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A/c, rear window heater won't turn on and air location won't work

Sears changed the battery (bad cells under warrentry) and now the items that are controled by fuse 17 don't work but the fused is good and no others are bad. The air location only allows air to go to the defroster and when moved to anything else the tempeture control does not work and blows cold air until the switch is moved to the defrost location and warm air returns

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  • masspool_dj Mar 06, 2009

    I have that very same problem!!?? what could it be?


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SOURCE: 2003 dodge caravan air vents will not change position?


Posted on Mar 07, 2009

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SOURCE: fuse for the rear window defroster on the Dodge Neon

ok dude.... simpe questioneasy answer is 10. in the position#EIGHT

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

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SOURCE: 2007 Dodge 2500 Mega Cab No Heat, AC, Defroster, Vent fan

possible faulty heater resistor block or control head

Posted on May 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1997 dodge intrepid heater/ac fuse keeps blowing

I have a 96 Intrepid, and none of the signal lights work. I tried replacing the fuse, but this did not remedy the problem. Could this be a loose connection?

Posted on Jul 06, 2009

  • 41 Answers

SOURCE: Rear defroster doesn't work.

rear defrosters are an apllied film of semi metalic strips and if you get you windows tinted often the tint man accidentally nicks these strips cuasing the defroster to malfuction check for breaks in the srips

Posted on Dec 14, 2009

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1 Answer

The check engine light was on, so I changed the thermostat on my 03 Envoy. Now the air conditioning won't work. It blows hot air out of the inside vents, with the heater turned off.

When you changed the stat, you probably disconnected the battery. This caused the HVAC to lose its calibation and during the recalibration, one of the mode control actuators or the associate doors failed. You can try to force another recalibration by doing the following;
1) turn all HVAC controls and switches to their OFF or CCW positions.
2) disconnect the battery for a few minutes (>2 min.)
3) reconnect battery and don't touch any HVAC controls for a few minutes.

If this does not return the system to working order, you will have to have the actuator(s) replaced. Attached is a diagram of their locations.


Oct 17, 2011 | 2002 GMC Envoy XL

1 Answer

Won't start after short trip like its vaper locked


Your problem may be one of the following:
First check or just replace the fuel filter. Usually located under the car in front of the rear axle, drivers side.
Next, the fuel pump may be worn out. Usually they just stop working (running).
Next, check the fuel pressure regulator. Usually located on the front fuel rail, drivers side.
Is the vacuum line attached? Not leaking or rotted?
Also, do you smell a strong fuel odor when it won't start? May be one or more stuck-open injectors, or the coil pack is bad.
Checking these in the order listed will more than likely fix your problem.
The clicking noise indicates the battery can no longer run the starter, which also means the fuel pump won't run either.

It could be a fuel issue. How old is the fuel filter? Can you hear the pump run for a few seconds when you turn the key on? Try turning the key to ON without trying to start engine three times waiting for the pump to stop running each time. Then try to start the engine. If it starts, Its a form of Vapor lock caused by the extreme heat we have had lately.

If none of this works, try a new fuel filter first. From there have someone check the fuel pressure regulator and then the pump. If you are in need of a new pump, take my word for it and spend the money to get one from FORD, and not from your favorite parts store. Most parts store parts are made in China and they are JUNK.

Have you hooked a scanner to the computer and checked the oxygen sensor(s)? If they are bad they could lean out the engine.

Check the following:
Cooling system working properly including fans.
Under hood fuel lines touching coolant or heater hoses.
Fuel lines under vehicle close to or not shielded from exhaust pipe, converter, muffler. Fuel lines pinched or crushed.
Fuel filter changed recently.
Fuel pump pressure.
Cheap(Bad) gas.

Aug 26, 2011 | 2003 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Need to replace heating core

  1. Disconnect and remove the negative battery.
    CAUTION After disconnecting the negative battery cable, wait 2 minutes for the driver-s/passenger-s air bag system capacitor to discharge before attempting to do any work around the steering column or instrument.
  2. Drain the cooling system into a clean container for reuse.
  3. Remove the instrument panel by performing the following procedure:
    1. Turn the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position.
    2. Remove the knee blocker from the instrument panel.
    3. Remove the steering column; do not remove the air bag module, the steering wheel or switches from the steering column.
    4. From under the driver-s side of the instrument panel, disconnect the following items:

      Instrument panel wiring harness connector from the 100-way wiring harness connector at the left side of the inner panel. Side window demister hose at the heater/air conditioning housing demister/defroster duct on the driver-s side.
    5. Remove the glove box.
    6. Reaching through the glove box opening, disconnect the following items:

