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Re: radiator fan runs all the time when heat or a/c is on
Don't know about an Escort but on many vehicals, that is normal. Take a look at a friends car and see for yourself. Some cars have two fans. One is controlled by the temp sensor and the other comes on imediately when the AC is turned on. The reason it happens with the heat as well as the AC, is that when you turn the heat on, the AC compressor comes on in order to dry the hot air so that your windows don't fog. It sounds like crazy talk I know but like I said, check it out on a friends car and see for yourself.
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I had similar problems 2 times with the automatic heat / AC module.
I suppose your system is automatic too.
First time the commands were working erratically acting weird. Sometimes was heating at full capacity blowing heads off. At other times it was not starting at all.
The whole module had to be replaced.
Second time if the car stayed in the sun the AC was heating, after starting the engine and cooling started only after achieving greater speeds (above ~60km/h). Whenever the speed decreased the system began to heat again eventually. It turned out that the engine cooling fan was broken and had to be replaced. That fan cools both the engine radiator and the AC radiator. If it is faulty your engine might be at risk of overheating at low speeds.
Some cars are designed to have the fan run for a few minutes after you
turn the car off. But if doesn't stop until the battery drains, then it
might be a faulty switch or temperature sensor.
Or, if the fan stays running when the engine and radiator are cool you have a
very cheap problem: The fan thermostat is stuck closed. A new
thermostat will fix the problem--the hardest part of replacing it is
finding it. Follow the wires from the fan to the switch--it is usually
on the bottom tank of the radiator. Drain the radiator first and save
the coolant to put back in after you replace the thermostat. NEVER OPEN A
If that wasn't it then check the following:
to see that your coolant level is correct. Top up as necessary.
your hand on the radiator (with the engine off) and feel if it is as
hot at the top as it is at the bottom. If not, your radiator may be
clogged and need flushed or replaced. (Flushing is cheap. Replacing the
Do you get heat from the heater? Leave it
turned on high and see if your fan stays running the next time. If it
takes care of the problem that could mean you have a kinked radiator
Hope this helped (remember comment and rated this).
Assuming they checked the controls under the dash and everything is working, lets try to bleed the air from the cooling system. An air lock in the heater core could stop it from getting warm. You will need a gallon of antifreeze and a jack to raise the car. Here we go: remove the radiator cap. Set the parking brake, transmission in park, block the rear wheels. Jack up the front of the car so that the radiator is higher than the engine. Start the engine and put the heater controls on the hottest setting but don not turn the heater on. With the engine running, look in the radiator, the coolant at this point should not be moving, or flowing through the radiator because the thermostat has not reached the temperature required for it to open. If the coolant is flowing at this time, then the thermostat is open and should be replaced. Let the engine warm up and watch the coolant level. When the thermostat opens up, the coolant level will drop, and you will be able to see the coolant flowing or moving in the radiator. Add enough antifreeze to fill the radiator ack up. The coolant level will probably drop again, Add more coolant as required. Repeat this process until the coolant level stabilizes and no longer drops while there is flow or movement of the coolant. Replace the radiator cap and lower the jack. Turn the heater on. If the problem was an airlock in the heater core, you should now have warm air blowing from the heater.. Something else to observe is the cooling fan for the radiator. If the electric cooling fan was running the whole time the engine was running, then the switch controlling the fan is bad. The fan should not come on until the radiator is hot. If it runs all the time, the coolant won't get hot enough for the heater to work. Let me know is this works.
I would venture to say that if you hit the dash and the motor started running then the problem would be in the heater control assembly mounted in the dash, like bad wire to Heater switch connection. A bad connection can jenerate a lot of heat and start melting things unless you find the problem soon enough. The switch may already be damaged inspect switches and wireing for any vissible damage and replace as required. However if everything looks ok with the heater control assembly, Their are a few more things you can check to be sure of before relpacing the heater blower motor. Turn the heater controles to the high heat and fan on high as well, settings and remove the heater blower motor pig tail and check to see if power is getting to the motor,( use a 12 volt test light at the wire harness side of this connection ) also check for power going to and leaving the blower motor resistor assembly ( mounted to the side or top of the blower motor housing ). If so equipped. If you find no power getting to the motor at this point then you will half to start working your way back through the wireing towords the heater controles until you find the problem. Using your test light. Now if you did have power going to the motor then replace the motor. Good Luck From Ernie @ RedDeer, Alberta, Canada.
You have a radiator fan motor that is not running either due to a thermostatically controlled temp switch,(Located on the back of the radiator) a failed fan relay (in the engine compartment fuse /relay box) or a bad fan motor. You can troubleshoot by checking for 12V DC to chassis ground at the fan motor temp switch. If you have power in you can jumper with a wire the switch wires and see if the fan runs. If it does not run then you need to check the fan relay and motor.
To test the fan you can run a wire from the battery to the fan and another wire to chassis ground to see if the fan runs. If after directly connecting 12V DC to the fan motor and it does not run the fan has failed.
As far as the you either replace it with another one or... have to figure out which 2 wires control the fan motor and jumper them out to see if the fan runs.
hi this could be due to a faulty radiator switch, this is the one normally connected to either the bottom side or top side of the radiator, what sounds like is happening is that when the water gets to the temperature that the fans are supposed to kick in at the switch is not connecting inside it to turn on the fans in time...hope this helps
I am going to assume that you have the Automatic climate control on your car. it gives you an auto fan mode, and temperature options. Often the problem does not lie in the blower motor, but rather, the climate control module. Often, the blower motor only works on Auto fan mode, or on full out. It will often also only operate in certain modes, such as only in defrost mode, or panel. I have had several town cars and Grand Marquies of these era's and have had the same problems with 2 of these cars. The only good solution to the issue is to replace the climate control module, which is the panel with all of the switches for the heater controls. If you're really adventurous or cannot find the replacement part, it may be possible to hard wire the fan to a multi resistance switch, but you really got to know what you're doing.
your electric cooling fan is not switching on that is either 1. you fan is bad which you can test jumping a hot wire to the pos side of the fan if it works then exclude it. 2. your fan works on a ground system there is a coolant fan switch in the head that can cause no fans, and the last 3. nfan relay or fuse bad