Question about 1985 GMC K1500

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1985gmc acts vey funny

Ok i had posted an issue with it earlier but i figured out the noise was loose bolt on manifold but after replacing the spark plugs it is bogging out and putts alot. It is sucking fuel like crazy was running fine then it just went crazy on me the arb is not to old but i did i have an issue with it a few months back a friend took it apart somewhat played with the needle and then it was fine great gas millage and all please tell me what i can do to fix this problumj... anything will help

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  • Nicole Harmon Mallia Feb 24, 2009

    ok sorry i have a 1985 gmc sierra we have changed the spark plugs cause it was bogging out and we changed the wires after we did that there was a hissing noise wich i believe was air leaking by the manifold that was loosse. but now it is still bogging out and it is sucking gas baddly i had a carb issue a few months ahgo a friend took it and cleaned the little needle in there off and bam it worked he is gone now and i dont know how to do that or if it could be something else ploease anyhelp you can give it would be great thank you nicole

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    rebuild the carb.

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Could be possible vacuum hose leakin check all your hoses for cracks

Posted on Mar 28, 2009

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Ticking noise coming from manifold


Ticking noise coming from the manifold? There are two types of manifold....1. Instake manifold and exhaust manifold. Please indentify and apply as needed.

Intake manifold
1. Double check the nuts and bolts around the intake manifold if you worked on it and had it serviced.
2. Spark plugs loose. Yes!! I've seen this before and it comes the rear of the manifold..very confusing.
3. Check your valves and have them adjusted. (This will require a trained and qulified mechanic).
4. Check your motor oil and power steering pump fluid.

Exhaust manifold
1. Check for loose nuts and bolts.
2. Check the O2 sensors connections...some models have 2-3. They are the sensors sticking into the pipes.
3. Your catalytic converter may have a defect. If possible, remove it and shake it to determine failure. (I've seen and experienced the so called honeycomb inside it breakign apart.)
4. Check the exhaust manifold heat shield if applicable.
.

Jul 04, 2014 | 2003 Toyota Avalon

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Replacing spark plugs and coils on Mazda Tribute V6


Here are DIY step by step instructions for replacing the spark plugs and / or coils in a Mazda Tribute V6 (based on a 2001 Tribute).

This is a lengthy procedure, but don't be frightened, it works...I have done it a few times. This will save you a few hundred $$$ if you do it yourself. Make sure to read all of these instructions, preferably while looking at your engine, before you get started. You will need 2-3 hours to do this job.

NOTE 1: IF YOU HAVE A SPECIFIC ISSUE WITH CYLINDERS/COILS 4, 5, OR 6, YOU ARE IN LUCK, YOU ONLY HAVE TO REMOVE A PLASTIC ENGINE COVER. IF YOUR ISSUE IS WITH CYLINDERS/COILS 1, 2 OR 3, OR YOU ARE CHANGING ALL OF THE SPARK PLUGS, YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. THESE INSTRUCTIONS COVER CHANGING ALL OF THE SPARK PLUGS AND CAN BE USED TO REPLACE ANY OF THE COILS.

NOTE 2: IF YOU ARE THINKING OF REPLACING YOUR SPARKPLUGS BECAUSE YOUR ENGINE IS RUNNING ROUGH, PLEASE DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND GET THE ENGINE SCANNED FIRST TO MAKE SURE THAT A COIL IS NOT THE ISSUE. YOU CAN REPLACE YOUR PLUGS AND BAD COILS AT THE SAME TIME WITH THIS PROCEDURE. YOU WILL BE UPSET IF YOU DO THIS WORK TO REPLACE ONLY YOUR SPARKPLUGS, THEN YOU FIND OUT AFTERWARDS THAT A COIL WAS BAD AND YOU HAVE TO DO IT AGAIN LIKE I DID.

1. Tools: Pliers, ratchet wrench, ratchet wrench socket extension, 8 mm socket, 10 mm socket, Spark plug socket, flat head screw driver, plastic zip tie, plastic cup or bowl. Not necessary, but very helpful: Magnet on an antenna to pick up dropped nuts/bolts.

2. All directions are given from a point of reference as if standing in front of the car, except for removing the coils and plugs from firewall (back) side of the engine.

3. Using flat head screwdriver, loosen band clamp on large rubber air intake hose where it connects to the intake manifold on the right side of the engine. Slowly work rubber intake hose off of intake manifold.

4. Unplug wires from back side of air idler valve - small unpainted metal part mounted on top of air intake on manifold (close to where the air intake hose connects to intake manifold).

