Question about 2005 Chevrolet Impala

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Heater works off and on

Temp hand going up and down heat goes from to cool to hot back and forth

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Id i were you id replace the thermostat. sounds like it could be getting stuck.

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

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Bad thermostat? Heater gets warm, but cools down as thermostat fluxuates between 180 and about 230. It goes back and forth when it is @180 heater blows warm air, but when it goes to 230 etc. the air b


Are you sure there are no air pockets in the cooling system ?
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The rising and falling temp gauge indicates a low water level in the cooling system as hot water is splashed against the sender . Have a pressure test done on the coolant system and find the leaks . Remember to check inside in the heater core as well. Have a compression test done to check for head gasket and cracks

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Heat goes in and out and the temp gauge goes up and down


Your temp sensor has nothing to do with your heater. The temp sensor needs coolant in order to work properly. So first check the coolant level because if it is low your heater will act the way you describe. Once the coolant gets low enough the heater will blow cold. Another possibility is the radiator cap. After the engine has warmed up it expands when it cools down it contracts. As it is contracting if the cap is weak air can be drawn into the system and cause air pockets to form and will cause the same problem

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My 1999 Chevy Malibu runs hot? It started when it overheated. We changed the thermostat, then water pump, then temp sensor gauge and the temp gauge goes high but only when the heater stops blowing hot...


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It actually sounds to me like you're low on coolant. My Jeep leaks coolant and whenever it gets low the temp gauge will go real high and then drop, and the heater doesn't work well. This is because the cooling system of your car is supposed to be a closed system, full of coolant and no air. When coolant leaks out, the space it used to occupy is now occupied by air, which does not transfer heat well. When 'air' is passing through your cooling system, no heat can be transferred from your engine to the heater and radiator, resulting in a hot engine and no heat at the heater. Then when a pocket of water passes through the system, the temperature gauge quickly falls as the water absorbs the heat from the engine. The hot water that cools the engine is where the heater gets it's heat from as well, so when water passes through the heater core, the heater works, but when it's filled with air, it doesn't.

Hot water runs through the heater core regardless of whether or not your thermostat is open or closed. That's why your heater works in the winter even before the engine is at normal operating temperature. The fact that the heater stops working is a good sign that the thermostat is probably not the culprit.

As for the water pump. If the water pump was bad, your temp gauge would go into the red and stay there. Water pumps generally don't work intermittently. Either it's good and ot works, or it's bad and it doesn't.

However, if you are in fact low on water, as I suspect, it means you probably have a leak somewhere. The leak could be in the water pump housing gasket, so depending on where you take it for repairs, they may try to sell you a new water pump anyhow. So just beware of that.

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1998 jeep cherokeesport


Follow these steps:

Check coolant level, then start engine until it is warm and the thermostat opens. You will tell when it does when the needle on your temp gauge goes cold when it reaches around 180-200* and then goes back up. Now turn on your heater full blast and go to the engine compartment. You will see a heater valve located on the passenger side, next to the washer reservoir. It is a black thing with 4 heater hoses connected to it. Feel the hoses. When everything is working correctly it should be like this:

Hose going to waterpump will be hot
Hose going to (I think the thermostat housing) will be hot
2 Hoses going to heater core (mounted behind firewall) will be hot

1. If only 1 heater core hose is hot, heater core is clogged--
UNCLOG: remove 2 hoses going to heater core when engine is cool, hook water hose end to one of the sides and flush out gunk from heater core. Reconnect hose and you should be good.

2. If neither hose core hose is hot, heater control valve is bad or vacuum is bad--
Test Vacuum: remove vacuum line from heater control valve, you should feel the vacuum **** on it when pressed to your cheek and the heater control valve actuator should move when you unhook the vacuum line. If you have a good vacuum, it's probable the valve available at autozone part # 5941 for around $21.

To get heat while you wait to replace part, unhook silver arm on heater control valve that is hooked to the plunger. This will give you heat all of the time, but it is controlled by the bottom hot/cold switch on your heater control unit so you won't get hot in the cab. It will just circulate heat through the core.




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