Question about 1995 Chevrolet Lumina

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95 Lumina Sedan Over Heating (?) problem

I have a 95 lumina. Here is what it has been doing for the last couple of weeks:

1: When I start it in the morning to warm it up, it sometimes will not blow any warm air, and the temp gauge will work its way all the way over. If I shut the car off, and turn it back on, it will correct itself. However, I have been having to do this several times in a row to get it to correct. Once it is running at the right temp and I am getting warm air, if I shut the car off for a while, such as when I am running errands, etc, then start it up again, there is no issue. Basically, this only happens from a cold start.

2: The same time this problem started, I started losing coolant somewhere. There are no puddles whatsoever when I stop and shut the engine off, and I have not seen any signs of steam or smoke while driving. Yet I AM losing fluid, because I have to add some every forty miles or so.

3: I have noticed that the fan is not running. Not a big problem now because it is so cold out, but it will be as it warms up outside. I don't know if this is related to the other issues.

Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated!

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  • brian314g Feb 25, 2009


    The heater works once the car warms up. The problem is that the heater blows cold air and the temp guage goes all the way up when I start the car in the morning (or just from a cold start). It happens gradually. I have to shut the car off and start it again several times for the temp guage to go back to normal and for the heater to blow warm air (not just luke warm, very warm, the way it always has.) If I don't shut the car off and restart it, the heater continues to blow cold and the temp guage stays all the way to the right.

  • brian314g Mar 07, 2009

    Ok, sorry it took so long to get goes: Oil and trans fluid are good. The carpet and flooring are dry. Furthermore, the engine fans are NOT working either.

    We havve had some warm days now, and the heating problem in the morning has stopped. However, I'm still losing coolant somewhere, and obviously because of the fans not working, the engine temp likes to go up when Im at a stop.

    I would really appreciate any more deas on how to fix...especially the fans.

    Brian (original poster)

  • clint_brazil May 11, 2010

    After the car warms up, does the heater work? Will it run you out if you put the heater on full blast? Is the carpet wet on the passenger side front floorboard? Does the car steam or smoke out the tail pipe?



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Please check your engine oil and transmission oil dip stick. Make sure neither is a milky color. If both are OK, check to make sure the carpet on the driver and passenger sides are dry underneath the carpet. I all of that is good, the engine has to be consuming the coolant. Possibly leaking at intake manifold to cylinder head and out the exhaust instead of burning in the combustion chamber.
Let me know what you find and we can go from there.
Also, is the engine running good other than the coolant issue?

Posted on Feb 25, 2009

  • Bruce Bracey
    Bruce Bracey Mar 08, 2009

    Based on your latest observation, you have a head gasket leak.

    As the anti-freeze is consumed by the engine, the coolant volume is replaced by air. The cooling fan will not come on because air is surrounding the coolant fan sending unit instead of anti-freeze, there fore, no cooling fan and over heat.

    When you shut the car off and restart, the engines cooling system will "burp", the air is expelled and replaced with coolant from the tank.

    To verify the head gasket leak theory, add a can of radiator stop leak for head-gaskets. I believe it is the one with the copper additive.

    Add per instructions and drive the car for an hour or so to circulate properly.

    See if the problem stops after that, then you'll know what the cause is.

    Let me know.


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Ive had the same problem Ive replaced my intake manifold gaskets and it got worse but Ive pin pointed it down to either the head gasket or the Cylinder head itself.When I fire mine up in the morning it acts like its missing i give it a few seconds and it clears itself out. My oil is fine not milky but whats happening is the head gaskets blown and everytime it trys to compress air it breathes into the coolant instead of out the exhaust manifold so there for your motor fills with air pushing the antifreeze out and into the overflow and your lossing pressure behind the antifreeze and heat to keep it from opening up I hope this helps someone understand why there car is doing this!

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

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Look at replacing the may be stuck shut after sitting all nite, and it may be that after you start and run the motor, and then shut it down, the thermostat may not be openning quick enough, it may need to sit for a minute in order to open up all the way, that would account for the heater not working at first, but then later after you's inexpensive to do and it could be a quick fix...good luck.

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

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SOURCE: wheel interchange on astro and lumina sedan

They both should be the small chevy bolt pattern. Take a tape measure and measure across the lug nuts at a diagonal center to center on both. If they're the same, it will work.

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SOURCE: What type of transmission fluid goes in to a 93 lumina sedan

Dexron VI ATF (replaces Dexron III in GM vehicles.)

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turn ignition switch to OFF position , (all power door locks will lock and unlock) . use a fused jumper wire and jump programming connector to ground . see picture , press any button on one transmitter , door locks , fuel door and trunk lid release should activate in about 2 seconds , first transmitter is now programmed , repeat this last step using a 2nd transmitter , if only one transmitter is being used , disconnect jumper wire and test remote(s) . cheers . if procedure is to technical , ask someone mechanically inclined to help .


Posted on Jan 11, 2009

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SOURCE: Replacing driver's side mirror on a 1994 Chevy Lumina sedan

There are screws that hold the door panel on. They are typically located behind the small round plastic covers. If you look at the bottom of the door handle, you will see them. Also on the door lever, there might be a screw. After removing all of the screws, take a flat head screw driver, and gently pry up the panel. There are plastic clips that hold the panel securely to the door. Doing this will pop them out one at a time. Once the door panel is loose, lift it up, and it should come right out. Be sure to disconnect any wiring harness connectors before fully removing.

Posted on Mar 24, 2009

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SOURCE: how hard to replace

Here are the instructions on how to replace your starter.

WARNING Remember that the positive battery cable to the starter motor is electrically "hot" all the time. You must open the circuit by disconnecting the negative battery cable before servicing the starter motor.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the front lower air deflector panel by locating the deflector retainers. These are push-in retainers and should be carefully pried loose. Remove the ambient temperature sensor, if equipped.
  4. Remove the two torque converter covers. They are retained by small screws.
  5. Remove the starter solenoid "BAT" terminal nut (the large one) and disconnect the battery positive cable from the starter motor. Remove the S terminal nut and disconnect the solenoid wire.
  6. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts. Use care. The starter is relatively heavy. Do not allow it to fall. Take note of any thin metal shims between the starter and engine block. They may be required at installation.
To install:
  1. Verify the correct starter motor has been obtained. Position the starter motor, including any shims found at removal, to the engine block and install the mounting bolts finger-tight until seated. Torque the bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
  2. Position the wires to the starter. Install the nuts finger-tight, then tighten the starter solenoid "BAT" (heavy cable) nut to 84 inch lbs. Tighten the starter solenoid S terminal nut to just 20 inch lbs. (2.5 Nm).
  3. Install the torque converter covers and tighten the torque converter cover screws to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  4. Install the front lower air deflector panel by pressing in the plastic retainers.
  5. Lower the vehicle.
  6. Connect the battery negative cable. Start the engine to verify correct operation.
please do not hesitate to ask me further questions about your vehicle.
please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience today with fixya.

Posted on Dec 27, 2009

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