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Tools: 1. Combination Wrench Set 2. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet 3. Floor Jack 4. Jack Stand Set 5. C-Clamp 6. Mallet Hammer 7. Flat Head Screwdriver 8. Socket Set 9. Tire Iron 10. 1/4 in. Drive Torque Wrench
Supplies: 1. Brake Cleaner
Steps: Step 1 Park your vehicle on a solid level surface. Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.
Step 2 Remove the front wheel hub caps if applicable. Using a tire iron, break loose the front wheel lug nuts but do not remove. o Tip: Lug nuts fasten the wheel to the hub and may be on very tight. To gain more leverage, use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts.
Step 3 Using a floor jack, lift up the front of your vehicle. o Tip: Using an aftermarket floor jack, instead of the original equipment (OE) jack, can make the job easier and safer. Verify the condition of the floor jack before use.
Step 4 Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds or the frame rails are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working. o Tip: Try to find a flat, level, and strong surface to put the jack stands.
Step 5 Remove the front wheel lug nuts. Remove the front wheels and set them aside.
Step 6 Inspect the brake caliper for any signs of binding. Look for rust and uneven brake pad wear.
Step 7 Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts (sliding bolts).
Step 8 Support the caliper up and away from the working area. Make sure you do not kink or pinch any brake lines. o Tip: Use a bungee cord to secure the brake caliper out of the way and hang it on the suspension spring.
Step 9 Clean the sliding bolts and lubricate them.
Step 10 Install the new caliper over the brake pads and rotor. Attach the caliper to the mounting bracket with the sliding bolts. Tighten the caliper sliding bolts to manufacturer’s specifications.
Step 11 Disconnect the brake line from the old caliper. Attach the brake line to the new caliper using new copper washers. Tighten the banjo bolt.
Step 12 Repeat for the other side. Bleed the front brakes.
Step 13 Reinstall the front wheels. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer specifications in a star pattern.
Step 14 Remove jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.
Step 15 Verify that you have a solid brake pedal. Road test the vehicle to verify brake caliper repair.
jack up the rear of the car remove wheels and tires, remove the two caliper bolts, remove old brake pads, using a c clamp push each piston the the caliper bake in install new pads, reinstall caliper install wheels and tires lower the jack and your done
caliper bolts are torque head bolts be sure to have the proper size before trying to change the brakes
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Remove the wheel. Using an open wrench hold the lower guide pin. Remove the bolt that secures the caliper.
Pivot the caliper up and then suspend it from the frame using mechanic's wire. To remove the pads, slide the pads straight out.
Using a C-clamp, compress the caliper piston into the bore. Insert the new pads by removing the mechanics wire and pivoting the caliper back into it's place.
Clean the old bolt and apply thread locking compound. If the old bolt can not be used install a new bolt. Hold the guide pin using a back-up wrench when tightening the bolt. Using a torque wrench, torque the bolt to 26 foot/pounds. Install the wheels. Add oil to the master cylinder reservoir. Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery.
Calipers With Sleeves and Bushings
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Remove the wheel. Remove the bolt that secures the caliper to the carrier.
Push the caliper up and pivot the caliper bottom out of the carrier. Remove the pads and the anti-rattle springs.
Install the new pads by putting the anti-squeal pads onto the caliper and then sliding the new pads onto the carrier. Put the caliper top back into place. Remove the mechanics wire and push the caliper up so that it pivots back into place and the bottom.
Clean the caliper mounting bolts. Install the caliper mounting bolts and using a torque wrench, torque the bolts to 18 foot/pounds. Install the wheel. Add oil to the master cylinder reservoir. Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery.
For a wrench or for the acctual bolt size.
To remove front pads..you need 8mm allen socket to pull the caliper guide pins, then 17 or 18mm..To remove rear pads...you need 13mm socket for lock bolt on guide pins and 15mm open end wrench (thin section to hold guide pin while you remove lock bolts..I ground down a spare wrench). You DO NOT have to remove rear carriers to change rotors..just remove lock screw and angle rotor out. The B5 Passats don't have the electronic parking brake so you don't need VAG Com to change pads. Installation tips: Clean and regrease the guide pins with "synthetic caliper grease" Rear lock bolts come with preapplied thread locker and "are not to be reused"..I just wire brush the threads and use some Loctite Blue on em. I smear just a little antisieze on the inside bore of the rotors and on the lock screw threads to prevent corrosion and make next rotor change ez. Torques: Front caliper guide pins:18 ft lb Front carrier bolts: 89 ft lb Rear guide pin lock bolts:26 ft lb Wheel lugs: 89 ft lb
You will also need 5" clamp, screw type to compress calipers, be careful to slightly loosen the bleed screw while doing so or ABS system could be adversly affected. Allen wrench should be a 5/16 but the sell just a single wrench to do the job if it a bigger size. You will also need to figure out how to remove the allen head bolt, I use box end wrench on the allen wrench to torque long end down.
