99 Honda Odyssey daytime running lights working intermittently
The passenger side DRL works sometimes, and then for no reason, at other times does not come on, and starts buzzing. The passenger side high beam will not work at that time either. When the DRL lights do work, the passenger side high beam does also. I replaced both of the bulbs, and had the car tested on the computer at the shop, but no problem was found on the computer, and the new bulbs behave the same way.
I had the same sort of problem. I removed the DRL relay from behind the glove box, (a dark gray box, marked as DRL RElay, A screw driver will easily remove the cover from around the plug. Removed the circuit board, and resoldered about twlve connections, they looked brownish around them which indicates overheating, as a result of greater resistance from a poor connection. Fixed in 1/2 hour, from removal to driving.
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On my 2007 Honda CR-V The DRL code appeared on the dash board. Additionally I had only one high beam (on the passenger side); both low beams were fine, but I did not have a Daytime Running Light on the drivers side. The DRL code was really misleading because the real problem was that the high beam element in the headlight bulb was burned out. Note that the daytime running light is not a seperate bulb -- it is the high beam element which is powered at a low voltage. Once I replaced the head light bulb everything worked fine and the DRL code on the dash board was gone. So if the DRL message appears what you really need to do is replace the headlight bulb (there are YouTube videos which show how to do this - but search for headlight replacement, not for DRL fix). Be careful not to touch the new bulb with you hands since premature burnout can occur from the grease off your skin. I got my bulb from Wal-Mart for $8.88 (it's a 9003/HB2 for the 2007 CR-V) -- that's a pretty cheap fix.
the daytime running lights control unit is behind the glove box. You must first remove the glove box to access the control unit. However, the fuses that supply power to control unit functions are accessible in several fuse boxes. the No. 3 and 8 fuses (15A) and No. 14 fuse (40A) in the engine compartment fuse box, the No. 5 fuse (7.5A) in the driver's kick panel fuse box, and the No. 6 fuse (10A) in the passenger's kick panel fuse box all supply power in some way to the DRL unit. Other inputs that can affect the DRL system include a faulty parking brake switch, faulty combination light switch, faulty headlight relays or blown bulbs, and even the brake fluid float switch.
The problem with the DRL issue describd in the above posts is the DRl module(it needs to be replaced). The buzzing relay and intermittent on/off of passenger side DRl are indicators that the module needs to be replaced.
Bad solders in DRL relay located left side of steering column below change drawer behind dash. It will be indicated with a stamp DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHT RELAY. Remove it and redo the solders to the relay contacts in the unit. This will fix the DRL light in dash, return the DRL system to functioning and will also fix headlight not working problem.