5. Disconnect small rubber hose from top of the ERG valve (black metal disk near back right side of manifold.

6. Remove the two bolts that hold ERG valve to manifold bracket. Use the 10 mm socket and ratchet to remove these. If you are trying to remove the 8 mm bolts, you are removing the wrong bracket. Be careful, there is a gasket between the manifold and the ERG valve, make sure it does not fall out when removing bolts. Place bolts and gasket in cup.

7. There is a small plastic sensor just to the left of the ERG valve towards the back of the engine. If you look at how the sensor is attached to the manifold, you will see that the back left side bolt that holds this sensor, also connects the intake manifold to a plastic wiring harness at the firewall. You will need to remove the 8 mm nut from this bolt to free up the intake manifold in a later step. Now remove 8 mm bolt from other side of sensor. Might need the socket extension to remove these. Place nut and bolt in cup.

8. Unplug wires from the back of the sensor discussed in the previous step (7).

9. There are 3 hoses of different sizes plugged into the back of the manifold. Unplug all three hoses from manifold. Remove zip ties if needed to slide hoses off. Left hose may have a compression clamp, use pliers to loosen clamp while sliding hose off.

10 There are two large black plastic wiring connectors supported by the back left side of the manifold. They are supported by plastic clips with plastic barbs. Use the flat head screw driver to pry off the support clips from the manifold - don't worry, you won't break them. You will be able to plug them back in later.

11. There are still a few things attached to the intake manifold, but there will be enough flexibility now to lift up the manifold and replace the spark plugs.

12. Remove the plastic engine cover - there are three 8 mm nuts to remove. You will need the socket extension. One the nuts are removed, you will have to wiggle the cover off especially on right side. Place nuts in cup.

13. The plastic intake manifold on top of the engine is now exposed. If you look down at the front side of the engine, you will see the coils for cylinders 4, 5 and 6 (going from left to right). The tops of the coils will probably say "Motorcraft" on them. Also, there are two cables attached to the top of the manifold - leave them alone.

14. There are 8 bolts that hold the intake manifold down. The bolts are located in two rows of 4 across the top of the manifold. Loosen them all using the 8 mm socket with extension. Note: these bolts do not come completely out when fully loosened.

15. Slowly work the intake manifold loose by lifting up on each side. NOTE: Work the manifold off of the bolt discussed in step 7 (back right side of manifold), NOTE: Work slowly watching for anything that might be hanging up. You should eventually be able to get about 4" of clearance between the back right side of the manifold and engine, and 8-10" of clearance on the back left side. Move around to the passenger side to help lift off the manifold. While working on the back side plugs, you will stand on the passenger side of the car.

16. Once you are able to lift up the manifold, get a cup, block of wood, anything suitable approx. 5" tall to prop up the manifold (place under center of manifold). This will keep the manifold off your hands while you are working.

17. The three coils on the back side of the engine are now visible if you are standing on the passenger side of the car (cylinders 1, 2 and 3) Cylinder 1 is closest to you - passenger side, cylinder 3 is furthest from you - driver side.

18. Each coil has one 8 mm bolt holding it down. Take the 8 mm socket and ratchet and remove the bolts from the 3 coils on the back side of the engine. Place bolts in cup.

19. Lift each coil away from engine (do not pull on wires plugged into the coil). Pull each coil's silicon rubber tube out of spark plug hole, bend tube to get it out without pulling on the coil wiring. Leave coils plugged in and lay them to the side. NOTE: If you are looking to replace a coil (or coils) simply unplug the coil wires from the old coil, and plug into new coil at this stage.

20. Using sparkplug socket and socket extension, remove each of the back 3 spark plugs.

21. Install the new spark plugs (gap them first if they are gap type).

22. Slide each coil rubber tube back into sparkplug hole and bolt down coil (8 mm bolt). Congratulations! The hard part is over with!

23. Make sure the rectangular intake port gaskets are clean on the engine (before lowering the intake manifold back down).

24. Slowly work the intake manifold back down to the top of the engine - make sure that the manifold is back on the bold discussed in step 7, and that nothing is binding.

25. Bolt the manifold back down (eight bolts, 8 mm, still attached to the manifold). Use 8 mm socket with extension. Gradually tighten the bolts going from bolt to bolt until they are all tight (don't fully tighten one bolt first).

26. Remove coils and spark plugs on front side of engine. Replace spark plugs and re-install coils. Same procedure as back side of engine, but much easier. Replace coil(s) if desired.

27. Re-install the two plastic wiring connector support clips to the left side of the manifold - push barbed clips into manifold.

