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The spindle is what holds the front tires on. The axle is what holds the rear tires on. To remove the spindle, you have to remove the brake caliper first the remove the ball joint nuts. hit the spindle were the ball joints go in. The shock will release the ball joints. To remove the axles, you have to remove the differential plate, spin the differential until you see the bolt that locks the center pin in. remove both. push in the axle and remove the C clip. pull the axle out.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Hold the hex on the attaching link stud while breaking the nut loose. The attaching link does not have to be removed from the strut.
Caliper assembly and rotor from the hub, if equipped with rear disc brakes
Brake flex hose from the support bracket and wheel cylinder, if equipped with rear drum brakes. Plug the brake flex hose to prevent system contamination. Do not allow the rear caliper to hang by the brake hose. Support the caliper off of the frame with a strong piece of wire.
Speed sensor cable routing bracket and tube, if equipped with Anti-lock Brake System (ABS)
Lateral links to the rear spindle assembly bolts
Rear strut assembly-to-stabilizer bar attaching link at the stabilizer bar
Remove the rear spindle-to-strut assembly pinch bolt. Install a center punch in the hole on the spindle and tap the punch into the hole until jammed. This will spread the spindle casting allowing it to be removed from the strut.
Using a hammer, tap on the top surface of the spindle, driving the spindle down and off the end of the strut assembly. Let the spindle and assembled components hang from the trailing arm while the strut is being serviced.
From inside the trunk of the vehicle, remove the 3 upper strut mounting bolts and remove the strut from the vehicle.
Disassemble the strut by performing the following procedure:
Service of the coil spring requires the use of a coil spring compressor tool. It is required that 5 coils be captured within the jaws of the compressor tool.
Remove wheel, brake caliper bolts, set brake caliper aside. Remove axle nut and upper/lower ball joint securing nuts. Remove nut on outer steering control arm. (A hammer may be necessary to break the seal for the above mentioned items. Hit the spindle close to where the connections are and they should 'pop' free. You may find it necessary to remove the axle bearing. If this is the case, there are three(3), mounting bolts on the back side of the spindle that need to be removed first. With all of this out of the way, use a prybar to dislodge the axle from the transmission in an outward fashion. Reverse procedure to install.
up your Dodge Ram. Block the wheels to keep it from rolling as you
work. Get started by removing the first tire and wheel assembly. Remove
the hub extension and the brake caliper as well as the caliper adapter.
Remove the grease cap, cotter pin, nut lock, nut, washer and
outer wheel bearing. Now, pull the old rotor off of the spindle. Clean
the area with a damp cloth to remove any debris. Pack the wheel bearings
Install the new rotor and hub onto the spindle. Replace the
outer wheel bearing, washer, and then the retaining nut. Torque the nut
to 30 to 40 ft. lbs. while rotating the hub and rotor.
Then tighten the nut and install the nut lock and a new cotter pin.
Clean the grease cap and then coat it with new wheel bearing
grease and replace the cap. Put the caliper adapter back into place and
then tighten the two mounting bolts with a torque wrench. Install the
wheel and tire assembly.
Repeat this process for each additional rotor and then lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts and test drive your Dodge Ram to make sure that the installation was successful.
The pads are mounted to the caliper. The caliper is bolted to the spindle bracket. There is brake hardware which should be replaced with the pads.
Look behind the wheel at the backside of the spindle bracket. The spindle bracket is on the verticle shaft with coils on one end and an A shaped bracket on the other. There are usually 2 bolts that may have normal bolt ends or "Allen" bit fittings.
When you buy the brake hardware you can check for the proper socket for the mounting bolt. You unbolt the caliper, use a rope or wire to suspend it under the frame without disconnecting the brake line.
The pads come off with the hardware. You need to compress the caliper pistons to make the new pads fit. Use a C clamp and an old pad to squeeze the pistons back into the caliper. Remove the Master Cylinder cover so fluid can return.
Then use a bonding chemical like "brake quiet" to mount the rear pad to the caliper piston. Mount outside pad to caliper and then slide caliper over the rotor on the spindle bracket. Lube the slides of the new brake hardware and bolt into place.
You should have the rotors checked for thickness and whether they are warpped before you put on the new pads.
Did you try to thread it back in with caliper out of the way? Sometimes the caliper is just a hair out of it's proper position, and will cause that, which is probably a good thing, so it doesn't get re-assembled incorrectly. If one of the bolts will thread in without caliper on, I'd double check my assembly position, otherwise use good bolt to determine whether threads on spindle are bad, or on bolt that came out. You may need to run a tap through it, or a thread chaser.