I have a problem with my car heater blowing cold air. Someone said I should do an air bleed to clear it. How is that done? The original problem started when I had a coolant leak and when it was repaired I found that my heater was no longer blowing hot air. Any help with this?
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Re: How do you do an air bleed?
With engine cool, remove rad cap, top up coolant to 1" or 2" from top in rad. Start engine & turn your heater on, (not defrost) and let it run like that until it gets up to normal operating temperature. Keep an eye on fluid level in rad, & top up as needed. Let it run, until your rad fan comes on, & off, 2 or 3 times at least. That's telling you that the thermostat has opened & hot coolant from engine has returned to rad for cooling. Every once in a while while your waiting, rev the engine slightly for a few seconds, just to assist the circulation & help bleed air out. Feel the heater now & you should feel hot air coming out. Top up rad to 1'' or 2", put cap back on, all the way, top up your return bottle to proper mark/level, and you should be good to go.
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If your cooling system has any bleed screws incorporated, crack them once in a while as well. 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada heater blows cold air. Had a new heater .
I agree with your logic. Attached vid addresses bleeding. Sounds like at low rpms, not enough flow to transfer the heat. So bubble or maybe a partially obstructed core. There are a couple of vids on clearing a core... GOod luck, let us know if you figure it out.
with car cold turn heater to hot, remove radiator cap, start car & check radiator remains full if not top up. Follow correct bleeding procedure if needed. Water sound normaly indicates low water allowing air into the cooling system & heater core. Also check the A/C drain under the vehicle is clear (poke a piece of wire up it then blow with compressed air)
appears we have an Air lock scenario and you will need to perform a
the vehicle on level ground, when cold remove coolant filler cap,
start engine and leave to idle, turn heater on full and blower to
max. When engine reaches operating temperature watch and listen near
coolant filler, keep clear as gurgling and hopefully a boil over
should occur. Top up with very warm coolant and wait as it may do it
for heat inside vehicle if warm replace coolant cap but keep an eye
on temperature gauge as the ~Air lock may have moved on from heater
matrix/core so proceedure needs to be carried out again from COLD.
persistent boil ups/over attention must made in the cylinder head
gasket area, or possibly water pump?
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AIR BLOCK IN HEATER MATRIX INSIDE DASH, LOOK FOR A BLEED VALVE UNDER HOOD, IF NOT YU NEED TO DISCONTECT HIGHEST HOSE AND FILL RAD, LET AIR OUT RUN WITH RAD CAP OFF TO ALLOW FLOW, FAILING THAT GET A RAD DESCALANT TO CLEAR CRUD FROM SYSTYM
Try bleeding it. It takes more than one time to bleed a bimmer's system. No heat from the heater simply means that water have not made it through your heater core yet (mostly air). But on the other hand, you mentioned air escaping out of the radiator cap. I'm doing research for my own for the same cause. Someone mentioned earlier that it's a symptoms of bad head gasket. I'm still searching that.
the electric motor that open the heat door looses electrical connection there by the door stays on cold / it is located under the a/c heater assembly / which requires removing the whole dash and heater assy// also bleed all air out of coolant system
there are three doors / 1/ a/c heat 2/ mode /defors 3/ recurculation email@example.com