You will need several tools to replace the bearing besides a socket set of metric and standard sizes to remove the wheel and brake caliper.
A 36mm socket (may be rented at some auto parts stores)
An Impact Wrench for the 36mm socket (air or electric should work)
A torque wrench (IMPORTANT!)- the 3 rear bearing bolts (12mm?) need to be torqued properly or else they will fail and cause the wheel to separate, i believe they need to be at 75 ft/lbs. Please check.
Do not attempt to do this yourself unless you have the proper tools and know how to use them. I recommend getting at least the Haynes manual that the stores have or buying the Dealers Service Manual (expensive but thorough and usually available on ebay!)
These instructions came from Auto Zone's website and their free, online repair guides. Just plug in your make, model and year and you can get exact instructions and pictures for your repair. Sweeeeeeet! Good Luck!
Loosen the wheel lug nuts slightly.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the wheels.
the brake hose from the caliper. Plug the end of the hose to prevent
loss of fluid. Some brake lines have a union bolt and gasket type line
attached to the caliper. Do NOT lose the washers.
Remove the brake hose union bolt with gaskets from the caliperHave a container handy to catch brake fluid from the disconnected lines.
Hold the sliding pin and remove the bolts that attach the caliper to the torque plate.
Remove the two bolts that attach the caliper to the backing plate
With two hands, lift up and remove the caliper assembly.
the caliper pins and bolts with Lithium grease or equivalent.
Temporarily install the caliper on the torque plate with the
The sliding pins should be greased with Lithium-based grease before installation
the sliding pin and tighten the installation bolts to 25 ft. lbs. (34
Nm) on the front wheels, and 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) in the rear.
Attach the flexible brake hose to the caliper with new gaskets. Tighten the hose to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Install the brake hose lock securely in the lock hole, in the caliper.
Fill and bleed the system.
Install the wheel, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.
Before moving the vehicle, make sure to pump the brake pedal to seat the pads against the rotors.
Check for leaks.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
Remove the wheels.
Disconnect the brake hose from the caliper.
the bolts that attach the caliper to the torque plate. If applicable,
hold the flats of the sliding pin with a wrench while loosening the
caliper attaching bolts.
Lift up and remove the caliper assembly.
Install the caliper and loosely install the bolts.
the flats of the sliding pin with a wrench, then tighten the bolts.
Tighten to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm) except on Celica rear calipers. Tighten
the bolts on Celica rear calipers to 34 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
Connect the brake hose to the caliper, using 2 new washers.
Fill the brake system to the proper level and bleed the brake system.
Add brake fluid to the reservoir to fill to the correct level.
So this is what it takes to replace rear brake rotors on a 2003 Mercedes E320;
1) open the bonnet (hood) of the car and loosen/remove the cap off of the brake fluid resevior.
2) remove outer spring clamp from brake assembly (it clips in to the iner edge of the holes of the caliper).
3)using a 7 MM allen wrench, remove the brake caliper.
4) using 18 MM box wrench, remove the caliper housing assembly off of the wheel hub.
5) using a star wrench, unscrew the rotor locking screw from the rotor
6) squirt some liquid wrench on the rotor hub and knock the rotor with a hammer to work the liquid wrench in.
7) using the same hammer, knock the rotor off the hub.
8) using a metal file, lightly file old residue off of the hub and place the new rotor on the hub.
9) set the hub by screwing in the lug nuts and then screw in the hub locking screw using the star wrench, then remove the lug nuts.
10) reinstall the caliper housing assembly onto the wheel hub using the 18 MM box wrench.
11) push back the brake claiper piston to its home position and install the inner brake pad (the one with the snap clips)
12) insert the outer brake pad in the claper housing assembly.
13) slide on the caliper housing with the inner brake pad in place (over the outer brake pad) and screw in the caliper screw rods using the 7 MM allen wrench
14) on the right wheel brakes, DO NOT FORGET to slide in the brake sensor (the one with the black connector) and connect it to the connector on the caliper housing.
15) be sure to reinsert the spring clamp onto the outer brake assembly to set the assembly squarely onto the wheel (there should be no wiggle in the brake assembly after the spring clamps are installed).
16) finally mount the wheels.
17) you can bleed the brakes at this point to release any trapped air (which is unlikely) but be sure to pump the brakes after starting the car BUT BEFORE MOVING IT to re-preassurize the brake system before driving the car.
17) ONE WEEK LATER - recheck brake assembly to ensure all is okay and brake fluid.
This proposed solution is for a 2003 Mercedes Benz E320 and NOT a 2005 model as stated by the limited option selection provided by FIXYA.com when initially describing the problem.