Question about 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
I have a 2002 ford explorer sport trac I get into the car and start driving down the road, the ABS light starts flashing. so I go back home. I turn the truck off, then I try to turn it back on, nothing, doesn't even crank, so I take the keys out, wait literally like ten seconds and try again and it turns on like new. Also when I turn off the truck it made a weird noise, and the only; way I know how to describe the noise it like when you have a stereo on and you pull the plug out of the wall and it makes like a ppuhh noise. not loud but noticable.
Are you absolutely sure it is the ABS light that is flashing?
Also, to confirm descriptions, when you state that when you try to turn it back on you get "nothing, doesn't even crank" are you saying there is no click for the starter relay, no starter engagement, and the engine doesn't spin over?
Your description of the noise when you turn the truck off sounds a bit like the sound a muffled backfire might make. Maybe the truck is running really right, but that wouldn't explain the ABS light flashing. It could explain the Check Engine Light (CEL) flashing as running rich enough to backfire would be an emissions issue which would cause a flashing CEL.
Posted on May 02, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Yes I agree it's the 'smart key'. Normally when you buy an explorer new, you will get 3 keys. 1 of the keys is a valet key.
If you were to copy another key that has a smart chip (transponder) in it, the new key won't work until you 'program' the third (new) key. To program it you need the original 2 keys that work.
The only other thing could be that there was a remote start in the vehicle and there could be something wrong with the module that bypasses the transponder. If there is a remote start in the vehicle you might be lucky to some extent if it still works.
If you move the shifter hard and it worked before, like you said, there could also be damage to the wires that goto the key cylinder, the reciever for the transponder in the key. Try having someone hold the key in start and use the tilt wheel, that too will tell you theres damaged wires if it starts.
Unfortunately you probably will have to bring the vehicle to a ford dealer to get additional keys programmed or the damaged part replaced.
It shouldn't cost too, too much. Just be glad you don't have a Saab, replacement key's are $145 Ea!
If your inclined, you can dissassemble the plastic shroud around the steering column and look for damaged wires coming from the black ring around the key down the the connector under the dash.
Posted on Jul 10, 2008
Some times the wheel speed sensor will go out on either side. This will make the A.B.S. light come on. But I dont see why the service engine light would come on. I would segest changing all wheel speed sensors and take it for a drive. The A.B.S. light should go out. If the service engine light dose not go out your local auto parts stors can run a diagnostics test to tell you what the light is on for.
Please contact me if your problem presists.
Posted on Feb 02, 2009
The clicking is the Starter Solonoid not getting enough CCAs from the battery to start it.
While running - the alternator should be able to charge the system to 14.4V.
11 volts you are experiencing tells me your alternator is faulty.
Your dash and other items were turning off/on while driving because the voltage probably dipped below 8.4v.
Your vehicle runs off the alternator power once started. The battery is only there to get the engine spinning initially.
A backyard mechanic's way to test the alternator is to start the vehicle - then remove the positive wire on the battery (coming from the alternator).
** If the vehicle stays running - the battery is problematic - probably a dead cell - have it LOAD tested at a local parts shop for free.
** If the vehicle dies shortly after removing the + battery wire - the alternator is failing - and replacement is necessary.
Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
Posted on May 21, 2009
SOURCE: ABS fuse locations
There are a total of 5 fuses for brake and abs functions 3 in central fuse box on the drivers side inside truck fuse #9 - 7.5 amp fuse #10 - 10 amp and fuse #11 - 7.5 amp then there are 2 big fuses under the hood in the main battery fuse box next to the battery fuse # 6 - 50 amp and fuse # 28 - 30 amp
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
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