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Re: i wont to change the oil pan on my 1992 eb ford
You probably wont like this but here we go
place a frame of some kind on the engine so as to hold the engine up, then put the car very high on body stands, you don't even have to undo your hoses. then from underneath remove your k member, change your sump put it all back, this is how your ford dealer would do it. the only other option is totally removing the engine
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not sure what you wont to know but the sender will be mostlikly near the oil filter,with ignition on short the wire and the oil pressure gauge will read high or oil pressure light will go off youll know you have the wright sender
Your alternator should be recharging at 13.5 - 14 volts DC. I would say that is what makes your battery flat if you are only recharging 8.5 volts. Replacing the alternator would be indicated. Since that model car was only produced in Australia and New Zealand I dont know the availability of parts in your area. I did locate one on Ebay.AU for AU$188.00 with the shipping and could be posted to you. You may check your local auto garage as to the possibility of rebuilding the one you have......Mike
5/8 socket the three front ones are easy to get but there is a trick for the rear ones ,jack car up set on stands ,chock wheels for safety plus e on with a hydraulic jack and a piece of wood so you won't damage oil pan jack motor up and take of the two motor mounds or just the bolts that hold them in place then lower motor it should lean forward now you have more room to play with , good luck
It is recommended that you lift out the engine before attempting to replace the oil pan. Once the engine is lifted you can remove the bolts, remove the pan, clean all the old gasket material.
Remove the rear main bearing cap oil seal
Remove the timing cover oil seal
Clean all the mating surfaces and seal grooves
Install new oil pan front cover seals
Install a new rear main bearing cap oil seal
Install new oil pan side gaskets on the block
Make sure the tabs of the front and rear seal fit properly as these are critical spots
Attach the oil pan to the engine block and install the retaining bolts
YOU carnt have a transmission oil leak from the front axle on a Falcon as they are Rear wheel drive but could be the hose going to the radiator over the front end leaking But the rear end of G/Box should be only the OIL SEAL.
does your oil light come on because if your oil light comes on and the the car is cold there is no knocking but when the car warms up you hear the knocking its going to be your oil pump and the oil pump screen
Hmmm...I don't think the clearance on your16v engine are that much different than the 8 valve models. On them, all you do is loosen the passenger side engine mount and jack the motor up. Be sure to use a block of wood so you don't bend anything. If you have access to a hoist or can build a support to use a come-along to winch it up it makes things much easier. If fo some reason one does have to loosen the steering yoke, the couplers are down where it attaches to the cross member. There is a pinch bolt you loosen and then it will slide.
If you're losing enough oil in 45 minutes that the oil light comes on or the engine begins rattling, you have more to contend with than an oil pan gasket. OP gaskets drip, not pour. I've installed a pan w/ no gasket and not had the severity of oil loss you describe.