2002 Dodge Dakota Club Cab
5.9L
K&N cold air
MSD coil/wires/controle modual/4500 rev limit.
Got this truck a month ago and it would not pass DEQ (emitions). So the dealer started tossing O2 sensors at it. After 3, a new gas cap (Evap code) tightening a louse spark plug, full synthetic oil change it passed.
BUT <--- I hate thoes
It is no knocking. I noticed it at about 3k rpm. Now its almost getting worse. around 2k and louder. Befor the oil change there was No knock. Now there is. Is synthetic bad for my 5.9? Does any one know if I need to tighten down a rocker or some thing? Also the new oil freed up 500rpm at 55mph and my oil preasure is at 3/4 when the old oil was 1/4 on the gauge. And the exost sound is changing so slightly over time.(dont know if that helps)
Plz any info would be good. Oh I only run super in this truck. Tried Reg a month ago and it didnt like it.
SOURCE: 1995 Dodge Dakota Pick up
go to Didgeforums.com.
I had a similiar problem, found the solution there. It was the wiring harnes on the drivers side under the hood, just above the wheel well. there are a cluster of wires in a bundle. I unpacked the bundle carefuly and sure enough the were two or three wires all coroded, had wite powder from corosion. repaired the connections and bingo. I posted details at dodgeforums.com. browse around there. I posted pictures as well. this is a common problem.
SOURCE: 1997 DODGE RAM 1500 360 VERY LOW IDLE
I think you have ruled out the engine with all the parts you have replace. The transmission torque convertor is in lock up mode all the time. The engine is having to hard of a time to stay at the normal idle. The over drive clutches and soleniod are most likely damaged in the transmission.
I think you should take the vehicle to a trasnmission shop , The can check the torque convetror soleniods and pressure control soleniod.
The oil light coming on bothers me. I know you have the rebuilt engine in the vehicle but I think the oil pump in the engine is starting to go out or could be weak. The lower bearings connected to the crank shaft might be starting to leak. Have the oil pressure checked .
SOURCE: my 2001 3.9 dakota have a misfire condition at cold
My 2001 Dakota now works fine, I took it to a good reliable shop after much frustration. The problem was the crank position sensor in combination with an bad oxygen sensor. This was a very unusual problem with no consistency therefore hard to diagnose. Crank sensor $190.00 cdn oxygen sensor $130.00 cdn $300.00 in troubshooting, repair and diagnostics. Repaired by Gerald at AutoPro in Corner Brook, Newfoundland. Thanks Gerald
SOURCE: Engine code suggests Knock sensor is bad...but where is it at?
knock sensor is on the block, easy to do. not sure exactly where it is on your specific car but it looks like a fat bolt with 2 wires running out of it. but also check the wiring if its good for the knock sensor
SOURCE: loud knocking or tapping sound when engine is cold
Take our oil pan off from under your car and there should be 4 to 5 covers over a rod bearing. wiggle each one of them and find out which one is loose. take that cover off of the one that is wiggling and get the rod bearing out. order a new one from auto zone and replace it. The knocking in your motor can end up where you will need a whole new motor. so get it done before its to late.
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Yes 10/30
Srry I dont know if it was the same. It was off the lot needing a change. The old oil just looked old. They dont know what was in it.
no not a diesel.
no codes. the light doesnt even come on. to me it sounds like a rod not a sharp ping like a lifter but a dull knock.
97k and I will try that this week end. Will update then. Thanks
changed the oil and filter and no change.
so I have come up with a way to describe the noise, I had a old 70 f250 with a ltd 429 in it and a man 4 speed, if I shifted in to 3rd or 4th too soon it made this knocking noise, same exact noise just quieter. Thoughts?
no not to me. sounds like a rod or rocker, but i have driven it for 3 weeks now like this and its not getting worse, If it was a rod or rocker it would have blown under the driving that I do wouldn't it?
could tightening the spark plug cause this, adding compression to a cylinder that maybe had a problem undetectable with out compression? I did get it off a lot, and not knowing why the previouse owner traided it in kinda scares me now. Maybe they left the plug lose to keep the compression off that cylinder?
it's either the grade of gas you use or that aftermarket air filter is bypassing the map/maf sensor... or you have an air leak somewhere between the air filter and intake. i may have missed something.... but does the motor have a misfire ?
does it sound more like a rattle ?
how many miles on that motor ? ... i would suggest dumping the synthetic and replacing it with a heavier weight oil....10W40 or such...
Robert
what are the codes you are getting... and does the knock sound mechanical... or a rattle sound ?
Robert
is that a diesel ?
did they use the same weight oil in the synthetic that you used with the regular oil ?
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