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1996 chevrolet cavalier leaking antifreeze by compressor

I dont see any leaking hoses, and when i went under the car it is dripping from around the compressor onto the metal shield.. any ideas?

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Its your water pump

Posted on Feb 24, 2009

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Where could a coolant leak be that drips from the protecting shield under the radiator on a 2001 jeep grand cherokee limited?

The short answer is anywhere above the shield. Look for darker (wet) trails on the front / back of the radiator (where possible) as a sign of a leak origin. Clamps between hoses and radiator openings, thermostat housings, soldered locations such as those around a filler neck, seam, etc. are also candidates for leak locations as well. Inspect the radiator cap too (when cold). Feel along the underside of hoses, support hardware, etc. that slope downward toward the radiator - as coolant may be running along the bottom side of the hose from a different leak origin location. Don't forget that the cooling system is under a small amount of pressure - so a wet spot on the radiator (or anywhere for that matter) could be the result of a stream of coolant that is squirting there - but coming from somewhere else. You could check this after running the engine to normal temperature and shutting it off - then look around for a stream squirting under the hood.

Apr 09, 2015 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

3 Answers

I cranked my car up this morning and for the last few morning when i warm it up it gives a burning smell. I dont see any leaks. What could the problem be?

check for oil leaks around the engine manifold check rocker cover for leaks if its a diesel check the turbo charger for leaks check wiring around exhaust manifold

Nov 07, 2014 | 2008 Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Benz C Class

1 Answer

How to replace buick lacrosse cxs high pressure steering hose

3.6L V6 Buick Lacrosse (Allure) CXS, 2006: The usual place for the power steering pressure hose to leak copious amounts of fluid is at the pump-end fitting. Don't bother trying to replace the teflon seal on the outside of it in an attempt to stop the leak. This fitting has a hidden internal seal that is designed to allow the metal part of the hose to float in the fitting even after the fitting is properly tightened. The only lasting repair is to replace the hose. On the 3.6 engine, this job is more difficult than average because the hose is a long multi-segment affair that wraps all around the subframe. Some pro shops are even hesitant to take it on, possibly because of poor GM instructions. It takes about 3 hours of labor, unless you have done it before. GM's removal and installation instructions are misleading and confusing; some might say just plain erroneous. They presume a GM hose is being installed, which apparently is not like the original hose, and that requires additional parts and effort. The solution is to install an aftermarket hose such as Edelmann PN 92226; the brand you choose really does not matter, they are all the same. The GM procedure also calls for removing motor mount bolts and lifting the engine. I found that to be unnecessary.

Remove the right side wheel and splash shield, which is held on by three plastic push pins. Undo the two steering rack heat shield snaps, using needle nose pliers to reach into the small space, and remove the shield . Take lots of pictures to remind yourself how the hose is routed around the subframe. You may ask yourself how it can possibly be removed; I know I did. Disconnect both ends of the hose. The pump end is best reached with a stubby length 18mm wrench. Despite appearing to be tight in there, the rack end is easy to loosen with a regular 18 mm open end wrench. The 18mm fitting you want to loosen is the one closest to the firewall. Very important: unhook and remove all of the plastic clips than hold the hose assembly in place, unhook the clips that retain a wire bundle to the assembly, and slide off all of the protective sheathings and cushion rings. From underneath, pull the pump end of the hose down under the subframe, and let it hang there. This will allow the metal sections of the hose to start to come away from the subframe rails. Begin to work the rack end of the hose outward toward the wheel well; it is tight in there, the end of the hose has a convoluted metal section, and and at first it may seem impossible to get that past the exhaust down pipe and out using the small space between the rack and the engine block, with the metal section of the return hose also getting in your way. Don't give up; it just takes patience. As the hose assembly comes out into the wheel well, you will be able to gradually turn the metal mid-section of the hose and feed it under the A/C compressor. You are basically turning the whole hose assembly counterclockwise (as viewed from above) in a series of steps until it is out. Eventually, with careful twisting and turning, it will come out. The key is to use the clear space under the A/C compressor and forward to the radiator to maneuver it. With the old hose on the floor under the car, study how it is laid out, and what sections lay along what parts of the subframe. Put the new hose on the floor, and orient it exactly the same. Follow the instructions that came with the new hose to install the included o-ring on the flare fitting at the rack end. I like to shrink a piece of heat-shrink tubing onto the metal flare to protect the o-ring from cuts as it's stretch over it. Once the o-ring is in place, pull the heat-shrink off and discard it. Protect the hose fittings with caps or tape to keep them clean while feeding the hose into position. Starting at the rack end fitting, begin feeding the hose: From under the car, find the gap that's underneath the A/C compressor, between the front of the engine block and the front aluminum subframe cross rail. Feed the hose out toward the wheel well through that gap. Once you get the convoluted metal end piece through there, you can start to turn and maneuver the hose assembly clockwise. Going a little at the time, it can be worked into place, basically following the reverse of the removal. Maybe it's learning curve, but for me the new one went in better than the old once came out. Verify the the o-ring is still on the rack-end fitting, lube it with ATF, and hand start the threads into the rack until you are sure it is threading in properly, and it is not cross-threaded. Tighten it to no more that 20 lb-ft. The pump end fitting already has a white teflon seal on the outside, so all you need to do is lube it, start the threads by hand, and tighten it securely. . I hope this is write-up is helpful. Good luck with the repair!

