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Can't get my brake drums back on my '92 Ford F150.
I've replaced the shoes on my F150 and all that's left is to get the drums back on and bleed the brakes. But, for some reason I can't get the drums back on over the newer thicker shoes. Any suggestions?
Re: Can't get my brake drums back on my '92 Ford F150.
You need to rotate the starwheel brake adjuster inward, to let the shoes come together. Then, you can slide the drum back on. You will need to readjust the starwheel again, after the drum is on, to obtain the proper position for the new brakes.
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About all you have left is the master cylinder. Do this fill the master cylinder up then loosen all 4 bleeders as they start to drip tighten them if the pedal returns just continue bleeding if not replace the master cylinder and bleed the system. I hope this helps. Take Care.
Bleed your brakes, starting with Right rear, left rear, right front and ending with left front. You have air in the lines or a bad master cylinder. Bleeding is the cheaper of two options.
Have the drum Turned, Replace the Shoes on both sides and readjust them for proper activation. When you replace the shoes you will have to turn the adjuster down so the new shoes will fit in the drum and then you will need to go through the adjusting process of backing and hitting the brakes to activate the adjusters till they catch. Doing this manually I used to tighten them to contact then back the adjuster off 4 to 5 clicks on each side. Another thing you want to check is the caliper on the side that is locking and the Line for a clog on the side that isn't locking. You can check the line by making sure you bleed the line to remove air which will stop the brake from working correctly. Make sure none of the flexible lines are kinked in the system.
Make sure the parking brake is not on, and that the brake adjuster is screw in all the way, adjust brakes after brake drum is on, from the back side on the backing plate, there will be a slot for adjustment, or you might have to knock out the tab, to be able to adjust brakes.
Remove wheel, brake drum, and brake shoes. The cylinder is the part the brake line goes into and it spreads the brake shoes apart when you brake.
Loosen the brake line but do not take off, unbolt the cylinder and then disconnect brake line. loosely connect the brake line to the new cylinder so you do not loose much brake fluid, bolt new cylinder in and then tighten the brake line. Reinstall shoes. There should be a bleeding screw/grease head in the brake cylinder, loosen this and have someone step on the brake to bleed the line, have them hold the brake while you tighten the bleed screw. Do this as many times as necessary until brake fluid only with no air comes out. Reinstall drum and tire, top off brake fluid.
First back off adjusters. Also do one side at a time so you can see how to replace the shoes in case you forget or take a picture. Sides are the exact opposite. Use a break spring push tool to remove shoe hold down springs. Make sure you do not press the brake peddle down while doing repair or you will have to bleed the breaks. Remove shoes & hardware. Use a water hose to clear away break dust. If there is a ridge you should have the drums turned on a lathe or replaced. Purchase a new spring kit for both sides. In stall in reverse order. If you have trouble removing the drums, you may have to back off the shoe adjusters with a shoe adjuster tool or large common screwdriver. Once all back together readjust the brakes & put tires back on. Use latex gloves as brake dust is highly toxic. Good luck!
It appears the rear axle shaft seal is leaking. You will need to pull the axle and replace the seal. Then check the rear end for adequate gear oil. The iron filings I am not to sure about. It sounds as if something came loose from the brakes or brake hardware and got chewed up in the drum. You will need to replace the brake shoes and maybe the brake hardware kit. Always change the shoes or pads on both sides when working on brakes, rear or front. If the inside of the drum is not perfectly smooth it will need to be turned or replaced. If this were brake fluid leaking from the wheel cylinder the master cylinder would be low on fluid and your brake pedal would go down much further than normal.
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