I have seen timing belt overhaul kits. They may be worth looking at.
You can check at the library for Hayes
repair manuals and the www.Autozone.com
do it yourself instruction website.
Here is instructions from the UK. They have pictures.
If you need to remove the crankshaft pulley nut with rope method, you can determine the TDC of a cylinder by tracing the sparkplug cable back to the distributor cap and looking at the rotor position. It should be in the firing position
Here's some info in found if you want to remove the water pump as well, or you can ignore that.
From my research the idler bearing probably should be changed. If it goes the belt will slip and destroy the engine.
The real work is getting
to the belt, not replacing it
When you get one set of marks (camshaft or crankshaft) to line up then look at the other set. It is right since the engine is working. Probably the crankshaft gear will have 2 teeth with lines cut in them, one line in the valley or a chip on a tooth. You can mark the unit also. Remember do not rotate the camshaft/crankshaft with the belt off. Keep them aligned with the marks.
Remove the serpentine belt using a 3/8" drive breaker bar or ratchet to release the tensioner.
Remove front timing
Remove splash guard under engine
Remove vibration damper guard
Remove ignition coil cover from top of engine
Note: the belt can be replaced without removal of the splash guard. The vibration damper guard can be removed from the top. It is held on by two 10mm bolts. One is toward the driver's side (about 4 o'clock if looking at damper) and the other one is toward the bottom (about 6 o'clock). You'll have to feel around for them, but you can get them with a ratcheting wrench. If you cannot feel them, they are visible from below with the splash pan removed
Turn the engine clockwise until the timing
marks align as shown on the upper cover.
Remove upper timing
Remove tensioner upper mounting bolt.
Undo lower mounting bolt.
Twist tensioner to free plunger.
Note: If the timing
belt hasn't been replaced, it is a good idea to replace it at this time. If the tensioner is leaking fluid, replacement is necessary. Even if you are not replacing it, it must be removed to compress the plunger for installation of the belt when finished. Be sure to make note of which side of the tensioner unit faces out.
Do NOT rotate the camshafts or crankshaft with timing
belt removed. Engine damage will occur!
Spin the tensioner and idler pulleys. Replace if excessive bearing noise or grinding is heard.
Place belt around crankshaft pulley and right-hand idler.
Place belt over camshaft pulleys.
Position belt around water pump and press over tensioner pulley.
If reusing the old tensioner, you must compress the plunger again. Make sure the hole in the plunger lines up with the hole in the body of the tensioner and place in a vice with the side that faces out pointing up. SLOWLY compress the plunger using the vice, stopping frequently to allow the hydraulic fluid to move. Once the hole in the plunger is even with the hole in the body, insert a nail, pick or similar through to hold the plunger in place. Make sure it is long enough to be grabbed and removed once tensioner is installed.
Install the tensioner, torquing mounting bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft lb)
Remove locking pin/nail/pick
Install upper timing
cover and make sure timing
marks still line up. Wait 5 minutes for tensioner to fully extend.
Rotate the engine by hand clockwise two full revolutions, making sure marks line up each time.
Reinstall covers and serpentine belt as shown:
Also, there is a mark
on the crankshaft gear that should line up with a mark
on the engine when the timing
marks line up. I do not have a picture of it, but you should see what 'm talking about..
Actually replacing the water pump is quite simple. First, drain the coolant:
When the belt is off, remove the 7 bolts that hold the pump to the engine. Clean the gasket mating surface and install the new pump. Then continue with installing the timing