Question about 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee, hear air bubbling out when I bleed the brakes and have a soft, spongy pedal, replaced the master cylinder, the vaccuum booster, pads, and rotors, what am I missing???

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First, inspect all lines and fittings for seepage. If fluid is getting out anywhere, air is entering system as well. Fill the master cylinder and bleed it first. Make sure that when bleeding someone is holding pedal down until after you have closed each bleeder screw.(applies to all bleeders). Bleed the right rear, then l/r, r/f then l/f. While doing this keep checking master to make sure it does not run dry at any point. Make sure that at each wheel there is no more air coming out before you continue on to next one. Sometimes if there is an excessive amount of air, it's good to go around to each wheel twice.(use a small box wrench on bleeders if possible so you can actually see what's coming out.(Another way of doing this is to use a small section of plastic tubing like fish tank air hose, and attach it to end of bleeder (sometimes if hose is too small, it can be warmed in hot water so it expands over nipple.) put the free end in a glass jar with some fluid in it, keeping the hose in the fluid to prevent air from entering, using this method abslolutely prevents air from getting into system while bleeding)
Other causes of low pedal are worn rotors or drums and improperly adjusted rear brakes. If you have ABS, all of this applies but there may be a problem with abs system (usually will turn on abs warning light)
good luck

Posted on Feb 22, 2009

  • karkurious Sep 05, 2011

    did you ever solve this problem? we are having the same after chagning pads and have tried everything. Thanks

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1997 mercury sable gs 3.0l replaced master brake, still having brake pedal feeling spongy and slowly traveling down. i bench bled master brake and bled brake right rear left rear right then front.


If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines.

For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly.
Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.

Oct 09, 2016 | 1997 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

I have a 1997 jeep grand cherokee. I have no


got ABS
no, then bleed them.
read the manual yet the fsm.?
or any book on brakes?
click ZJ
click brakes
read
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

step by step
and skipping the MC bench bleed, will make this 100x harder.

Oct 04, 2014 | 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

1990 jeep wrangler bleeding breaks


Hi there:
I suggest to check this procedure, when the hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever a fluid line has been disconnected because air gets into the system.

A leak in the system may sometimes be indicated by a spongy brake pedal. Air trapped in the system is compressible and does not permit the pressure applied to the brake pedal to be transmitted solidly through the brakes. The system must be absolutely free from air at all times. If the master cylinder has been overhauled or a new cylinder has been installed, bleed the cylinder on a bench before installation. When bleeding brakes, bleed at the wheel most distant from the master cylinder first, the next most distant second, and so on. During the bleeding operation the master cylinder must be kept at least 3 / 4 full of brake fluid.


The ABS bleeding procedure is different from the conventional method. It consists of the following three steps:
Step 1: Conventional manual brake bleed.
Step 2: Bleeding the system using the DRB scan tool.
Step 3: An additional conventional manual brake bleed.

The recommended ABS bleeding procedure is as follows:
  1. To bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all dirt from around the master cylinder filler cap. Remove the filler cap and fill the master cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid to the lower edge of the filler neck.
  2. Bleed the master cylinder first. Have a helper operate the brake pedal while bleeding each master cylinder fluid outlet line. Do not allow the master cylinder to to run out of fluid,as this will allow additional air to be drawn into the cylinder.
  3. Bleed the brake system in the following sequence:
    1. Master cylinder
    2. HCU valve body (at fluid lines)
    3. Right rear wheel
    4. Left rear wheel
    5. Right front wheel
    6. Left front wheel
  4. Clean off the bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders. Attach the bleeder hose to the right rear wheel cylinder bleeder screw and place the end of the tube in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
  5. Open the bleeder valve 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn.
  6. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly and allow it to return. Continue this pumping action to force any air out of the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
  7. Check the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and replenish as necessary.
  8. After the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder has been completed, fill the master cylinder reservoir and replace the filler plug.

Do not reuse the fluid which has been removed from the lines through the bleeding process because it contains air bubbles and dirt.


  1. Perform the "Bleed Brake'' procedure with the DRB II scan tool. This procedure is described in the DRB II software information and diagnostic guide.
    1. Attach the DRB II scan tool to the diagnostic connector.
    2. Run the Bleed Brake procedure as described in the DRB II tester guide.
  2. Repeat the conventional bleeding procedure as previously outlined.
  3. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.
  4. Check the brake operation.


Hope this helps.

Apr 21, 2013 | Jeep Wrangler Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Brake pedal spongy after replacing master cylinder and bleeding the syster


There is still air, presuming all brakes are in good shape and adjusted correctly. One issue is master cylinder PRE BLEEDING. If you do not pre bleed the cylinder, you may never get all of the air out. Parts stores sell a kit that has flexible hoses that connect to the brake line connections and submerge the other ends in the MC reservoir, bleed until no bubbles and from that point DO NOT let the fluid get low in the MC, or start over again.
Doc

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2 Answers

I just replaced brakes,front and rear,on a 1997 jeep grand cherokee. The rear brake calipers had to be replaced and the parking brakes were shot so I did not reinstall. I bled brakes all around and have a...


Sound like you either have air in the system or a leak. Make sure all the connections are tight on the new calipers. clean off all the connections and blessed screws with brake cleaner. Then have your partner press on the brake pedal while you look for leaks. Reblead the entire system again starting at the right rear, than the left rear, than the right front, and finally the left front. Continue bleeding at each wheel until no air comes out. make sure you don,t let the master cylinder go dry. It will take several pedal pumps for the caliper pistons to take up the gap in between the pads and rotors. I assume you have a helper pushing on the brake pedal during the bedding process?

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3 Answers

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did u bleed the brakes ? there could be an air bubble causing blockage

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1 Answer

The clutch will not disengage i have replaced the slave cylender but it will not turn over


Did you bleed the system after replacing the slave cylinder? The air has to be bled from the line. DOT 3 brake fluid should be in the clutch master cylinder. Bleed it till all the air bubbles are out.

If it is not engaging the starter check that the switch on the clutch pedal is being contacted when the clutch pedal is depressed.

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2 Answers

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