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Once you have bled the air from the brake lines,clamp off the front brake hoses carefully.Does the pedal feel better now?
Then the pad /caliper fit is allowing too much play.Is the pedal the same?Then clamp the rear hose and try the pedal.Is it fine with the rear hose clamped?If so we now know the problem is at the rear brakes.One common low pedal rear brake cause is brake shoes that do not fit the drums.Remove the drums and look at the shoes,are they showing contact wear fully or just in the middle of the shoe?Remove a shoe and place it in the drum.Can you rock the shoe against the drum surface?Once drums have been resurfaced,the shoes will not fit fully against the drum allowing the shoe the flex when applying pressure to it and this can easily create a low soft brake pedal. Of course rear brake adjustment must be correct once brake shoe contact is correct.To correct brake shoe contact,have your shoes re arc-ed to fit resurfaced drums or install new drums.Don't overlook brake master cyl /brake pedal push rod adjustment too.
I read some comments about the rear brakes. Some of the base models have drums on the rear and they have a tricky brake expander on the top. Also some drums come with bearings installed and some do not. Last, the shoes may have a thick and thin shoe on each axle side. This may be because the Emergency brake needs thicker shoes. Old time front shoes had a long and short shoe with I believe the long shoe rearward.
As some people had trouble obtaining the correct set of shoes, finding the adjusters and returning them to zero; it is possible that the Emergency brake reel needs to be released to let the E brake cable to return to its fullest length. This would let the rear shoes have the most room for adjustment and retract them.
Many speak of 2 hours minimum for this project. With bearings needing to be installed in cheaper drums and more than 1 brake shoe called for, this may be a fitting project for a Professional.
Notice the question ,duh putting drum back ON.Yes I have encounterd this 3times. Make sure e brake is backed off and the adjuster is tripped and shoes are retracted, also if aftermarket shoes had to grind a little off bottom of each shoe where it rests on each side, Next time I used Toyota shoes and new drum. No problem. Seems thatlining is thicker on aftermarket shoes from napa.
Make sure the parking brake is not on, and that the brake adjuster is screw in all the way, adjust brakes after brake drum is on, from the back side on the backing plate, there will be a slot for adjustment, or you might have to knock out the tab, to be able to adjust brakes.
You need to retract the brake shoes, via the center adjuster mechanism. As your old brake wore, the adjuster moved the shoes outward. Simply move the adjuster to retract the shoes, then slide the drum on. Then, readjust the rear shoes.
You need to rotate the starwheel brake adjuster inward, to let the shoes come together. Then, you can slide the drum back on. You will need to readjust the starwheel again, after the drum is on, to obtain the proper position for the new brakes.
The new shoes are thicker than the old ones. You need to turn the adjuster in "till you get proper clearance. Self adjuster screw is often frozen... if so, use a good solvent and coat threads with white grease before re-using. Once you do this, the drum will go back on. Heres a tip: use a round file or 60grit sandpaper to knock down the rusted lip on the inside leading edge of the drum (the edge that is closest to the backing plate when installed) This edge is cut off when machining the drum, most people working at home don't have drums cut and therefore run into this problem. Don't adjust too tight, or you will burn the new linings. Allow the self adjusters to take up the slack. Good luck