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Re: grease leaking from left rear wheel, 65 Volkswagon...
Hi, if your brakes are contaminated with oil they need to be replaced along with a new new and cotter, make sure you clean all the oil from the back plate before re assembly, hope this helps, thanks for useong fixya
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Call Kia with your VIN to make sure yours wasn't affected by the recall. You may be able to have that rear bearing replaced for free at Kia.
HUBCAP & OUTER BEARING REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE: 1. Remove the two (2) cross-tip locating screws on the brake drum.
2. Remove the brake drum.
3. Remove cotter pin and cover set.
4. Remove nut, claw washer, outer bearing and hub assembly.
5. Inspect inner bearing area in both hubs for any sign of moisture, corrosion, grease discoloration or contamination. If "yes" discard entire hub and replace with new assembly. If "no" proceed with outer bearing replacement below: 6. Carefully remove the outer bearing race from the hub. If the hub assembly is damaged then replace the hub assembly as a complete unit. (If inner seal is damaged while removing the outer race replace with new seal.)
7. Clean all contaminated grease from outer bearing cavity of the hub.
8. Install a new outer race into the hub using an appropriate race installation tool.
9. Apply grease MS511-33 WBG2 or equivalent to the hub assembly and the new bearing(s) especially to the shaded areas.
10. Install hub assembly, new pre-greased outer bearing and new claw washer on spindle. (Or alternatively, install entire new hub assembly, as supplied). Ensure bearings are properly seated then tighten hub/spindle nut, torque nut to 20-25 lb-ft (27-33 Nm.) Verify hub spins freely without signs of binding or excessive play.
11. Install new cover set and cotter pin; never reuse the old cotter pin.
12. Install new hub cap with Loctite # 5910(TM) or equivalent sealant to prevent moisture intrusion.
13. Install the rear brake drum using tapered locating screws.
14. Install rear wheels and torque lug nuts to proper specification. (65-79 lb-ft) (88-108 Nm, 9-11 kgm)
If it is an older car, the bearings could be suspect. Another area you might check is the rear brakes. If the rear brakes are "drum" brakes, its possible one of the shoes could be dragging against the inside of the drum. If they are disk brakes, ensure all retainers are in place....that is....a "wire bail" type arrangement that hold the pads off of the rotor when the brakes are not applied. If your not sure where certain parts should be located, you might try looking at the opposite wheel to see what is in place. Now, to check the bearing ( on the rear wheels) Pull the tire off, pop off the cap (dust cover) from the center hub. You will see a castle nut with a cotter pin running through it. Sraighten the cotter pin with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Pull the pin out. remove the retainer cover off the nut. break the nut loose ( usually a 1 1/8- to 11/4 inch....metric is around 28-34 MM) socket. You'll need a half inch ratchet or breaker bar.....and usually with a cheater bar in addition to that. Once the nut is off, remove the washer behind that (sometimes at this point the bearing will simply fall out) sometimes it needs a little rap with a hammer. Upon inspection, bearing should be packed full of axle grease. You'll know, because it some very gooey stuff. In any case, wipe off grease and dirt from bearing. Inspect by holding the inside race (inner ring) by sticking two or three fingers through the center. Now spin the outside part of the bearing. It should feel very smooth as it rotates. If its rough, or loose internally (wobbly) its probably bad. Keep in mind....bearings don't wear out....they just run out grease. If its damaged, its because it wasn't serviced in time. If it looks ok, repack the bearing. Do this by putting a wad of grease in the palm of your hand. With the other hand, take the bearing...widest side of the bearing and push it into the palm of your hand, forcing grease into the inside. rotate around and around as you force grease into it until it is fully packed (no more grease will go in). Installation is the reverse of the removal. Be sure the bearing, spindle, and all parts are completely dirt free before going back together. You might soak the bearing in brake cleaner before re-greasing. Do not handle parts cleaner without rubber gloves and eye protection. It is very easy to splash cleaner into your eyes (trust me). Good luck....
Yes, Undo the 32mm nut, first.
And, don't get the bearings dirty with dust from the brake drums, or , if you do, replace the inner and outer bearings with new greased up ones.REAR DRUM BRAKES Brake Drums REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CAUTION Brake linings contain asbestos. Asbestos is a known cancer-causing agent. When working on brakes, remember that the dust which accumulates on the brake parts and/or in the drum contains asbestos. Always wear a protective face covering, such as a painter's mask, when working on the brakes. NEVER blow the dust from the brakes or drum.
Raise the vehicle and support safely.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
On vehicles without rear bearing hub, remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut lock, wheel bearing nut and washer from the spindle. Remove the outer wheel bearing. Remove the drum with the inner wheel bearing from the spindle. If the drum is difficult to remove, remove the plug from the rear of the backing plate and push the self adjuster lever away from the star wheel. Rotate the star wheel to retract the shoes. Remove the grease seal.