      Two halves of the heater/air conditioning system vacuum harness connector. Instrument panel wiring harness connector from the heater/air conditioning system wiring harness connector. Instrument panel wiring harness connector from the passenger-s side air bag module wiring harness connector. Side window demister hose at the heater/air conditioning housing demister/defroster duct (passenger-s side). Two halves of the radio antenna coaxial cable connector. Two instrument panel wiring harness connectors from the passenger air bag ON/OFF switch wiring harness connector. Passenger-s side air bag ON/OFF switch wiring harness from the retainer clip on the plenum bracket that supports the heater/air conditioning housing just inboard of the fuse block module. Two lower passenger-s side air bag module bracket-to-dash panel nuts.
    7. Remove the upper cover from the instrument panel.
    8. Remove the 3 instrument panel-to-door hinge pillar screws.
    9. Remove the 4 upper instrument panel-to-dash nuts.
    10. Using an assistant, remove the instrument panel from the vehicle.

  4. If equipped with air conditioning, discharge and recover the air conditioning system refrigerant.
  5. Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the evaporator. Plug the refrigerant openings to prevent evaporation.
  6. Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes.
  7. Disconnect the heater/air conditioning system vacuum supply line connector from the T-fitting near the heater core tubes.
  8. In the engine compartment, remove the 5 heater/air conditioning housing-to-chassis nuts. If necessary, loosen the battery hold-downs and reposition the battery for access.
  9. Remove the cowl plenum drain tube from the heater/air conditioning housing stud; it-s located behind the cylinder head on the cowl.
  10. From the bottom of the heater/air conditioning housing, remove the floor duct.
  11. On the passenger side, remove the heater/air conditioning housing-to-plenum bracket screw.
  12. Pull the heater/air conditioning housing down far enough to clear the defrost/demist and fresh air ducts, then, rearward far enough to clear the mounting studs and the evaporator drain tube to clear the dash panel holes.
  13. Remove the heater/air conditioning housing assembly from the vehicle.
  14. Remove the heater/air conditioning housing upper case.
  15. Lift the heater core from the lower half of the heater/air conditioning housing.a35714c.gif


Feb 13, 2010 | 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

1999 windstar, rear heater was only blowing on med/high no stoppe

be prepared to renew both the blower motor and blower resistor. if it were just a bad resistor it should work on hi-speed only. make sure you have power to the motor when on hi speed. bad blower motors will kill the resistor. follow the water tubes from under the drivers side of van to the point where they enter the van, that is where unit would be located on the inside. be prepared to remove some seats and wall covers.

Dec 22, 2009 | 1998 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

1997 GMC Savans 35500, Rear Air only warm air

well what I see you have two problems with you A/C ..1- if the compressor is cycling very fast , the system is probably low in freon , this ban takes like 4lb of freon, now, 2-if we have the right amount of freon and the rear A/C don't work and all the vents are working fine back there for sure the problem is the expansion valve located close to the rear evaporator , that valve get stock open allowing to much refridgerant get in to the evaporator and no cooling at all ,in the back,... you can also have a bad low pressure switch located on the accumulator, making the compressor cycling very fast ..the first you have to do is check the pressures if they are OK , change the low pressure switch..then go to the second problem

Aug 02, 2009 | 2003 GMC Savana

1 Answer

Heater wont work a fuse maybe? some how I doubt it. the rear window heater works. fan dead perhaps? no fan at all. not sure about heat.

Hi: Sounds like a possible heater resistor problem. First check to see if heater fan working, unplug heater under hood and put 12 volts to it from the battery with a wire (single black wire running to back of fan). If works then problem probably the resistor which is located on the fan housing under the hood to the right of the fan. The resistor has wires to it running from the heater fan, 2 - 7mm screws holding resistor in place, check resistor to see if any of the 3 elements are melted off, if so replace. Note: Rear window defrost has nothing to do with heater fan. Hope this helps...

Feb 26, 2009 | 2002 Chevrolet Blazer

6 Answers

2001 tahoe front heater not working, rear heater blows warm air

I have the same problem with my 2001 Tahoe. The front blower is working, its blowing strong, but its cold air even with the temp setting as high as it can get. The rear blows hot air. The engine temp guage is at about 210ish which is close to being normal (220). I just replaced the thermostate a few months ago, I don't know if its bad again, or it I deluted the antifreeze too much and it frooze the heater core, or if the heater core just went bad. Any one know what the cause could be?

Jan 05, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Tahoe

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