Feb 01, 2012 | 2005 Buick LaCrosse

3 Answers

There is a slight drip of transmission fluid coming from one of the cooling lines on my 95 jeep cherokee sport. when the car is parked or at a stop it drip a little bit more. how do i fix this

those fittings can be tightened, or you could remove them and get/install a new washer-if you do try to tighten them, just go easy so you do not strip it out.

Jun 14, 2011 | Jeep Cherokee Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Water on floor passenger side after it rains and after air has been running 2000 grand prix

Ac hose leak?
leaking heater core?

Hint: it leaks when it RAINS

If it were related to the heater core or the AC drain, it would be leaking when it is not raining also, so those diagnoses are not logical.

The grand prix has a long history of floor leaks from seal failures around the air intake under the windshield cowling, where RAIN water runs in.

May 04, 2011 | 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

I am leaking antifreeze under my blazer onto the ground but not inside the vehicle. My blazer does not overheat, my heat will work sometimes while driving but as soon as I stop or slow down it blows cold....

you need to figure out where the coolant is leaking from. Some common areas are

the water pump in which case you would be able to remove the splash shield from under the front of the vehicle and using a flash light be able to see coolant coming out of the weep hole of the water pump.

The intake gaskets. Look in the corner of the intake valley where the head and lower intake meet right under the a/c compressor. If you see coolant its leaking and needs to be replaced.

The radiator, you'll be looking for wet spots on the side tanks of the radiator. Loose upper and lower radiator hoses could also cause this.

If you can't find anything visually you'll need to bring it in and have it pressure tested.

Nov 23, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

My front carpet keeps getting wet. i think the AC drip hose is clogged but i dont know where it is.

mcdevito75 here, The drain hose is located just under the evaporator under the glove box. From under the hood follow the metal lines of your A/C going thru the firewall, these lines attach to the evaporator. It"s a tight fit but look under your dash around the glove box.

Jun 18, 2010 | 2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette

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Rattling sound coming from serpentine belt area with slight leak

The Sweet Smell is Coolant
Most likely your going to have to replace the water pump. That will be for you to determine.
If your going to do it yourself,you'll be there a couple of days.
It maybe more than you want to do,if you need a manual,I would take it to a repair shop

May 09, 2010 | 2006 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Have a small coolant leak dripping onto transaxle

It could be as simple as a leaking hose, but it may also be a corroded alloy hose fitting nipple.

Get is seen to by a mechanic before it fails completely, causing complete loss of coolant and expensive cooked motor.

Jun 05, 2009 | 2004 Audi A4

1 Answer

Just filled engine coolant as light came on yesterday, signifying low coolant. today after about a 15 min drive, light came on again but temp gauge was at normal operating temperature. After I parked i...

i have a 97 grand am. it started leaking anti freeze underneath the car. i went under to check it out, and found the heater hose that goes in the heater core was leaking. i tred to get the hose off and the clamp which was a *****. the clamp was right on top. i finally had to cut the hose, and when i tried to get the rest of the hose off, the damn thing broke it was plastic. now i've got a new piece from the pontiac dealer. he said it was metal, because they all leaked sooner or later. my problem is' i can't get the rubber out of the hole. i didn't mention it is nearly impossible to get to. when i stick my finger in the hold it feels like there is something metal in there. i've tried wire hooks. bent needle nose pliers, screw drivers. i just can't get it out. help

Jul 30, 2008 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Am

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