Question about 1997 Saab 900
How do you install a clutch cable to 1997 Saab 900s 2.3?
1. Remove the battery.
2. Remove the clutch cable end from the clutch arm end at the wire stop.
3. Slide out the rubber doughnut from the gearbox housing which holds the clutch cable
4. Move the distribution box nut and the alarm pin attached to it (some modules)
5. Disconnect the clutch cable holder from the fender and the data link holder.
6. Remove the drivers lower panel below the steering wheel and remove the air duct as well as the knee shield.
7. Slide out the fuse box holder and ICE Box (should be a black box with many wires going to it). You can remove the instrument cluster at this point but you can also do this without removing the cluster with a little patience
8. Move the pedal spring to one side and remove the eye catch for the cable.
9. Remove the clutch cable by pulling it out from the engine compartment
10. Reinstall in the reverse. Saab actually came out with a bulletin which Needed one to install two washers at the back of the new cable instead of one. The factory cable comes with one but you can remove the 2nd washer off the old cable and install it on the new cable so two exist. This helps take up excessive pedal slack.
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
Unmhook broken cable from trans clutch arm, you may need to lever the clutch arm a bit be carefuf what you lever off of. Next remove cover from under steering wheel as you will need to access the clutch pedal attachment point. The tricky part of this is there is a spring that puts pressure on the pedal to hold the cable on, but if you take a piece of coathanger and bend a sturdy loop on the end to get hold of the tip of the spring. You then feed the wire directly under steering wheel and pull the spring back toward steering wheel and secure the wire on a cover screw, be sure to not overpull the spring. then you pull the cable toward thansmission unhook cable from trans . when you put it back together you leave trans link off until cable is through firewall and attached to the pedal and spring is released. You then must use a prybar to lever the clutch arm to get enough slack to attach cable once again be careful what you lever off of, also watch your fingers when you are attaching the cable. one more I am remembering the cable routes under a fuse holdeb at the back of the engine compantment, pull it up to access cable. And then give the cable a tug toward transmission to set the coble and it should be good to go.
Posted on Sep 25, 2009
SOURCE: How do I change the
The Saab accessory drive (serpentine) belt is self-tensioning by means of a
tensioning pulley. Excessive play means that the current belt is
spent and must be replaced. It is a very good idea to replace the idler
pulley above the tensioner pulley at this time as the bearings fail over time. You can get an
aftermarket pulley of machined billet aluminum construction with a
repalceable bearing race from Wazee Pulleys.
This pulley is superior to the stock one in just about every
To remove the belt you will need a 1/2 inch socket extension bar that will fit exactly in the top of the tensioning pulley housing and a six mm allen key. This site shows the proper routing of the stock belt and the routing procedure to bypass the highly failure prone center idler pulley if you so elect, as well as the procedure to remove and fit a new belt. Note, the belts shown on this site are for the short-belt modification only. The stock replacement belt is Part Code: 4904728 Brand:
Description: Serpentine belt for any 94-98 NG 900 4cyl. Price: $35.90 at Eeuroparts.com.
To remove the belt, you will find it best to remove the airbox to allow you more room at the top end to work. Also, jack up the car and remove the passenger wheel to give you access down below.
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
SOURCE: Radio code for 1997 saab 900s
I'm afraid if you don't have the code, you will have to take it to a local dealer or specialist radio store to have it re-coded.
Fortunately, it's not expensive.
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
SOURCE: what type of oil on 97 saab 900
If turbo in a temperate climate, use 0W40 or 5W40 synth for year round protection. If naturally aspirated, you can use the same or 5W30. If you live a particularly hot climate, 10W40 will work just fine too, and you might even be well off to go to 10W50, at least in the hottest months. Turbos generate a lot of extra heat which contributes to quick long chain molecule shear down in multi- viscosity oils. Accordingly, a 40 wt oil will quickly thin down to something more like a 30 weight oil. Oil pressure in these cars is marginal at idle, so keeping a close eye on good viscosity is pretty important, as that helps keep pressure up.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
Posted on Jun 04, 2009
Oil change interval has nothing to do with operating temperature. If your coolant is full, feel the upper radiator hose, when the vehicle is up to temp. if cool , thermostat is back from that hose,
Look for air bleeds, and read owners manual, some cars have coolant bleeds. Also, heater on high when filling coolant or risk bubbles...
My thought is that your fans may not be kicking in. They should cycle on and keep temp low enough. test them.
Posted on Sep 15, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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