Occasionally the motor of this vehicle will simply "turn off," just as if the ignition switch had been turned to the "off" position. However, all other electrical accessories continue to work: radio, heater fan, windows, etc. Vehicle has about 135k miles, and I think it may be that some of the contacts in the ignition switch are simply worn out. Sometimes it takes awhile to restart. The engine cranks fine, but either it will start right away or it won't.
Re: 01 Suburban engine, 8.1 liter, abruptly turns off
Its the crank sensor. There was a recall a few years back for 2001 8.1 liter engines crank sensor. Engine would shut off perodically and sometimes would not restart untill cool. Plus it just happened to mine. about a 350 dollar dealer fix.
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Did you try a relearn ?
30 Minute Re-Learn Procedure
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.
Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes ( the vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock?"¢ Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK).
Important: The vehicle learns the Passlock?"¢ Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
Start the engine (the vehicle has now learned the Passlock?"¢ Sensor Data Code and/or password).
With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if needed (history DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles).
First, you need to know that when you are asking for help with your vehicle - ESPECIALLY when you have and engine that will not run, there is some standard information you should include:
> C-2500 Suburban (2-Wheel Drive) or K-2500 Suburban (4-Wheel Drive)? > Which ENGINE is your Suburban equipped with? > Is this an AUTOMATIC or STANDARD transmission?
These things can all make a HUGE difference in the wiring diagrams for your vehicle. There are also some components that are used on one vehicle that do not exist on others. So, to make sure we are working with the correct information for your vehicle, it is necessary to get a FULL description of the vehicle.
With all that said, I also find that the problem description is a little unclear. When you say "No response from the ignition electrical system", do you mean that the starter will not crank the engine? Or do you mean that the starter is cranking the engine, but there is no ignition? Or do you mean something more like nothing works when the ignition switch is turned on?
When it comes to electrical diagnosis, it is very important to know what IS working, as well as what is NOT.
Get back to me with this information and I will see if I can help you.
Neutral Safety Switch ? located at the bottom of the steering column. Mine is tricky, have to pull the shift lever while turning over to get it started. happened after i replaced ignition switch & Neutral Safety Switch
Check for power out of the ignition switch. It sounds like the ignition switch is not engaging on the first try and its taking that second turn to get power from the switch to the ECU and so forth. I would replace the switch and possibly the tumbler if the key comes out while the vehicle is running.
The ignition lock assembly
contains two components: a lock cylinder to deter theft and an
electrical portion that supplies power to electrical components such as
the radio, electric windows, and windshield wipers. The electrical
portion of the ignition switch also provides power to the starter motor to start the engine.
The ignition lock is an anti-theft device that prevents a vehicle from being driven unless the ignition key is in the ignition switch. If the ignition key is not in the ignition switch, it 's impossible to turn the steering wheel.
To replace the ignition switch cylinder lock, the trim panels around
the steering wheel are removed. Then the tamper-proof hardware that
attaches the ignition lock assembly to the steering column is removed.
The ignition lock assembly is removed from the steering column, and the
lock cylinder is replaced. The new ignition lock is reattached to the
steering column, and the trim panels are replaced.make sure you dissconect battery first the 1997 had a recall on the ignition switch dont no if the 1995 had a recall if so they will replace for free
A relay controls the ABS motor. You can trace the wires running to it. The next time you shut the engine off unplug the relay. If that shuts it off get a new relay for the old one will not open its circuit to shut off the motor to the ABS motor
I presume the two leads you mention are:-
a) very heavy main +12V power lead from the battery terminal with approx 3/8" eyelug terminal,
b) less heavy wire that connects battery power to main vehicle fusebox for power distrubution- this cable may incorporate a fusible link.
The two leads (as above) connect onto the same heavy duty 3/8" terminal on the starter motor.
The lower 3/8" power post (closest to the motor housing) connects only to the starter motor and should not normally be tampered with.
There should be one more light duty wire that operates the starter motor engage solenoid .- This is connected back to the ignition switch 'Start' +12V control output.