New water pump,thermostat,belt, rad flushed. All hoses get warm except return line from heater core to rad. Only maintains operating temp for a few seconds when thermostat opens then drops to a quarter
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While it doesn't seem likely, if you've changed, or had the thermostat changed.... I'd say you got a faulty thermostat. I am curious as to what your temperature gauge says the temperature of the engine and coolant is.. If your gauge is showing hot, I can think of two more possibilities... the water pump isn't pumping right... and, if the water pump isn't working right, the problem can be a cracked head or block, which can cause an airlock in the coolant system. Check the coolant or radiator cap.
Thermostat.? if you haven't? Do it first then try it. While the car is running for a while touch the heater hoses that lead to the firewall. if one is cold and one is hot? You have a blocked Heater core. Follow the hoses back to the engine. Unconnect them both. By using a garden hose flush out the heater core do one side and then reverse by doing the other hose Lots of junk will come out so be care ful. Mistake people make is "Flushing the system" That doesn't mean your flushing the heater core. Seeing that you have done everything else it could be the thermostat which you didn't list or the heater core being clogged. When you finished installing the thermostat and flushing the heater core out. Replenish the coolant system . If you have a bleeder on the thermostat housing? use it . loosen it and top off the fluid until you see fluid comeout of the bleeder. The system being air bound would cause no heat..
UNHOOK BOTH HEATER HOSES AND FLUSH OUT HEATER CORE
DO IT FOWARD AND BACK FLUSH / COVER DIST. CAP OR YOU WILL
FILL IT WITH WATER / IF IT CLEARS OUT HOOK HOSES BACK UP AND
BLEED AIR OUT OF SYSTEM / IF IT DOES'T CLEAR OUT HEATER CORE
WILL NEED TO BE REPLACED (DASH COMES OUT TO DO HEATER CORE)
If the hoses ,rad and heater core have been flushed,check,replaced,then you are now down to a coolant flow problem.This meens either the water pump belt is slipping or the punp fins have rotted off and you need a new pump.
Remove and raise upper hose at thermostat end and remove lower rad hose. Fill rad with a hose and watch for flow from bottom rad hose and/ or bottom rad hose connecton.......water should fall though rad easily. Honda rads are cheap.....any restriction....replace rad.
Remove thermostat....fill thermostat housing with hose and watch for water flow at bottom rad hose. Flush good.
Remove heater hoses.......flush back and forth until a good flow is present "With heater control set to hot" if no or poor flow....replace heater core.
Stop leak can plug everything.
Also.......not likely causing over heating....but ....at your mileage,if you do not know if the timing belt has been changed.....CHANGE IT NOW! Water pump is optional at this mileage.
Get a female garden hose adapter from the local hardware store. Disconnect the heater hose from behind the fan pulley and attach the hose connection. Disconnect the other heater hose behind the alternator, aim it towards the ground and flush water through the heater core. This worked on my truck.
Sounds like the radiator line are plugged. What you can try is taking off one rad hose lin 1 Side at radiator and the other at the water pump to engine Run water through lines leaving both lines open should flush all debris away may have to do it a few times. Where this runs thorugh heater core and back out. But do not use alot of presure from the hose.
you should have hot water on all rad. hoses when the motor is running at a norm. temp. the water is not going through the heater core like it should. you have cutoff valve bad low water are a stopped heater.try a hoter thermostat if none of the above are true.