28. Reconnect 3 hoses to back side of manifold. Place new plastic zip tie on hose that had zip tie.

29. Reinstall plastic sensor on back right side of manifold (8 mm nut and 8 mm bolt).

30. Plug in wires back into back side of plastic sensor.

31. Reinstall 10 mm bolts and gasket on ERG valve and tighten to manifold.

32. Reconnect small rubber hose to top of ERG valve.

33. Reconnect large air intake hose to intake manifold and tighten hose clamp using flathead screwdriver.

34. Plug wires back into back of idle air control valve (this was uplugged in step 4).

35. Leave the plastic engine cover off for now. Check all around the manifold and make sure everything is reconnected.

36. Start engine - should start and run normally (or better). If not, go to trouble shooting at the end.

37. Reinstall plastic engine cover (three 8 mm nuts). Make sure engine is not running when reinstalling plastic cover.

TROUBLE SHOOTING: If engine light comes on (and wasn't on before changing plugs), or if engine runs rough, stop engine and double check that all wires and hoses are plugged back in. If you find wires or hose left disconnected, reconnect them. Disconnect car battery for a few minutes then reconnect (to clear out engine alarm). Restart car, engine should run well, engine light should be cleared.

on May 01, 2010 | Mazda Tribute Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2000 kia spectra serpentine belt keeps breaking off


Have you ever put new spark plug wires on it?

Nov 03, 2012 | 2000 Kia Spectra

1 Answer

Bogs down in low rpm when in park, nuetral, and first gear. It does not bog in when idling, in higher rpm or any gear over first, but there is still a little bit of knocking. It seems to act like a...


REPLACE SPARK WIRES THAT COULD BE MISFIRE PROBLEM, ANY TIME OLD SPARK PLUG WIRES IS REMOVED THE WIRES WILL BREAK INSIDE PLUG BOOT CAUSING SPARK PLUG NOT TO FIRE.REPLACE SPARK PLUG WIRES.CLEAN FUEL INJECTORS, CHANGE AIR FILTER,CHECK ALL VACUUM HOSES ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD LOOKING FOR INTAKE VACUUM LEAKS.

Jul 12, 2011 | Subaru Legacy Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2002 Escort sohc a/t, Recently cleaned iac, replaced spark plugs, replaced fuel filter, My car starts but does not stay running, If i hold the gas pedal down and keep the idol higher it will stay running,...


it may be the idle control valve, you can try cleaning it,
its just under the bottom of the 4 inlet manifold pipes.

It's held on with two 8mm bolts one at the top and one at the bottom.
1. Ok after removing the two bolts and dropping the idle control valve down unclip the wires and remove it.
2. Now soak in some petrol and spray wd40 on it shake it aroung to make sure you got it all clean and then leave it in a container with some petrol in it to soak.
hope that helps

May 13, 2011 | 2002 Ford Escort

1 Answer

Intakegasket for grandam gt


Exactly what is the wrong? Need the part? Need to know torque adjust or porcedure to take off?

For
1994 Pontiac Grand Am 3.1L SFI OHV 6cyl check this procedure for Intake Manifold...
(see Figure 14)
The 3.1L engine is equipped with upper and lower intake manifolds. The upper intake manifold is also known as the intake manifold plenum.

CAUTION The fuel system is under pressure and must be properly relieved before disconnecting the fuel lines. Failure to properly relieve the fuel system pressure can lead to personal injury and component damage.
  1. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Remove top half of the air cleaner assembly and throttle body duct.
  4. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.
  5. Disconnect the EGR pipe from exhaust manifold.
  6. Remove the serpentine belt.
  7. Remove the brake vacuum pipe at the intake plenum.
  8. Disconnect the control cables from the throttle body and intake plenum mounting bracket.
  9. Remove the power steering lines at the alternator bracket.
  10. Remove the alternator.
  11. Label and disconnect the ignition wires from the spark plugs and wire retainers on the intake plenum.
  12. Remove the ignition assembly and the EVAP canister purge solenoid together.
zjlimited_601.jpg

