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Jack the vehicle up at proper jack points and lower onto jack stand or stands.remove drivers side wheel. Use needle node pliers and a screwdriver to remove the cotter pin in the axel nut and determine the size of the axel nut. It will most likely be metric 28mm to 36mm. Use an impact to remove the axel nut. Now you will need to remove one or both of the ball joints. Start with the bottom one first and hold the axel in place and pull out on the hub. After you have the hub off of the axel note the splines and how the line up. Now turn the hub so that it is out of the way. You may be able to just yank the axel out of the transmission. If it didn't come out easily you will need a crow bar to gently pry the axel out of the case. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the transmission case. It's aluminum and it will crack and break if you beat on it. Just pry gently and with the transmission in neutral ( be sure to chalk the rear wheels so the car won't run you over) slowly rotate the axel and pry until it comes out. If that doesn't work you will need to rent a slide hammer. Thread it to the free end of the axel and forcefully slide the weight out to knock the axel about of the trans. Installation is reverse. DO NOT USE A HAMMER to force the axel back in you will mushroom the threads and never get the nut on.
most likely the bearings in the hub are rusted to the axel. If you work at it you can use a point air chisel to push the axel shaft out you will have to replace the bearing in the hub. worst case you could take the hub and axel off together and press the axel out in a press. either way you will have to replace the hub bearing.
Remove the wheel cover and loosen the drive axel hub nut. loosen the the wheel lug nuts raise the vehicle and support it well. NOTE: you will have to be working under the car be very careful. remove the drive axel hub nut. To prevent the hub from turning, insert a screwdriver thru the brake caliper and into one of the cooling slots on the rotor. remove the control arm-to-steering knuckle. Check for the ABS sensor and remove it out of your way. Separate the drive axel from the hub. If stuck remove the brake caliper and rotor. Push the axel out of the hub with a puller or you can use a good solid broom handle and drive it out. If you are removing the right side axel you will need a slide hammer and adaptor to separate the axel from the trans. If you are removing the left side, carefully pry the axel out of the trans. with a large pry-bar positioned between the inner CV joint and the trans. case. Use the subframe as a pivot point. Hold the CV joints so they do not separate inside the rubber if going to reuse them. Lubricate the new seal with multi-purpose grease before you install it.
The answer is NO... you do not pry it 'OPEN." I'm assuming you've already removed the cotter key and the 1 1/4" nut from the axel hub? The DOJ (Dual Offset Joint) that is inserted into the differential side of the trans has a retaining ring which "COMPRESSES" when you pry the DOJ out using a large pry bar or extra large screwdriver. The same 'COMPRESSION' happens to the ring when you install the new axel.... once fully inserted, the ring 'EXPANDS' inside the differential splines creating enough tension to keep the DOJ in place.
you could try using a Quick boot, just cut the old one off with a trimming knife no stripping required,just wrap the quick boot around and use the weld adhesive fit new clips and the jobs done