hot they malfunktion

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

  • Carl Stein
    Carl Stein Feb 26, 2009

    just because the check engine light dosent work dosent mean theres no code stored.i would try autozone because they do it for free.see if that will narrow it down

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My truck runs great chevy 350 but when you go to drive it bogs down almost stalling out

Posted on Jun 15, 2010

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SOURCE: IDLE PROBLEM

Here are some of the causes of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

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SOURCE: 1997 chevy silverado 1500 350 vortech, new fule pump not working

before you drop tank again, check fuses & relay.then disconnect fuel line @ filter turn key to on position should hear fuel pump run and get gas stream out of line. if no flow from line new pump faulty be sure & remove negative battery cable first good luck.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

SOURCE: 98 Chevrolet Silverado runs rough at half throttle and past.

try removing the EGR valve and clean inside of it and manifold

Posted on Feb 17, 2011

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