If equipped with a rear bearing hub, remove the drum by removing the retainer screws from the drum and pulling the drum from the hub assembly. If the drum is difficult to remove, remove the plug from the rear of the backing plate and push the self adjuster lever away from the star wheel. Rotate the star wheel to retract the shoes.
On vehicles equipped without rear bearing hub, lubricate and install the inner wheel bearing. Install a new grease seal. Install the drum to the spindle. Lubricate and install the outer wheel bearing, washer and nut. Adjust the bearing preload following the procedure outlined in the "Rear Wheel Bearing'' of this section. When the bearing preload is properly set, install the nut lock and a new cotter pin. Install the grease cap.
On vehicles with rear bearing hub, install the brake drum to the hub assembly and install the retaining screws.
Install the wheel and tire assembly. Adjust the rear brakes as required.
Apply the brakes until a firm pedal is obtained, prior to moving the vehicle.
Sodium based grease is not compatible with lithium based grease. Do not lubricate the wheel bearings without first thoroughly cleaning all old grease from the bearing. Use of incompatible bearing lubricants could result in premature lubricant breakdown.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the wheels.
Remove the brake drum or brake disc.
Remove the hub grease cap.
Remove the cotter pin retainer, adjusting nut and flatwasher from the rear wheel spindle. Discard the cotter pin.
Remove the outer bearing and cone assembly.
Remove the rear hub from rear wheel spindle.
Using Seal Remover (TOOL-1175-AC) or equivalent, remove and discard the oil seal.
Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly.
Clean the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent. Inspect the bearing cups for scratches, pits, excessive wear and other damage. If the bearing cups are worn or damaged, remove them using a Bearing Cup Puller (T77F-1102A) or equivalent.
Throughly clean old grease from the surrounding surfaces. If a new hub assembly is being installed, remove the protective coating using degreaser.
If the inner or outer bearing cups were removed, install replacement cups using Bearing Cup Replacer (T73-1202-A) or equivalent. Seat the cups properly in the hub.
If a bearing packer is not available, work as much grease as possible between the rollers and cages. Grease the cone surfaces.
Using a bearing packer, pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with a premium bearing grease.
Place inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup. A light film of grease should be included between the lips of the new grease retainer.
Install the retainer with Hub Seal Replacer (T83T-1175-B) or equivalent. Be sure the retainer is properly seated.
Keep the hub centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the retainer and spindle threads.
Install the hub assembly on the spindle.
Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly on the spindle.
Install the flat washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 18-23 ft. lbs. (24-31 Nm) while rotating the hub to set the end-play. Back off the nut and retighten to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Support the front end.
Remove the wheel cover, if equipped.
Remove the grease cap.
Check the wheel bearings for sufficient grease.
Remove the cotter pin and retaining washer. Back off the spindle nut. Discard the cotter pin.
Adjust the wheel bearings as follows:
Tighten the spindle nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) while rotating the brake disc clockwise to seat the wheel bearings.
Back off the nut 2 full turns.
While rotating the disc counterclockwise, tighten the nut to 17-24 ft. lbs. (23-34 Nm).
Back off the spindle nut about 1 / 2 turn.
Tighten the spindle nut to 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
Install the retaining washer so the castellations are aligned with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin.
Check the wheel and tire assembly for proper rotation, then install the grease cap. If the wheel still does not rotate properly, inspect and clean or replace the wheel bearings and cups.
Install the wheel cover, if equipped.
Lower the vehicle.
Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.
To check the wheel bearing adjustment, raise the front of the vehicle. Grasp the tire at the sides, and alternately push inward and pull outward on the tire. If any looseness is felt, adjust the front wheel bearings as follows.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Remove the hub cap from the hub.
Remove the cotter pin and the castellated nut.
While rotating the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) to seat the bearings.
Back off the adjusting nut until loose (120-180 degrees).
While rotating the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut to 18 inch lbs. (2Nm). Torque required to rotate the hub should be 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
Install the castellated nut and insert a new cotter pin.
don't have topaz. maybe escort will help guide you.
Section 04-02: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Rear
1996 Escort, Tracer Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
NOTE: Wheel bearings are not serviceable and should therefore be replaced as an assembly with the wheel hub (1104).
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the hub grease cap (1131) from the wheel hub.
If equipped with disc brakes, remove the rear disc brake caliper (2552) and rear disc brake rotor (2C026). Refer to Section 06-04 for the removal procedure.
If equipped with drum brakes, remove the two brake drum screws and the brake drum (1126).
