I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Pajero, petrol, 3.5 litre .
The alternetor belt shredded 1 rib then came off. When i replaced the belt with the same one i took off (5PK 1120) the battery light came on and the bottom pully which has a second belt on it as well start screeching. The power steering did not work, the belt for that stopped rotating as did the all the other belts.
Upon furhter inspection i found the bottom pully (Belt Wheel) had a lot of play in it. I lined up the bolt marks with the pully marks but still the same problem.
My question how much play is there suppose to be on this bottom pully? as tightening and loosening seems to do very little if anything at all. The bolt size is 22mm(metric) if that helps.
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Hi, It is assumed you are using the correct belt for your vehicle? Better still, are you using an OEM belt or other quality belt like Gates, Dayco or Continental?
Are all your varoius pullies in good condtion and rotate freely without any excess play in the bearings, Does your alternator have an auto run-on pully? This maybe defective causing belt flutter and rapid wear (im assuming your belt drives the alternator as you have not stated your vehicle type)
Use a long wrench on the tensioner pully nut (located in the center of the pulley) Move the wrench to removed tension from the idler (this is spring loaded to maintain constant pressure on the belt) once that is done, the belt should be able to slid off the alternator pulley. With the belt removed from the pulleys, you will have to remove the engine mount bracket to be able to replace it. To do this first support the engine, then remove the bracket. You will then be able to remove the serpentine belt. Look under the hood for the belt routing diagram and re-install the belt, followed by the engine mount.
There are only 4 things that will cause a belt to squeal.
1. A bad/worn-out belt
2. A bad or misaligned pully or pulley bearing
3. A bad belt tensioner. (pulley, arm, pivot, or spring)
4. Malfunctioning or bad component (alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor, etc.)
Remove the belt and check ALL pullies to make sure that they rotate smoothly and do not have any horizontal play in them (indicating worn-out bearings). Make sure that the tensioner pully swings freely and does not bind in its travel at any point and that it is properly aligned with the other pullies. A good way to check for proper alignment is to look at the belt position on the pullies with the engine running. If the belt is running on the edge of the pullies instead of in the center, it is usually caused by a bad belt tensioner or a bad bearing on one of the other pullies.
Check the belt for chunks missing, torn or cracked ribs or shiny "glazed" edges, ribs, or back.
1) Start with the alternator.
2) Forward to the smooth idler
3) Forward to power steering
4) Down to A/C compressor
5) Back to crank pulley
6) Forward around tensioner
7) Back glancing off of water pump
8) Back glancing off of ribbed idler
9) Up around alternator (where you started)
Don't drive the car until you make sure the belt that is shredded is not the water pump belt. YOU could drive but the engine will overheat and have a more costly problem. Two things, if the lights are working but the car is not starting. It could be that the terminals are dirty on the battery AND if the belt that is shredded is the Alternator belt, the battery could be just down on charge. Do to things (1) Find out which belt needs to be replaced and have it replaced. (2) Charge the battery, maybe a friend has a charger, if so have them trickle charge the batter for at least 12 hrs. Less there's some other problem that should take care of it.
I have put belts on many vehicles, and if you have purchased the right one it should explain itself with some concentration. Most belts have a ribbed side and a smooth side. if the pully wheel is meant to accept the ribbed side it will also be ribbed. If it is meant to accept the smooth side it will be smooth (possibley with a ridge on each side to keep it centered) Just start by putting the ridges side on one pully and move the belt around each successive pully until you are left with the alternator as the last one. Usually the alternator is the one piece that can be adjusted in so that you can get the belt on and then moved back out for tightness.