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what does FIT? mean.
prefect fit, no.
safely fit. no.
can I make it fit , with my welder and metal fab tools, sure.
the 95 is a gen 2 car
the 2002 is generation 5 car, they are radially different bodies
and the 95 is narrow body, with G16 engine.
the 2002 is wide body and mine is 2.5l v6,
You want a gas sucking V6 , sipping from that dinky 1.6L tank?
my v6 gets 19mpg , best of best.
my 96 gets 28mpg, worlds apart..
not only that the fuel fittings are not the same.
the old 95 uses banjo's
the 95 pump only fits a 95 tank
the 2002 needs a bigger pump. and has different pressure. spec. and flows. and different fittings.
not to mention wrong sender, and all the EVAP and other parts
Here is what my Haynes Diesel Engine Repair Manual says for a noticeable lack of power, which is what you are describing.
1. Blocked air intake
2.Incorrectly adjusted timing
3.Blocked or damaged exhaust system
4.Obstruction in fuel filter
5.Blocked fuel tank vacuum vent in fuel cap
6.Insufficient fuel supply from tank to injector pump
7.Obstruction in fuel tank filter
8. Pinched or restricted fuel return line
9. Incorrect or contaminated fuel
10.External compression leaks ( glow plugs or injectors)
11. Obstruction in injector nozzles
This book has an excellent diagnosis and repair section for your engine. It's Haynes part #10330 and costs about $20. Hope this helps.
Release the fuel system pressure using the recommended procedure.
Remove the fuel pump unit through the access panel in the floor of the trunk. Drain the fuel tank into a portable fuel siphoning container through the opening in the fuel tank where the fuel pump is mounted.
Prior to disconnecting fuel lines, wrap a shop rag around the connections to absorb any fuel spillage due to residual pressure in the lines.
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove both rear tires.
Remove the exhaust pipe rubber insulators off the mounting studs of the rear of the vehicle and in front of the fuel tank.
Using grease pencil or paint marker, place alignment marks on the fuel filler hose, filler tube, vent hose and vent tube.
Remove the rear splash shield from the right rear wheel well.
Disconnect the fuel filler hose and the vent hose near the fuel filter.
Disconnect both ends of the sway bar from the stabilizer links. Use a grease pencil or paint marker to outline the position of the crossmember ends on the frame rail.
Remove the crossmember mounting bolts and pull the crossmember down until it stops.
Place a transmission jack under the fuel tank to support its weight.
The sway bar bracket bolts must be replaced after loosening or removal. Only use original equipment bolts as replacement.
Remove the sway bar mounting bracket, heat shield and fuel tank strap. To prevent the sway bar from falling down, install sway bar mounting bracket with the bolts finger-tight only.
Carefully and slowly lower the front of the fuel tank. Slide the tank away from the crossmember while pushing the filler vent and fill tube over the crossmember. Detach any remaining fuel or electrical connections. Lower the fuel tank.
Position the tank on the transmission jack or other suitable lift, with the shield and the tank strap in place. Raise the tank over the crossmember and place it in the proper position. Be sure that the electrical connector, pressure relief/rollover valve hose, fuel supply and return lines are accessible through the opening in the trunk. Check to be sure that nothing is pinched or kinked in any way.
Push the vent and the filler tube over the crossmember. Rotate the sway bar into position and install the sway bar brackets.
Raise the tank into place and position the sway bar mounting bracket and the tank straps in place. Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
Raise the crossmember into position and align with the locating marks made during removal. Install bolts and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
Reconnect the filler tube and vent tube making sure to align with the marks made during removal.
Connect the sway bar ends to the link arms and tighten sway bar mounting nuts to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
Install the exhaust onto the hangers. Install the rear splash shield in the right rear wheel well.
Install the rear wheels and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts, in a star pattern sequence, to 95-100 ft. lbs. (129-135 Nm).
Lower the vehicle.
Install the fuel pump module.
Connect the fuel supply, return and vent tubes. After installation of the quick-connect fittings, check for proper connection by pulling back on the quick-connect fitting. The tube should lock in place. If the connection is not complete, make sure the black plastic ring is not causing the locking retainer to jam in the release position.
Install the fuel pump access cover and gasket. Tighten the fasteners and install the trunk liner.
Install the filler cap and reconnect the negative battery cable.
With the ignition in the ON position, access the DRB III ASD Fuel System Test to pressurize the fuel system. Check for leaks.
Check the rear wheel alignment and adjust, if necessary.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
Install or connect the following:
The fuel pump strainer must be in a horizontal position and must
not block the float arm travel.
Fuel pump with new strainer onto the sending unit
New O-ring in the tank opening groove
New O-ring on the fuel sender feed tube
Fold the strainer over itself and slowly position the sending
assembly in the tank so the strainer is not damaged or trapped by the
Fuel tank. Torque the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
Fuel filler cap
Negative battery cable
Turn the ignition switch to the
position for 2 seconds,
for 10 seconds, then back to the
position. Check for fuel leaks.
Hope this help (remember rated and comment this), good luck.
Drain the fuel tank from the filler neck as much as possible.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Loosen the clamp and remove the filler hose from the fuel tank.
Disconnect the fuel and EVAP quick-connect fittings at the fuel tank.
Remove the exhaust pipe hangers and allow the exhaust system to drop slightly.
Separate the EVAP fresh air line at the splice.
Remove the fuel tank shield.
Support the fuel tank with a suitable jack.
Remove the two bolts securing the fuel tank straps.
Lower the fuel tank from the vehicle.
Disconnect the electrical connectors from the fuel pump assembly.
Clean the fuel pipe connections with compressed air to prevent contamination during removal.
Disconnect the quick-connect fittings at the fuel sender assembly.
Remove the fuel sender retaining ring and remove the fuel sender assembly. The modular fuel sender assembly will spring-up when the snap ring is removed.
To Install: CAUTION Be careful not to fold or twist the fuel inlet strainer when installing the fuel sender assembly, this will restrict fuel flow. Also, make sure the float arm is able to move freely.
Place a new fuel sender assembly seal on the tank and install the fuel sender assembly.
Holding the fuel sender in place and install the retaining ring.
Connect the quick-connect fittings at the fuel sender assembly.
Connect the electrical connectors.
Place the fuel tank on a suitable jack and raise it in position under the vehicle.
Install the fuel tank strap bolts. Tighten the bolts to 35 lb ft (48 Nm).
Install the fuel tank shield.
Connect the fuel and EVAP quick-connect fittings at the fuel tank.
Connect the EVAP fresh air hose at the splice.
Install the fuel tank filler hose to the fuel tank.
Raise the exhaust and install the exhaust pipe hangers.
Lower the vehicle.
Add fuel and install the fuel filler pipe cap.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Perform the following to pressurize the fuel system;