One night i was driving my car fast and had my system cranked i had a kicker L7 and a 750.1 amp hooked up. i hit 115mph and all my electrical stuff shut off. i didnt think nothing about it then i just pulled into my house then shut the car off. the next morning my car started but air didnt turn on. i turned it back off to see if it would come on. the air came on but then my car would not start and it acted as though the battery did. i got a jump and drove down the road then when i shifted into second the car died yet again. i got a jump and it did the same exact thing. well i got it towed to the shop and they told me i had burnt all the wires on the alternator and it cost me 200 bucks to get it fixed. was this because of my system and driving to fast? and to prevent this from happening again what should i do?? any ideas?? i dont want it to happen again so i need to fix asap. thanks!!!
It may be from you system and the demand from driving at night. to prevent this form happing again you need to put in a second battery with a second battery relay. you may alsow look in to gitting an amp copasiter.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You will know if you have them O.O.S. ( out of synk ) they will simply not sound right. You want them hitting in the same polarity.
Make sure you check to see that you have disabled the on board amplifier(s) before just cutting the wires.
You didnt add any information about what type of automobile you have, other than saying "Delco" so I am assuming its a GM vehicle?
If so, you will want to Google " speaker wire color for (make/model/year)"
You have a 40amp fuse for the key switch, and the main component on the 80amp circuit is the alternator. I would disconnect the alternator, hook up the battery without the fuse, and use a test light across the 80amp fuse terminals to see if the short has been removed.
Might need to up-grade the alternator to a higher amperage out-put. Check with your local Audio dealership for what up-grade might be necessary. The one test that you can make is turn you audio off and see if the problem still exist; although, the alternator may have already taken a hit.
You could have a drain on the battery overnight, take cables off and if it starts evry time after that could be a bad alternator take that wire off over night and leave cables hooked up and see if it starts or replace it,,, does it always start after you have been driving it or warmed up like you said,,, sounds like a drain check all the dome lights and acc to see if something is on after you turn off the key.....
If the alternator has been bench tested and passed then you need to check the big wire for 12volts at the alternator. If you have 12 volts then you need to trace the other wire to the PCM. The charging system is computer controlled and its possible the computer is the issue. To diagnose this correctly go to mitchell1diy online and pay the ten bucks for all the proceduers and wiring diagrams. If the charging system light is off then try this. Charge up the battery. Then turn the lights on for a couple minutes to drain the surface charge. Then using a 12v meter hooked to the battery check the draining voltage while cranking. A good battery will maintain a 12 or better voltage even if the truck does not start. If it goes down fast then the battery is bad. Alot of times when a battery is tested using a professional tester they pass. You may need to remove the fuel pump relay so the truck does not start for this test since your testing the cranking amps. Also with the key out of the ignition and doors locked and the negative unhooked at the battery you can check for parasitic drain. Using a amp meter hooked up inline battery to cable you should have less than 1/10th volt. If any more then you have a component not shutting off. Pull fusses 1 at a time till you find the system thats the issue. Watch the meter as you pull fuses
So found the problem it was the seilnoid on the wasnt working properly store said good put it back hit with small hammer fired up so just replaced whole strarter now fires first time sounds awesome had lot of trouble tracking it down went threw new battery's thinking that was prOblem but was bad starter unit try this maybe will help u to