Question about 1998 Mercedes-Benz S-Class
Allow the Transmission
to cool down, if possible, to avoid high heat from the fluid as well as
from the catalytic converter. Insert the intake hose of your Siphon
Pump through the dip stick tube to the bottom of the drain pan. Siphon
off as much fluid as you can. You will appreciate this later! If your
Transmission has a drain plug, you can elect to omit this step.
Raise the vehicle
on a lift, for easy access. If necessary, remove any cross members
blocking access to the pan or pan bolts. If you are unable to do this,
loosen the Transmission mounting bolts at the tail stock, and gently
raise the Transmission to gain access. (see warning below)
Remove the pan bolts, leaving two in place on opposite sides. Slide
your oil drain/reservoir into place and top it with a wide catch pan.
Back the remaining bolts out halfway. Use your putty knife to separate
the pan and gasket. Then, remove the last two bolts and carefully lower
the pan. If you find a plastic cap inside of the pan, you will know
that you are the first one to remove it since it was factory installed.
Remove the retaining clip or bolt holding the filter in place. Check
the filter stem to be sure the old O-ring seal came out with it. If
not, be sure to locate and remove it. Take a shop rag and wipe down the
valve body to remove any remaining fluid and sediment. Install the new
O-ring seal & filter from the kit, wet the O-ring with clean fluid,
install the filter and secure it in place.
Clean the pan of fluid and sediment. If it has a magnet, clean it too.
If not, install one, being sure that it won't be in the way of the
filter pick-up. Use your putty knife and blade scraper to remove any
old gasket material from the pan as well as from the Transmission
Transmission oil pan
Peening the pan.
Chock your deep well socket into the end of your table vise. Use a short extension to gain clearance, if necessary. With the pan in the upright position, carefully center a bolt hole over the socket. Place the ball end of one hammer into the bolt hole and tap the face end with the other hammer. What this does is to create a slight concave curve which will spread the pressure of the bolts to assist in an even seal of the gasket. If you are the first to remove the pan, this step shouldn't be necessary. Step7 Pan gasket Apply a thin/even bead of Permatex to the lip of the pan, being sure to circle all of the bolt holes. Carefully apply the new gasket. Flip the pan over onto a clean/flat surface and apply light/even pressure to seat the gasket. If you have the time, allow the Permatex to cure with the pan in this position for at least 10 minutes. Step8 Remove any Permatex that may have oozed into the bolt holes, before reinstalling the pan. Start the bolts by hand, to avoid cross threading. Tighten the bolts, in a zig-zag pattern, to the recommended torque. Step9 Reinstall any cross members or Transmission mounts previously removed. Lower the vehicle from the lift. Step10 Add about half of the recommended fluid then check the cold level on the dip-stick. Keep in mind that some of the old fluid most likely remained in the torque converter, unless this was an off-vehicle replacement. Add the remaining fluid, checking the level frequently. Step11 Once the cold level is reached, start the engine. Place the Transmission in drive, with the parking brake set, and allow the vehicle to idle until operating temperature is reached. Shift the Transmission through all gears then into park, before rechecking the level. If the level is over the hot mark, use the Siphon pump to remove the excess. If it is low, add the necessary amount.
Posted on Feb 26, 2009
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