Clunking sound in front end when going over bumps - both sides
I have a 2001 Lincoln LS - 8 banger.
I have new struts and upper mounts. All nuts are tight.
Sway bar and bushings are in good shape.
Breaks in good shape, break shield is tight.
Ball joints in good shape and bearings are in good shape.
I cannot find what is causing a clunking sound on both sides when I go over a bump. Has anyone run into this - What is the fix.
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could be all sorts of different things! I would lean towards something common(Given the age of your vehicle) something like strut mounts, or possibly control arm bushings. depending on the loudness of the noise
I have 06 daytona with same problem clunking noise front passinger side Master Mechanic's checked steering and suspension components could not find the source. Problem is that sometimes noise stops then comes back. I will try to find the source myself tomorrow let you know what I find.
It could be a couple of things.
Loose or worn out strut - (jack up car, remove tire and shake the strut really hard to see if it's loose. Check for signs of leaking or damage to strut)
Missing rubber isolator under front spring (visually inspect the suspension while tire is off).
Broken sway bar mount or missing rubber in the mount on the frame. (Lay under the front and look for where the sway bar mounts to the frame. Make sure everything is tight and the rubber is still in it.
The solution is the upper strut mounting plate. To fix it you need to take out the strut tower and take apart the strut. The faulty part is the plate that has the 3 studs that actually mount the top of the strut to the frame. You may want to also plan on replacing the strut as well, when i took mine apart, the strut piston wouldnt go back into the strut body, that means its shot. Also if one side needs this done the other probably does too. The upper strut mount is about 20 bucks only from a dealer and the strut is about 60 from any auto parts store. hope this helps
CAUTION: The bearing and seal assembly is press-fit onto the upper mount. The mount washers must be installed in the correct orientation. NOTE: Be sure to check the spring insulator for damage before assembly. If the outer metal splash shield is bent or damaged, it must be carefully bent back, so it does not touch the locator on the bearing and seal assembly.
NOTE: New gas struts are shipped with the rod in a locked down position. To extend the new strut, remove the external tie down and/or rotate the upper end of the rod, counterclockwise.
Install the coil spring insulator, coil spring, and upper mounting parts to the new strut assembly. Make sure the spring is correctly seated in both spring seats.
Dust Boot (Part of 18045)
Front Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket Nut (3 Req'd)
Front Shock Absorber Nut
Front Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket
Front Suspension Bearing and Seal
Front Coil Spring
Front Spring Insulator
Front Shock Absorber
Tighten to 35-40 Nm (25-30 Lb-Ft)
Tighten to 55-63 Nm (40-46 Lb-Ft)
CAUTION: Do not over tighten the lock nut; damage to the lock nut or piston rod could result.
Install new rod lock nut and tighten it to 55-63 Nm (40-46 lb-ft).
Remove the spring compressing tool.
Position the strut assembly into the vehicle. Install the three mount-to-strut tower nuts. Tighten the nuts to 35-40 Nm (25-30 lb-ft).
Partially raise the hoist.
Position the strut assembly to the steering knuckle. Install the pinch bolt and tighten it to 115-132 Nm (85-97 lb-ft).
Position the stabilizer link to the strut assembly and install the retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 90-100 Nm (66-74 lb-ft).
very common problem is the sway bay end links that attach to the strut from the sway bar. They sound like a light chuckling knock over bumps. The bushings that hold the subframe up wear or the bolts loosed due to the bushings wearing. usually the rear ones The bushings are 2 piece ,upper and lower Tighten with 18mm socket
Check the macpherson struts to ensure they are not loose. One way to check is visually in the engine compartment. Check the top of the struts to ensure the nuts are not loose. Another is to raise the side of the van where you hear the clunk. Raise it so the wheel is off the ground. Grasp and shake the strut to see if it is loose. The struts should not be loose, but you never know. As the strut is certainly ivnolved in bumps and rotates when the wheel turns, I would check there since you have already explored the bushings and links.