Fig. 14: View of the intake manifold and related components

  1. Disconnect the upper engine wiring harness connectors at the following components:
    Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Idle Air Control (IAC) Fuel Injectors Coolant temperature sensor Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
  2. Tag and disconnect the vacuum lines from the following components:
    Vacuum modulator Fuel pressure regulator PCV valve
  3. Disconnect the MAP sensor from upper intake manifold.
  4. Remove the upper intake plenum mounting bolts and lift off the plenum.
  5. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail and bracket.
  6. Install engine support fixture special tool J 28467-A or an equivalent.
  7. Remove the right side engine mount.
  8. Remove the power steering mounting bolts and support the pump out of the way without disconnecting the power steering lines.
  9. Disconnect the coolant inlet pipe from the outlet housing.
  10. Remove the coolant bypass hose from the water pump and the cylinder head.
  11. Disconnect the upper radiator hose at thermostat housing.
  12. Remove the thermostat housing.
  13. Remove both rocker arm covers.
  14. Remove the lower intake manifold bolts. Make sure the washers on the four center bolts are installed in their original locations.
When removing the valve train components they should be kept in order for installation the original locations.
  1. Remove the rocker arm retaining nuts or bolts and extract the rocker arms and pushrods.
  2. Remove the intake manifold from the engine. Remove and discard the gasket.
  3. Using a suitable scraper, clean gasket material from all mating surfaces. Remove all excess RTV sealant from front and rear ridges of cylinder block
To install:
  1. Place a 0.12 inch (3mm) bead of RTV, on each ridge, where the front and rear of the intake manifold contact the block.
  2. Using a new gasket, place the intake manifold on the engine.
  3. Install the pushrods in their original locations. Coat the pushrods with prelube.
The intake pushrods are marked yellow (5 3 /4 inch long) and the exhaust are green (6 inches long). Make sure the pushrods are properly seated in the valve lifters and rocker arms.
  1. Position the rocker arms in there original locations and tighten to specifications. Refer to the procedure earlier in this section.
  2. Install lower the intake manifold attaching bolts. Apply sealant 12345739 (or equivalent thread locking compound) to the threads of bolts. Tighten the vertical bolts first then the diagonal bolts to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
  3. Install the front rocker arm cover.
  4. Install the thermostat housing.
  5. Connect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing.
  6. Fasten the coolant inlet pipe to thermostat housing.
  7. Connect coolant bypass pipe at the water pump and cylinder head.
  8. Install the power steering pump in the mounting bracket.
  9. Loosely install the serpentine belt.
  10. Connect the right side engine mount.
  11. Remove the special engine support tool.
  12. Fasten the fuel lines to fuel rail and bracket.
  13. Install the upper intake manifold and tighten the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  14. Install the MAP sensor.
  15. Connect the upper engine wiring harness connectors to the related components removed earlier.
  16. Connect the vacuum lines to the PCV, vacuum modulator and fuel pressure regulator.
  17. Install the EVAP canister purge solenoid and ignition assembly.
  18. Install the alternator assembly.
  19. Connect the power steering line to the alternator bracket.
  20. Install the serpentine belt.
  21. Connect the spark plug wires to the spark plugs and intake plenum wire retainer.
  22. Install the EGR pipe to the exhaust manifold.
  23. Attach the control cables to the throttle body lever and upper intake plenum mounting bracket.
  24. Install air intake assembly and top half of the air cleaner assembly.
  25. Install the brake vacuum pipe.
  26. Fill the cooling system.
  27. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the vehicle and verify that there are no leaks.

For PARTS REPLACEMENT check in THIS LINK: carpartswholesale.com

Hope helps.

Feb 01, 2011 | 1994 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

Hi, I need to replace the 3 rear spark coils and spark plugs. What is the easiest way to do this? Remove the Intake manifold? Aloha, Jim


It's hard but possible to do that without removing intake manifold , if you don't have experience and right tools , probably removing the intake is easiest way.
If you want to try hard way , you need to clear some room for your hands by taking vacuum lines out, that go to throttle body and throttle cable with bracket (two 10mm heads bolt) , on the other side of manifold take out pcv hose (just pull it out from intake manifold and turn it out of your way.don't worry about clamp , it will come out and go back the same way when you push it in)
The worst part of this job without removing intake manifold is disconnecting harness plugs from coils and braking loose spark plugs.(Practice first on front harness connectors.)
Good luck.

May 25, 2010 | 1994 Lexus Es 300

2 Answers

93 chevy silverado bogging something fierce.


I don't have a a fix for ya but a couple of suggestions.I've found that the OBC's on cars will almost always store a code if any of the electronic controls fail. The fact that you have no check engine light tells me that the failure can only be in the manifold vacuum or fuel delivery system. You may be better able to isolate the problem by monitoring your intake manifold with a gauge mounted in the cab and attached to the intake manifold. Same with fuel pressure. I'm thinking you'll find that the intake vacuum is low and pulsatile, indicative of a blown or corroded head.

Jan 11, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

Replace cracked drivers side exhaust manifold.


Replacing the manifold is pretty straight-foreward. Remove the bolts holding the y-pipe on that side, remove the spark plug wires, and take the bolts out that hold the manifold on. Remove the old exhaust manifold gasket, scrape any remainders off, put the bolts through the manifold, put the gasket on the bolts(keeps it in place so you're not fishing it around to get it in the right spot) and put the bolts in finger tight only. Once you have all of them in, use a torque wrench to tighten them to 132 inch/lbs. Once they are all there, you then tighten them all to 22 ft/lbs. If you hit any of your spark plugs taking it off, you may want to go ahead and replace them now. Put the spark plug wires back on, and hook up the y-pipe again.

Oct 21, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet S-10

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