Unstake the rear axle wheel hub retainer (4B477) securing the wheel hub to the rear wheel spindle (4A013). Remove and discard the rear axle wheel hub retainer.
Remove the wheel and take off your brake caliper. Once you have the wheel off, you will see a dust cap in the center of the wheel. Remove the dust cap by using a pair of channel locks, don't use something to pry it loose as this will cause it to leak grease later. Once you have the dust cap off you will see inside a castle nut held in place with a cotter pin. Remove the pin and unscrew the nut. This will allow the rotor and bearing to come out. Replace the bearing with the new one using a high temp grease to grease them.... IMPORTANT: when you grease the new bearings make sure to grease them thoroughly. Put a glob of grease in the palm of your hand and slowly dab the sides of the new bearings in the grease (this will allow the bearings to be greased on the inside).... Put back together as you found it. NOTE: When tightening the castle nut, tighten it down tight and then release it a quarter turn back before before inserting the pin to hold it back in place. Good luck! Let me know how it goes.
Remove the wheel. Remove the ABS speed sensor if so equipped.
Unclamp the brake hose from the shock absorber, but do not disconnect the line.
Remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way on a piece of stiff wire. Do not disconnect the brake line; do not allow the caliper to hang by the hose.
Remove the brake disc.
Place a dial indicator near the center of the axle hub, and check the backlash in the bearing shaft direction. Maximum is 0.0020 inch (0.05mm). If the backlash exceeds the maximum, replace the bearing.
Usiung a dial; indicator, check the deviation at the surface of the axle hub outside the hub bolt. Maximum is 0.0028 inch (0.07mm). If the deviation exceeds the maximum, replace the axle hub.
Install the disc and caliper. Tighten to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
Remove the cotter pin and install the wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Remove the lock nut cap. While depressing the brake pedal, remove the center axle nut.
Raise and support the vehicle again and remove the wheel, caliper and disc.
Loosen the 2 nuts on the lower side of the shock absorber. Do not remove the 2 nuts and bolts.
Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end.
Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle using a joint separator or equivalent.
Remove the bolt and 2 nuts holding the bottom of the ball joint to the control arm and separate the arm from the knuckle.
Remove the 2 nuts from the steering knuckle. Place a protective cover or shield over the CV boot on the driveshaft.
Using a plastic mallet, tap the driveshaft free of the hub assembly.
Remove the bolts and remove the axle hub assembly.
Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws.
Remove the dust deflector. Loosen the nut holding the ball joint to the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator tool or equivalent to loosen and remove the joint
Use a slide hammer/extractor to remove the outer oil seal.
Remove the snapring.
Using a hub puller and pilot tools or equivalents, pull the axle hub from the knuckle.
Remove the brake splash shield (3 bolts).
Use a split plate bearing remover, puller pilot and a shop press, remove the inner bearing race from the hub.
Remove the inner oil seal with the same tools used to remove the outer seal.
Place the inner race in the bearing. Support the knuckle and use an axle hub remover with a plastic mallet to drive out the bearing.
Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing; it cannot be repacked. If the bearing is damaged or noisy, it must be replaced.
Press a new bearing race into the steering knuckle using a bearing driver of the correct size.
Place a new bearing inner race on the hub bearing.
Insert the side lip of a new oil seal into the seal installer and drive the oil seal into the steering knuckle.
Apply multi-purpose grease to the oil seal lip.
Apply sealer to the brake splash shield and install the shield.
Use a hub installer to press the hub into the steering knuckle.
Install a new snapring into the hub.
Using a seal installer of the correct size, install a new outer oil seal into the steering knuckle.
Apply multi-purpose grease to the seal surfaces which will contact the driveshaft.
Support the knuckle and drive in a new dust deflector.
Install the ball joint into the knuckle and tighten the nut to 105 ft. lbs. (142). Install NEW cotter pin.
Temporarily install the hub assembly to the lower control arm and fit the driveaxle into the hub.
Install the knuckle to strut bolts, then attach the tie rod end to the knuckle.
Tighten the strut bracket nuts to 203 ft. lbs. (275 Nm) and tighten the tie rod end nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Install the NEW cotter pin.
Connect the ball joint to the lower control arm and tighten the nuts to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).
Install the brake disc.
Attach the brake caliper to the knuckle and tighten the bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
Install the center nut and washer on the drive axle.
Install the ABS speed sensor if so equipped. Install the wheel
Lower the car to the ground.
Tighten the wheel nuts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Tighten the hub nut while depressing the brake pedal to 137 ft. lbs. (186 Nm) on 1988-91 models and 152 ft. lbs. (206 Nm) on 1992-97 models. Install the cap and cotter pin.
Remove the protective cover from the CV boot. Check front wheel alignment